ChrisZ

Well Ed so do i, there are two things i'm focusing on now. #1 valve adjustment, there are marks on the rockers surface that is curving down where the cam is hitting it, so when adjusting the valves i can't compensate for those marks and that will make the adjustment to sloppy, am i correct if i say the ratio on the rockere is 1.5 to 1, meaning that if i multiply the thickness of the feeler gauge by 1.5 and measure at the lash pads it should be all the same. #2 either the battery is shot or the altenator / relay is, i have read someplace that it can cause that the spark plugs isn't getting enough voltage and that will affect performance, just got a new battery today,(needed one anyway the other was not mine), im going to install that tomorrow and measure the output from the altenator. Rear float hight on the 3 screws can some verify if it is the same as the front or different. Chris

Oh, i feel better now, i started to be worried for your wife:D

Your local guy is a arse, i didn't pay a nickel to get mine weld shut and it only takes a few minutes if he know what he is doing. I must have a launguage problem here, i really don't get that "mr. Ding Ding" is it because it's hanging to much;) Chris

Nice to here that there is something perfect on my car, ill get you guys a better shot when i get back home. Chris

Hmmm, this question might be covered ealier in the thread, but i like to know if they only come in black or if other colors is avalible. Chris

And why would she do that ??... Why didn't you weld up all holes in the balance tube instead of plugging them off. Chris

Well, you will have one when i get home on sunday mine is fine and it have a label below the switch. Chris Just found this photo on the hard drive, i blew it up a little, hope it will help you.

Dave, its time for you to get a new user name "Mr BLING BLING" Chris

Update, today i pulled the carbs and intake, cleaned it all up and re assembled it, when putting it all together i used some Locktite, just a thin layer on every connection surface, it is a non hardning and oil /gas resistant sealant. I also inspected the carbs, everything looks good except of the float at the rear carb, it was to high, i re adjusted the float, cleaned up the carbs with acetone and put it together, i also checked the "fall of the pistons in the domes" they went down in 3 seconds on both. I put it all together and adjusted the nuts down 2.5 turn, started up the car and began adjusting and balancing, i got it pretty well balanced, to check the mixture i lifted the dome piston ½ an inch, front carb ran pretty good at idle 3 turns down, rear carb ran to lean but i finally got it to run when the front was out of function, balanced it all again, set the high idle and adjusted the flow, when i rev the motor it revs fine, might not be good enough but still better than before, i went for a drive around the block and noticed a big difference, it pulled much better, when i got to a main road i floored it and then there was some hesitation, it just didn't rev good enough, then when i got back home the car didn't idle good enough, now it just die instead of idle, pulling the choke doesent help a bit, how can this be ? Bruce is the float high the same in the rear as in the front, i remember reading some place that there is a difference i just can't remember if it was the 3 or 4 screw carbs. Ed, will it make a difference if i adjust the cam to location #2 on the cam gear ? Anyway, positive progress but not good enough. Chris

Ed you have a point there, but it all have been checked, the cam timing is right on the spot, the camshaft location notch lines perfect up with the oblong grove on the location plate, when #1 hole is used, i have been thinking of trying to move to hole #2 just to see if it makes a difference. When i assembled that motor i did it with the FSM at my side, nothing have been skipped, most of the time i used assembling vent with measuring clerance and so on. Steve, thats also what i think, but i have sprayed every possible place with starting fluid (eather) also around the brake booster, still nothing, i will give it a 2nd try, there is also that "whistling" sound, i need to use a hose listening where it comes from, being that sound isn't constant it gets more irritating. Bruce, i will check. Thanks so far guys Chris

It dosen't touch but it is vey close, the clearance is a ½ inch on that photo i actually flipped the middle section up side down, witch makes the rear section pull it towards the left side and also makes it sit higher. I also need to make some proper brackets for the middle section, but all is closed for easter here and it can wait. I will post a video clip but not before i get the engine to run good. Chris

Oh, one thing more, the motor have a "whistling" sound, but not constant, it just kind of "whistle" once in a while, do anyone know what that is ??....

Maybe i should add that a compression test showed that it have from 185 to 195 psi on all cylinders, i'm comftable with the difference because the rings haven't been broken in yet. Chris

The float hight havent been cheked at the rear, mainly because the car ran with those carbs before i re build the motor and got to fiddle with it, i'm pretty sure that the plug wires is in the right firing order but i will check and confirm, while at it i will also have a look at the plugs. The SM needles is some i got hold of and installed, the shoulder is equal with the buttom of the piston, i swapped because the other needles that was in the carbs looked to have a home grind and who will trust that, the float bowl gasket was put on with some non hardning sealant, the fuel smell is from the exhaust. I will take off the dome pistons tomorrow and clean them again, when the dome are taken off the piston falls freely to the seat, when i have them out i will do the 1 Mississippi, 2 Mississippi, 3 Mississippi test if ya know what i mean, they could of cause have been swapped. i will also check the wires, it must be possible to test it with a test lamp. Thanks for your replies, any other with some input on this. Chris

