Nazgul280

That's a good question. I will dig out my receipts for the strut insulators, but I believe they were the same Nissan part numbers when I got them in from the dealer here. I will see if I can rule that out. Could anybody who has this setup on a 280Z take the trouble to measure their spring lengths, front and back?

Hi everybody, I've got a nagging problem that I am resolving to correct: I resto-modded my 280Z several years ago. Before I restored it I had put on the Tokico springs and Blue shocks (non-adjustable) for the 280Z. When this Z was in stock form, the lowering springs looked good, but since it was restored/modded I have dropped a lot of weight from the car, including the nasty bumpers + bumper shocks. I went with the poly 240Z "bumpers" (non-functional). I have never been happy with the ride height (stance) in the front ever since. I will attach a picture so you know what I am talking about. It looks like the front of the car is too high, and the rear looks really good to me. The wheel and tire setup is square (meaning, same size front and back). How can I correct this without a coilover kit? One idea I have is getting the springs for the 240Z. I don't know if these will be a different rate (because the 240, as you all know, had different weight resting on the springs) or length and balance out the stance of the car. I am not sure if they will even fit on the car due to different strut housings and strut top busings? Another idea I have is to get the strut top bushings (rubber padding at the top of the springs that mate with body) for the 240Z, but I am also unsure of fitment. Anyone out there have PROVEN fixes to this? It's worth noting that I have seen many other 280Z's with lowering springs that have the proper stance. It is really bugging me and I want to fix it. Thanks for any positive feedback.... Dana Boudreault President, Carolina Z Club

Now that's some good thinking, FastWoman! Don't even think about reusing those old manifold gaskets!! ! You'll be driving this Z before you know it.

Hmmm, they look like Aeromotive knockoffs to me! $130 vs. $28. Either that's a good deal or we are just paying too much for name-brand regulators!! Looks like they have a 7 day return policy, so if you hope to get a refund on a defect, don't buy it until you are ready to install and run the engine again. It looks like what you need if that's the route your going, which is a slippery slope in the world of modification. :classic:, but the price seems too low: the gauge alone is usually 10 bucks, and they are supplying the fittings, hose, and mounts too. I'd have a backup waiting if it doesn't work! I'm thinking you're only going to need an adjustable range of 30-45 psi. If you are going to get a fuel rail (I responded to your thread in the EFI forum), you might as well get a permanent fitting and fuel pressure gauge, which can be found easily on Summitracing.com or other popular aftermarket performance suppliers like Jeggs, etc., and stick it near the fuel rail. I did it, and can see the difference in pressure between my FPR and upstream at the beginning of the fuel rail. That way, I can adjust the pressure accordingly. Sounds like you are on the right track. These L28s are notorious for leaking at the exhaust manifold at the #6.

I have an aluminum fuel rail that I never used, but it is for o-ring type injectors and AN fittings or pipe fittings on either end. If you are keeping the barb-type injectors, I suggest Pallnet (Peter Allnet). He sells fuel rails for L28 engines that will bolt up to the stock intake manifold and have proper alignment for your injector bosses, but I took a look at his website and it looks like he is having machinery trouble. He supplies an email on his website: http://pallnet.webs.com/ I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator after my fuel rail bolted to my firewall. It seems to dump pressure when I shut down the engine withing a couple of seconds (I guess there's no check valve), but I have never had a starting problem even in 98 degree summer days after shutting down. It's on the passenger side and blurry in this picture (red Aeromotive FPR)

Bummer about those injector bolts!! Use anti-seize on the new ones and you won't have that problem again! I've read your posts, and it looks like you've put a lot of thought into this. I just have a few thoughts that maybe you can consider... 1) Good idea to replace the temp sensor that you know is bad, and sticky injectors will certainly enrich the mixture. 2) Air leaks will make it run lean, and possibly raise the idle speed. 3) Cold start valve continually operating will keep it rich, and it's tied into the temp sensor for the cold start cycle. If in fact your ECU always thinks the engine is too cold it will run on the enrich schedule with the cold start valve. 4) One thing you or anybody else did not mention: if after all those above still haven't fixed it, then I would pry open the black dust cover on the AFM and reference the Z Tech Tips related to the AFM. Here is a great place to start for the theory and help about a rich running Z: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/runningrich/index.html 5) As a last resort, adjust the AFM teeth to change the overall fuel mixture. This will change the mixture on the entire bandwidth. Also, you will probably see if a previous owner has messed with it. I don't know if you developed this problem recently, or if it was always like this, but sometime you inherit problems created by POs. Often times people will mess with the AFM setting to cover a problem they can't find, then, when the other problem is corrected all of a sudden the car is not running well. Here is the link for the detail and adjustment (which is HIGHLY informative): http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/afm/index.html I encourage you to reference these directions and I feel certain you will find your problem...keep going and you will have success! Don't forget to post the results when you find the solution so we can all learn and for the benefit of those who come after you. Good luck!:classic: -Dana

Draztik, you should start your own thread with questions, as technically you are hijacking Shade123's thread here. You will also get more responses as probably most people have stopped watching this thread. <: You might want to refer to the links above for help, it is really a great and complete trouble shooting guide for your 280Z. Shade123, how have you come along with the testing you have done per Blue's Tech Tips that was provided?

Here you go Shade, this is probably the single most useful source in the Z car world for troubleshooting a 280Z: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm And here is the main page: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Read it and follow it and you will most likely find the problem this weekend! PS: as far as the Throttle Body is concerned, all you can do is make sure it's metering the proper amount of air for a smooth idle, and you can take the boot off and have someone work the throttle to see if it is opening and closing correctly. Usually there is years of gunk around the butterfly, so it won't hurt to remove the TB and clean the throat and butterfly with some Seafoam and a fine steel wool.

