ChrisZ

Welcome from a neighbor to Germany, there are members in Germany, if you are lucky and close to one of them, you might be able to stimulate your abstinence:classic: The Z looks good, more pics. Chris

IIRC, Black Dragon have it, also try to look at the classifieds, there are some parting out cars, they might have one. Chris

Okay guys, i finally solved the problem by cutting up the harness a the coil / dizzy, after tracking the wire from the tach with a ohm meter, the problem was that when one PO installed a pertronix unit, he cut the wire at that goes from the negative terminal from the coil to the dizzy:stupid:, in that wire the tach wire is spliced in, he should just have connected the pertronix, to the negative at the dizzy and there would have been no problem. Now i just need to adjust the tach, does anyone know, witch of the two screws on the back of the tach, that is for adjustment and how to ?. Chris

I think this is the wrong forum to ask those questions. Chris

Have you checked for air leaks around your intake manifold, look at #2 Chris

Just make sure to get a shipping quote from this guy, before buying anything !!.... Chris

Andy, thanks a lot for your time, it's really appreciated, the biggest problem is that there is no such thing as a correct wiring diagram for the -73 model, not as far as i know, i would really like to get my hands on one, if it excist. On my harness the GW is spliced in to the BW going from ballast resistor to coil positive side, this is what makes it strange since the -74 260 model is triggered from the negative side of the coil. Isn't there any of the electrical brains here that can help me ??.... Chris

Depends on shipping cost;) Chris

0.20 and 0.25 millimeter HOT Chris

If your balance is right on at idle, then check valve adjustment, and check your dizzy for seized up advance plate, adjust your ignition for best vacuum. Chris

I just had a similar issue, start by checking the wire plugs hidden by the stering columm cover, on my -73 there is a multiple pin plug for most of it but the head lights have it's own plug. http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html go to reference and you will find a manual. Chris

Jon, you are saying it all started when you had a headder installed, i think you should look for vacuum leak. Make sure your valves are adjusted correct. The mixture can be checked by raising one piston about ½", then the car will run on the other carb, it shall have a rough idle, if it dies you are to lean and if it continues idle at high RPM, you are to rich, the mixture nuts shall be turned all the way up (counter clockwise) then 2.5 turn down (clock wise) looking from top of carbs, tread adjustment screws until idle, balance, check mixture, adjust mixture if needed, balance, balance at high idle, you want to have your pistons raise the same, do this at different RPM's, turn back the high idle screw, check balance and you are there. Every time you make a adjustment, you have to rev the engine, did you check and adjust the spark gap to 0.9 millimeter ? If you have a vacuum gauge you can use that to adjust your ignition timing, on your front carb, there is two vacuum studs, hook up your vacuum meter to one of them, turn your dizzy to best vacuum, back it off just until the vacuum drops, back it off a little more if your car ping's I have made a photo showing where it's placed Green - mixture nut Yellow - idle/balance screws Blue - pistons Red - high idle balance screw I hope this helps you on the way Chris

Andy, i'm a little taller, only about 8 inch and i almost hit the roof, when i got the car i was sitting much lower, then i pulled the seats, pulled the covers and had them washed, when i re installed the covers i put in some "felt" on top of the springs, it was recommeded by the upholstry guy, the hair lock have a tendecy to sink down in to the springs, in between the hair lock and cushion i put 3/4 inch foam and now my seats are so comfortable, my cushions looks very good and i think it is the cover that have streched. If you want to raise your seats, there are some distance nuts you can adjust the seats up with, they have to be under the rails, try to have a look and see how many you have. Chris

Andy, once again thanks for the photos, the wiring looks as the same in my car, fat BW to ballast resistor, the two other BW, goes from positive side of coil to BR, in that wire the GW to the tach is spliced in, according to the -74 260Z FSM the tach is triggered from the negative side of the coil :surprised, but it looks as the -73 3 wire is triggered from the positive side ??.... Do anyone know if there is a in line resistor and where it is. Andy, the photo of your seats are the best i have seen of the original and it clearly shows that the center section have inserts of the same vinyl as the center of the door panel, i just send a PM to Les at CDM and i hope he will chime in here with some information on this topic, time will tell. Chris

ConchZ, are you telling that this is the original tach from your 10/73 Z ? The confusion gets bigger and bigger, i have a 7/73 and it have a 3 wire witch is supposed to be the "new" style and this is a 4 wire tach from a car build 3 month later !!.... Chris

311s.org Enjoy Chris

Andy, thanks a lot, those photos actually tells me that the wire colors is the same as in my car, so the tach must match my car, next thing is the wires at the coil, can i also get you to take a photo of that, there really is some fu.. up in my harness. While i have you, can you then post a clear shot of your seats, it looks to me that the middle section is in a darker tone, is it the same as the middle of the door panels ? Chris

Adam i believe that is not the truth, Les at CDM do offer butterscotch doorpanels, (re skin), IIRC, check out his homepage. Chris

Andy, it looks really good, same combination as mine, will you do me a favor while you are out there with your camera?, i need some photos of the tach wiring, maybe you could stick your hand up behind the dash and shoot. You can read why i like to here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34127 Chris

Then go download the different FSM's, that's what i would do. Chris

Come on guys, isn't there anyone with a -73 that can help me out here ?..... I pulled my tach today (3 wire) and hooked it up directly, it worked so there must be some wiring gremlins someplace. Here is some photos: #1 shows the backside and wire colors, - at the left, + at the right and pulse (yellow) in the middle #2 shows the wires in the dash harness, 2 blacks at the left/middle is -/+ and the green/white is pulse, it is clear that it dont mach up with the plug on the tach wires. #3 i have cut the harness open, there is some cut wires and i assume it is from the EGR stuff that has been taken off, notice that the G/W loops in to a B/W that runs to the ballast resistor and the + side of the coil, a 3 wire tach should have the pulse from the - terminal on the coil, the red on the ballast resistor and the black on the - side of the coil runs to my Pertronix. There is something not maching up here, do i have the wrong tac, did a PO fu.. up my engine bay harness, i really need to solve this, so please help. I will try to get a better shot at the engine bay tomorrow when it is day light. Chris

You really got me there, what the f... is a cupcake. Chris

If you find a vendor, then let me know, i also want some. Chris

Congrat's Dave, if i send you a chocolate cake, are you then sure you want to eat it?. Chris

gnosez, what are you really up to, why do you wan't to know this ! Chris