Rockr69

So I'm guessing, you get to drive your car about a month out of the year? Anyway check out link, http://www.dynamat.com/store/store-car.asp

Same one as lonetreesteve's

Prospero's Garage or Coco's garage on E-bay here is the link, http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/ these are the best! I have tracked down every one of my elcetrical problems using this.

...and then live with the OH SO SWEET consequences of your actions, welcome!

I sailed for three years aboard the M/V All Alaskan as a crab and salmon processor. Was usaully on the hook off of the Pribilofs in the Bearing Sea, but sometimes we'd have to run from storms that would get to blowing and with a ship that crawled at about 12 knots in calm seas, those storms were some of the coolest experiences of my life aside from knowing if we went down it was lights out for sure. So not quite the romantic experience of you Bob and Justin, but that's all I got. The one thing for sure is, if not for meeting my wife and starting a family, I know I would still be at it. The sea is like a Z, it gets in and stays in. I love it.

MEZZZ, you won't hear the fuel pump turn on with the key. It is wired into the AFM as a safety feature and is operated as air moves through the inlet flap of the AFM so in the case of an accident if the engine stalls the pump also shuts off to avoid fire. That is why your not getting any reading form your multi-meter. AS for the humming dropping resistor and the hissing pressure regulator maybe Stephen can answer those, however the humming resistors and the recharge cycle of your battery made me think of another possibility, is your battery/starter shot? And... is the wire connected to the battery containing the fusible link for the injectors hooked up properly and have you drained any gas from the tank to verify it has no junk in it. I hope I haven't added any worry to your plight, just trying to go through the body of evidence with you until a solution can be found. Keep on trucking you'll get it eventually.

I think I can speak for eveyone, we miss you too. Keep your chin up and keep dreaming about Zs.

Sounds like a good place to start again, but instead using staring fluid use some gas dribbled into the air filter. Starter fluid is so nasty! If she starts and runs for a few seconds you know your gettin closer. After re-reading your previous posts noting that your sure it has gas I'm starting to lean towards the dreaded gas tank gremlin. YOur car is showing the exact same symptoms as did mine, a 76, and because I'm poor I couldn't have my tank professionally refurbished, so I came up with my own method and since I've posted the procedure here before I won't bore anyone with the details, but you can p.m me and I'll fill you in. After all it seems like you've done everything else to eliminate it down to fuel supply. Hope I can help, Dan

Thanks for the correction Stephen. MEZZ, I'm just stuck on the thought that if it's a later head and with all the PO misinformation about the car, does it have all the correct electrical connections and you still have not confirmed if you are using the 75-77 AFM or the later style. I'm assuming, and shame on me for that, that you are using the 75-77 AFM because you said your car was running. The reason is the fuel pump contacts are in the AFM for the 280z. The only things on these FI cars that I can think that would cause a rich condition would be low ignition voltage, incorrect or non-sufficiant data for the ECU e.g., the temp sensor. I concur with taking a breath and your time. The answers will come. They always do. Dan

Thanks fo rthe clarification Stephen. Could it be a bad water temp sensor causing a "cold condition" creating an over rich condition? Dan.

I kinda feel foolish asking this especially with all of Stephen's knowledge about Datsun's, (you ROCK! Stephen), but if your head has the CHTS on the side, as does my Maxima, do you have the proper 77 thermostat housing with the CHTS mounted in the front? It was hard to tell from your photos if all the connectors were present. Stephen can correct me if I'm wrong, but it should have the thermotime switch and the CHTS side by side in the front. And if not hooked up it would explain the black smoke and rough running condition.

speaking of teenagers, I saw this on a school marquee last week, " learn something from a teenager today, while they still know everything" I know its not a bumper sticker, but shools don't have bumpers.

ditto

thanks Arne. I figured suspension and steering was what I was dealing with so it should go in this thread. Members are doin it all the time, by that I mean posting needed parts or info in the specific thread dealing with that paticular part or info. Again thanks. I'll try those you have listed and is there a list of places like that on the site or do I need to search through thousands of posts to glean that info for myself?

nobody knows where to get a front hub? Everyone knows how to get a car started or upgrade brakes, but only one guy asks anything about the front hub (thanks Gary). I feel like I'm on everyones ignore list!

It's the hub Gary. The outer race spun inside the hub and enlarged the opening so big the race just rattles around in it. The spindle however, thank the Lord was salvageable. Dan

Hi everyone. I've fried one of my front hubs (sticking caliper cooked wheel bearings) and cannot find one. I was wondering if any of my local fellow members have any ideas as to where to locate one? Thanks, Dan

One more thing, just because your battery posts an connectors are clean does not mean the battery is charged. Upon re-reading your posts I remembered the same thing happening. I turned on the headlights and the car died. It died instantly because the running systems had already drained the battery past the the point of being able to support another running system, especially the headlights. Start there and work your way through. You will find the problem. Again, good luck, Dan

I own a 76 280z and the only time I've had problems like the ones you describe had to do with the fusible links and the posts to which they connect. Go to this site http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ and get yourself a FSM. And keep checking back 'cuz what is not available right now may be in an hour or so. You definitely have an electrical issue. I hope this can help you and good luck. Dan

Or is it even in Oregon? Sorry if not I thnik I may have had a brain fart?

Beautiful Z Carl, Is that stretch of river on Hwy 20 or on 22? Dan

upon further review of your video, I noticed one of your fusible links is gone. I'm no expert and maybe Sblake has more knowledge in this area, but I know before I updated mine if those were not just right the car would not run. You might PM Sblake and seeif he can suggest anything about that. Dan Nevermind I looked again and indeed it is there. As for the water issue I powerwash mine all the time and I just have to pull off the TPS connector and blow out the harness and the sensor itself and no probs ever. I would say rusty plug wires are good place to start. Does your pump cycle every time you turn on the key? I believe, though again I'm probably wrong, it's supposed to do that. Pressurize and stop until the either the power is lost or the pressure drops. Also if your getting 36psi fuel pressure while cranking the engine, your ignition system, somewhere in it, is probably faulty. Again, Sblake is very knowledgeable about these cars especially the 78's, cuz that's what year he owns. Listen to what he has to say.

Thanks for the offer Gary. I'd rather buy one so I have it on hand cuz I doubt the 76 is gonna be last Z. I'm gonna have a helluva time anyway cuz it looks like at one time the car lost a wheel. the bottom of the suspect side is ground flat with only a fraction of the retaining pin head showing. Yay! I'll have Fun! as for the diff I guess I could pull from junkyard and have rebuilt. I just didn't wanna, but.... Dan

I know, I want to replace it or buy parts to rebuild it. However I don't want to do the work. I want it already built. I am going to change out wheel bearings and the spindle pins (God be with me on that), rebuild the driveline and half-shafts along with replacing the tranny. All of which I can do, but I want the diff to be new as in the parts inside and I want the build and the setup to be guaranteed. So does any know? I would love to hear from you. Dan

I've been doing alot of reading in the old posts and I can't find anywhere to buy an already built R200 for my 76. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, Dan