That's a good post to read. Start with the basics. Since you didn't tell us what Z you have, I'm going to assume it's an S30 (1st gen). Has the car been sitting for a long time? If it has, corrosion of the connections or the sender would be the first thing I would check. Before you get to pulling the sender out of the tank, your problem could be where the wires are attached to the sender. Mine were broken, so I used solder to make the contact good between the sender and the wiring harness, then covered it up with silicon to protect it from the harsh environment where it is. Anyway, read that post that was supplied to you and see what you can find. If your still stuck, someone here will try to help, but be as descriptive as you can with what you have done to find the problem. (and include the model of the car too)

I'm thinking the tension on the valves is gone? Buy new springs?

Shade, Are you saying the engine won't rev past 4500 RPM? No power is one thing, but not revving to red-line is another. Honestly, the only thing that keeps an engine from actually revving is airflow (as long as there is fuel and spark and the firing order is correct, wink wink). When I built my engine, I had a custom intake manifold made, and it was made very poorly. It had so many air leaks that the first time I started it up it shot right up to 4500 rpm and stayed there. I am wondering if the flap is opening correctly, or if your fuel pressure is dropping. If you can see the pressure and it is fine, and the AFM is working correctly. I would take ohmmeter readings as per the Service Manual on the AFM and make sure they are within specs (there are several). I know a lot of people that had to get another AFM because theirs failed the test. So, my priorities would be: Fuel pressure AFM readings and if that all checks, find a spare ECU to borrow and hook it up to your Z to see if there is any change. They have proven reliable even after 30 years but it is something to consider. I have a fuel rail from a 77/78 that still has the pressure regulator on it, so if it turns out your fuel pressure is the problem, just email me and I will mail it to you. Keep us posted, -Dana

jr260z, I believe I stopped by your Z at the show and we talked about the LED headlights. You are the first person I've seen with them, even before Audi can put them on their production cars!! Ron, well said sir! After telling this story to a friend of mine down the street, he asked if 4 years ago when I started taking the 280 apart for the resto/mod had I ever dreamed this would happen. The answer of course was a NO, but I am so glad of that surprise that awaited me. I took the time to thank Colin Price for all that he had done for the convention and told him that I hope Nissan realizes this DOES build brand loyalty. He told me it was their pleasure, and that he (and the people at Nissan) also love these classic Z cars. I think we joked about how what he was doing that day at the track didn't really feel like work and that he was getting paid to have fun!

Bonzi Lon, that is a good story! gnosez (John), it was also good to see your Z again, we missed it at ZdayZ this year. It was great to see you, and thanks for sweating out there as a judge all day long! I wish the Z could have been in a little better shape for the show, but i did the best I could with the time I had. Wow, 132 is FAST. I couldn't see the speedo from my seat, so I can't guess how fast John had it. It shows fast anyhow, and gets progressively worse as speed increases. John told me he hit the rev limiter once, but I didn't notice...I think the smile on my face blocked some of the sounds of the car! These are the times we will remember. I am so glad I didn't decide to get an early start home that morning....

This was my first ZCON and I have to say it was a great choice. As Zlady said, it was great spending time with friends and making new ones. The last day of the Convention turned out to be the best time for me, and I would like to share this experience with all of you if you care to read on. Thanks to the friendship of Ron Carter, Les Cannaday, Peter and Gayle Brock, I was given the opportunity to take my Z out on the track with them for the photo session, with John Morton in the driver's seat and me in the passenger (or as my old Nissan owner's manual said, the Assistant Seat). Wow! Front row, I was flanked by Pete Brock in the 370Z and Steve Millen in the 300ZX on the other side. Fast company for sure!! Then it got better. With time for 4 laps on the track during the lunch, John and I set out again for some hot laps. I gave him a quick briefing on the basics of the car so he knew what to expect. John looked at me and asked if I had a rev limiter. At this point I knew I was in for the ride of my life. Each lap John drove a little faster and showed me where the proper line should be. I was told by Colin of Nissan to only let him do 4 laps because he had to be back to drive another car, but it seemed neither of us wanted to stop! Since I built most of the car myself, and it never had a shake-down on a track like this, I was just hoping that it stayed together! Each time he touched the brakes I remember thinking to myself "please work, don't let me be responsible for hurting John Morton"! When we came off the track and pulled in to the garage, my front brakes were smoking, and John had a very satisfied look as he waved off the smoke saying "just because they are smoking doesn't mean anything is wrong with them." He gave me some advice on how to make it a better track car, then we talked about other things. (one of the first things I'm doing is to remove the dust hats up front) That day was one of the best I've had in many years, and I have to thank the people who took pity on me to make it happen: John Morton, Colin Price, Ron Carter, Les Cannaday, Peter and Gayle Brock, the people of Asphalt Ventures (Kevin Harvey and his wife, Bryan Settle, Morris Morgan, and all the other volunteers), and thanks to the Z owner from Springfield MA who graciously lent his new helmet to John--I hope your journey home to MA was safe and trouble-free! That's the story! If anyone has some hi-res pictures of the track photo session or any video of the #30 BRE or #46 could you PM me and possibly send it over? I'm looking for a good picture to blow up and frame. Savannah should be a fantastic time, accept the heat will be just as oppressive in July as it was in Nashville! Any chance we could talk you into changing it to a more desirable month??? -Dana

Carl, Ron, Les, everyone at the Georgia Z Club and the 510 Club, it was an awesome time for me. My favorite parts were the friends I made and the people I finally got to meet that have inspired my Tribute Z (and of course the parade lap with the BRE team & cars). Thanks Thanks to Peter, Gayle, and the whole BRE team and their support members for making this happen. Carl, it was a real pleasure seeing your Baja 240 there in person! You did a really nice job with it. Cheers everyone! -Dana