ChrisZ

I also like to add, thet there is a inline resistor in the tach wiring, maybe that one is blown. My -73 also have the same kind of tach, it didn't work when i first got the car, i found out the wire was cut, when one PO installed a Pretronix, maybe it's worth a try to open up your harness to see if there is any bugs there. Chris

Look at post #43 Relay at left has a black / white wire, this wire ends up on your starter, ohm it out and you will see. Chris

And we can also help you get a inline six back in that car Chris

Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one. You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires. If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence. Chris

Mike, one or two pics would have been enough, let's take the last one. You have the fuel pump harness, the relay at the bottom left is what is activated by your starter and altenator, that relay activates the relay at the buttom right, the one with green and black wires. If you take off the 4 wire plug fron the relay at the left and make a jumper and connect two of the wires (can't remember the colors) your fuel pump should run of the original harness, the black/white goes to your starter, if you find the wire gong to your altenator and leave that out, you should jump the two last, hope it makes sence. Chris

Well if your jetting is good, i don't see it as a big problem, the hardest parts is to get that jetting correct, other than that it is just balancing and idle mixture, but you need to get your timing fixed first. Chris

Mike, the mechanical fuel pump will do the job, so leave that fuse out for now. I think it's a good decision to rebuild those carbys, ordering from Matt / Eurocarbs, will make you sure to get genuene Dellorto / Weber parts, for Weber parts there is also fastroadcars. When you have those carbs on fresh and rebuild, do like this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=325940&postcount=35 Look in your inbox, ive send you a PM and no, i'm not trying to buy your car Chris

Okay, let's continue here assuming that is the topic you are referring to. Chris

Mike, i'm starting to be confused now, there is tree different topics you have started and they tend to get mixed up, atleast in my head. Please answer these questions. 1. Is the carbs spilling fuel while cranking ? 2. Have you opened the throttle adjustment screw a quarter of a turn on each carb.? 3. Is your electrical fuel pump running, when the car is ? Chris

Can you post a photo of the relays, in passengers footwell. If your carbs are spilling fuel like that, you should adress that first, before even trying to get a spark, replace your needle valves and check your float hight. Chris

It does sound just about right, what is your timing set at

You are better of by getting your ignition in order first, what is your setting of the timing. Have you tried to lift one dome piston a ½ inch at idle, that will give you an idea of if you are running to lean or to rich, ill say you are only half way there by now. Chris

So did you buy it? may i ask for what reason you want to down grade you car with that solution. Chris

Neither, i found this Chris

Tell me how i know, just spend a shite load of time, chasing bugs, my fuel pump didn't work, it turned out to be the relay, ive read they are NLA, can anyone confirm that, i'm thinking about a solution that involves taking a mini relay and implant it inside the old relay, that is if i cant get a new. Chris

Arne, look at his name, its a ZX720 Chris

It is to activate your fuel pump while cranking, after that the altenator takes over, so the fuel pump will not run unless the engine does. Chris

I agree about the two post above, no air horn's is a no go, you will need one inch clearance, from the mouth of the air horn to lid of filter, can't you just swap your filters and keep your base and lid. Some say you will loose up to 20% of power with no air horns, think about it. Here is a little reading http://www.profblairandassociates.com/pdfs/RET_Bellmouth_Sept.pdf Today i made a sample of a air horn, i think i got it just about right, i still need to mill the base and make 5 more, full radius, mouth is 50 mil, tapering in to 40 mil in the first 30 mil, total length is 60 mil. It's not that i want to brag about it, but i'm pretty dang pleased about the result. Chris

Clever trick with that U clamp. Do you self a favor, go back and work your way up. Put the engine at TDC, confirm the rotor is pointing at cyl #1 and you have the correct firing order, check your coil to see if you got the right one, clean or replace your plugs. Loosen your linkage so each carb will be independen of each other, back off each idle adjustment screw, turn them down, just to they touch the arm and give each a quarter of a turn, set your idle mixture screws per Barbylou's specs., this should get you started and give you some kind of idle, sync your carbs, confirm your ignition, i'm running 15-16 degrees BTDC " 800 RPM, havent confirmed my total advance yet. Re sync your carbs, connect all linkage and check to see if your carbs still are syncronised, now you only need one idle screw to adjust your idle, the linkage will do the rest. Time to set your idle mixture. Chris

Frank, I want to get this straight, are you not running horns / stacks, when you have your filter on ?, what size of filters do you have ? Chris

What are you planning on, do you want to cut your excisting harness ?, if not, you will need plugs that will fit your excisting harness.

Photo !!!

If you wan't to go with that solution, this might be interesting manifold on ebay Germany Chris

I'm sure ther is. Chris

Jan, how could you take that as a insult. MikeW, we all want a crack free dash, last crack free dash i put my eys on, got damaged in shipping, my dash gerryboy, go say hi here Chris