ChrisZ

What i think you should do, is to set the engine at TDC, take off the dizzy and take a photo down the piedelsta so we can see the position of the drive shaft, the oil pump have to be removed then the shaft will come out, just don't do anything before we can see a photo, much easier to guide you then. Chris

Driveshaft that goes from oil pump to dizzy might be one tooth off. Chris

Richard, i know the Aus DR have changed hands and i think the US company have done the same, so have that in your mind when reading about feedback. Not long ago, i contacted the Aus DR asking for a price, i was told they don't make 240Z dashes, so i had to ask him back, why there was a 240Z dash present on his frontpage :stupid: Chris

Mike, let me repeat my self, that wire runs to the fuel pump relay. Chris

Richard Oben, why don't you put some photos up on your posting, i think many other than me, would like to see the work that have been done. Chris

Your brake pedal will only move what the pads will allow, you can try to loosen the brake line before the brake cylinder to see if there is any fluid coming out, bleed your brakes before the brake cylinder.

Those screws are not meant to be removed, you can cut a slids with a Dreml and then use a flat head screwdriver. Chris

Brian, do you by chance have a photo, one that compare the grain of the original and this. Les (CDM) told me some time back, that Butterscotch is NLA and it wasn't possible for him to make any more repro things in that color, not until he could find a matching vinyl. Do any of your guys, who bought one of these sets, know who made them ? Chris

A machine shop can tell you the size, they will have the correct measuring tools, STD size should be 83 millimeter, but you can't tell if it have been bored once, not without measuring, always replace pistons in a set. Chris

Okay, this is just guesses. Spring, is for the accelerator pump below the carb Two biggest round gaskets must be for fuel inlet banjo. Shiny alu washer must be for needle valve. The rest i really can't see that well on a 10 inch laptop. Why won't your idle mixture screws work, do they have another thread size ? Chris

Is there something wrong here or is it me, these covers do look to me as 240Z covers and not 280Z Seat covers on ebay is there someone here with a better eye for this who can confirm this. Chris

Mike, is it all those parts you have framed in ?

Stephen, the cars Lars Peter and i have, is both -73 brown US imports, are you looking for a points or ZX dizzy? Chris

What a shame to here Lars Peter, so when do you think you will have the car home i CPH ?

Have a look here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=38513 Chris

Yeahr, Adrian, you are right, i will pull a test wire from the tach and direct to the coil and see what will happen, with and without a 2.2k resistor. Let you know of the result. Chris

L.P. you should try to contact Bruce Palmer and guide him to this topic, i was thinking fuel starvation, but after reading post #16, i can see that that is not the case, maybe you should try with a lighter weight oil, so are you bringing the car back to Copenhagen now?. Chris

L.P. that thingy that goes around is a rotor. So your timing is to retarded, do you have a vacuum gauge, if so, attach it to one of the ported studs on the front carb, one of those with a rubber cap on, then rotate your dizzy to best possible vacuum at idle (clockwise i guess), if the car pings when you test drive it, back it off a few degrees. If i remember correct, a ZX dizzy have 8.5 stampen on the shaft, that should give you 17 degrees of initial advance, so 10 degrees at idle is not enough, you should set it to 15 - 17 at 750 RPM I run 17 degrees at 800 RPM with triples and the idle is so smooth. Chris

Shiny indeed, looking good. I will post my days work a little later, need to get some photos taken first. Chris

Yes it have been some time, long and cold winter is no time for cars. Search for float level, IIRC there is something about the 4 screw have different settings, something like 12 mm on the rear carb. I'm out of the SU business for the time being, just finished my triple install and that my freind is WOW, the sound is so sweat, just wait until you see and here it. Bringing my car back home tomorrow, time to enjoy, do you know DVK have a gathering at "dragør fortet" some time in June. Chris

Lars Peter, do you have your car at home or at your ol' folks ? When reading your describtion, i think you hit the nail when mention the piston don't move more than 10 - 20 mil, being it's a variable venturi, you will most likely run out of air, if the pistons don't rise more than that. A quick test you could preform is this, engine shut off, lift a piston and let it go, it should come down with a "clonk" if not, i wil bet you have a bend needle unless the piston is sticking to the dome, anyway, do you have your car at home, you could drop by during next week (Thuesday) and we can have a look at it. Chris Oh, one more thing, when you bolt on the piston dome, you will have to push the piston up and down while you fasten the screws, if the dome doesen't seat correct, it can cause the piston to stick.

Fault readings Adria, show about half the value, being it's a 3 wire, i can use the guts from a 260Z, i have tried to turn the screws on the back with no result. Chris

Good to here you got it fixed, i could use the guts from one of your spare tach's, ned to be working. Let me know. Chris

Well if you are bored, you should spend your time on fixing your Zed Chris

For the fun of it, you could also try to wire one of your spare tach's up per Jim's decribtion, direct to the battery and coil, it might bounce around a bit, being there is no resistor. Chris Edit, IIRC the tach wire is spliced in to the negative wire going from the dizzy to the coil,