After the re build of my motor i have been spending some time adjusting the engine and just cant get it running smooth, i have been reading searching and reading, but still i cant figure this out. The motor is a L24 with L26/28 crank, flat top pistons, late E88 head, C-cam round tops (3 screw) SM needles and Pertronix It also have headder and of course my new exhaust http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34025 At the first start up i set the timing to 5 degrees according to the FSM, turned down the mixture nuts 2.5 turn and synced the carbs, the car sputters, backfires or after fires, depending on how much i turn down the adjustment nuts, float hight is set at the front carb, mainly because i got to bend it out of adjustment when looking for dirt in the bowls. I have also tried to adjust the ignition with a vacuum gauge for best vacuum when it fires, eather has been sprayed every possible way i could think off, no changes. Valves has been adjusted but only cold. Timing advance seems to work as well, when i suck in the vacuum hose the advance will turn and stay there until i relese the vacuum, if i turn the distributor shaft and let it go it will turn back as there is a spring helping it, so i believe it works as it should. The car runs very rich at idle, i mean very very rich, it doesn't smell it stinks of gas, then when i turn the mixture nuts up to lean it, it will then pop/backfire as running to lean, i can't really figure out WTF is going on. After having put on my dual exhaust i have noticed something interesting, while holding my hand in front of the outlet there is a big difference in how much preassure there is at the end of the exhaust, the uppe one isn't blowing /pushing half as much as the lower one ? it must indicate that there is something wrong at the rear end of the motor witch the upper one connects to. Please help, all input is appreciated. Chris Please guys what am i missing here ??.......

Hi guys, now it is my time to make a dual exhaust thread. Since my car came with a 2.5 inch exhaust there after my taste was way to loud, i decided to make my version of the Clifford dual system, my decision was to use 1 3/4 inch pipe, being that it should be the same as 2.5 inch pipe in opening, some might remember this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33819 The exhaust was suppose to have the same mufflers in the middle the same as the glasspack at the back, the guy at the parts store made a mistake and ordered tha wrong ones, well i talked him down to $16 a piece, decided to use them and if it don't works it won't be such a big loss. I still need to make tips at the end, just have to figure out how they shall be made, but i promice you guys that it have one of the best sounds. All parts used comes from Swedish "Simons" and is a good quality I let the photos speak for them self. Chris

Can i please have a copy og that invoice, i also had a formal quote and they gave shite about that, i like to file in a complain and ask for a refound. We will be leaving for our summer house on Tuesday, so i don't think we will be at home at that time, unfurtunatly, but still we might, you can try to give me a call when you are ready, are you planning on doing it on your way to Fyen? Chris

Nice to here you will have it on the road very soon, what did you end up paying in tax, i assume you also got a extra fuel fee as i did, something in the $500 area. Now we need to plan a cruise:D Chris

You need to post photos of the interior and typical rust areas, do you have the matching engine ? A car sitting in the field like this, sunk 4 inches in to the soil is prone to rust so it could be anything from $300 to $1500 Chris

Not quite, i never have had contact with germanz. Chris

My advice would be, stay away from it and go with Arne's suggestion. Here is the calculation on my purcase of a Zed. Price of car $1300, it came with the motor taken apart being it had burnt a piston. Machine shop work, pistons, bearings ect, app $500-600 With the other misc parts the total is in the $2500 area. Total shipping for 3 cars in a 40ft container to Denmark all include $5800, witch is less than $2000 a car. Danish registration tax $3200 So from being a car in California to a road worthy and tagged car in Denmark i have paid $7700, i use to say that i have 8k in that car, it has no rust, motor is rebuild interior is good looking except of cracks in the dash, paint is decent and can wait a few years before repaint. So if you leave out the shipping and our sky high tax you can see it can be done for less of what you are planning on spending on that car and you can combine it with a nice little vacation in Cali. Chris

ozy, bumper guards, should be the right word, if spelled correct, then there is the over ride, but that's a whole other thing. Fender /Wing Hood /Bonnet and the list go on i guess i'm not the only one having problems some time. Chris BTW you need a haircut mate

As for the gas door bump stops you can get them here http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-240Z-parts-rubber2.html Chris

Can anyone by chance help with the formula for paint code 114 bronze, all paint have to be water based here and the suppliers dont have that old a formula, so the color is getting NLA here, if i get the formula i'm sure my painter can mix it. Chris

i can clearly see that the paint i used is much brighter, i will post pics when i have the car again. As for the rivets, i like to here what others say. Chris