rturbo 930

Yes, that exact same thing happened to me. My car had been on jackstands for a while, and one day I noticed one of the struts hanging lower. That's what it was.

First thing's first, I'm not a suspension expert, and my car doesn't drive, so I have no direct experience with Z suspension. But I've been around here a while, so here's my take. Your springs rates translate to 280lb/in and 224 lb/in. John C on HybridZ has said that anything over 300lb/in is pointless since at that point, the chassis starts flexing, at least a 240Z. Most people who have put together coilovers seem to go with something like 225/250 or 200/225, or something to that effect, not 280, but apparently all the mainstream coilover manufacturers seem to think that this combo of 4k/5k is good, I couldn't tell you why. Shocks can also make a difference. My E30 has stiff suspension (310 front, 570 rear, IIRC), and I started out with Bilstein gas shocks, and recently switched to adjustable Konis. There was a noticeable difference in ride quality, and I haven't even messed with the settings on the Konis yet to see if I could improve it further. I have no idea what quality shocks you have there, but that could have something to do with it. I'm not sure if BC coilovers are really all that good, lots of people use them and like them, but I'm skeptical of their quality. Lastly, it could just be you. I don't know what you were expecting it to ride like, but obviously it isn't going to ride anything like it did stock. You may have been expecting something that just wasn't realistic.

Let's just say it looked better in the pictures, or even from 20ft. It doesn't have a lot of rust, but it does have a little rust in a good number of places, some of them very tricky to repair, such as the roof/quarter joint, and since the car isn't numbers matching or complete, it's not a resto candidate either. If someone wanted to put in the effort to fix the rust, and didn't mind it not being perfect when done, they could make a decent hot rod out of it, or maybe a race car. IMO that's all it's good for though. I'll offer it up before I think about scrapping it, but I want to weigh the bare shell against my 280Z, so I'm not done with it yet.

I hate to say it since I hate to see any Z destroyed, but that's a parts car. My early '71, which IMO is not worth fixing, is many times more solid than that car. And with a VIN of 13xxx, I'm surprised it's titled as a '70, and not a '71.

Tabco rockers are poor quality, and if you hold one up to a light, looking at the front inside of the rocker, you might be able to see through it at the step down where the rocker meets the front fender. You'll need to weld it up if it is.

You didn't take that dent out first? lol. Make sure the rockers aren't split at the crease where the lower fender meets the rocker.

Yes, you should use stock gauge, which is probably 20 for that piece. What are you using now? I find 20 is pretty easy to work with, 18 is a fair bit more difficult. It doesn't like to bend like 20 does, which I can basically adjust with just my hands. I'm not sure what specifically you're having trouble with, but maybe look into a shrinker/stretcher.

Are you ****ing kidding me? I test fit the rocker I got years ago, no doors or fender mind you, and you're telling me it has even MORE problems than I thought? WTF is the point of making them at all if they're such poor quality? Ugh. Someone needs to come up with some competition for them.

Tabco panels are a mixed bag, and will need a little bit of work at a minimum, or at the worst, they're basically junk (rear lower quarter corners). The rockers seem to have an issue with the step down (for lack of a better term) where the rocker meets the fender tends to have a split in it that you'll need to weld up.

Welcome! Looks like a decent car to start with. Shame about the sunroof, but oh well.

I have my CZC bookmark set to this: https://www.classiczcars.com/discover/unread/?&stream_classes[IPS\forums\Topic]=1 Topics only, no pictures, no calendar events, etc.

The section in that pic was cut just behind the seam where the dogleg meets the rocker. B is actually the dogleg, not the rocker, the piece between A and B is the inner rear section of the rocker, and A, I'm not sure about, but I suspect that is the bottom section of the inner portion of the quarter panel/dog leg. If you are unsure of what you need, I would recommend posting some pictures of what you need to fix on your car, and then we can direct you from there. Also be aware that Tabco products are not all that great, and you may need to repair the repair panel before you weld it in. I know of at least one issue with the rocker panel where the die basically stretches the metal too thin, and splits it. And you'd probably never notice unless it was pointed out to you.

Not really. Lots of "Dotsuns" and "240ZXs" out there, too.

https://www.311s.org/phpBB3/index.php

Great seats for a sports car. No side bolstering whatsoever! I believe there's supposed to be a little rubber bumper there. Would have to look to confirm.

Weird that the one side would be that bad, but the other side looks fine. And I don't see a lot of rust on your floors. I agree that the whole car needs to be evaluated before you continue, if the damage is limited to the driver's frame rail, then I would consider fixing it to be worthwhile. Wonder if the car was in an accident, or if someone was really sloppy when topping up the brake fluid. But that wouldn't really explain the condition of the crossmember.

Sounds like you need one of these: https://www.carcoon.com/

If you've got some money to spend, maybe get in contact with the folks at http://datsunspirit.com/

I was referring to a different post. I have no doubt that poor quality Chinese materials and parts are making their way into places they don't belong.

Seriously, I don't come on here to read political opinions, and I've noticed a pattern by now. Enough already.

What do you mean? I'm not really sure exactly what you're asking, but I think you kind of answered your own question there - the S30 is a unibody. No frame.

Found them on Instagram a little while back. Pretty nice cars they build, although I think some of them are a little bit too done up. It looks like the owner of the shop owns Alan T's old 240ZG, as well.

If I were you, I'd make a wood buck in the shape of the air horn, and then get some sheet metal and start hammering it over. Learn how to shrink and stretch. Could be a fun learning experience.

Front is easy, just get new fenders. Rear is what you should worry about, and given that the quarter and wheel housing join in the fender lip, that means that you are repairing both.

What was the cut off for 2400 valve cover? I wouldn't doubt it has a 5/70 build date. It's clearly a series one car, so not a 5/71 build date.