ChrisZ

#2 is 3/4 inch according to the FSM Chris

It might sound stupid but have you checked your battery, if you have a charger then charge it over night, un attached to the car, then there should be in between 13.8 and 14.4 volt on it, try to measure the voltage again a few hours later and see if it is the same. Chris

I know it depends on your shift fork, the early slave have adjustable push rod and a hole in the fork. Chris

Randy it looks as this on. Chris

Thanks Adam, i will take a look, problem is that my tach isn't working and i don't recall having a GW wire out there. Do you know if you have a 3 or 4 wire tach ? Chris

That's what i was referring to Ron, in all FSM it states 13 to 15 millimeter, this chart is what's needed to have it done correct. Can't these scans be some kind of sticky to download ? Chris

i remember readinig some place that the float hight isn't the same on the rear as on the front on one of the round top carbs, i just can't find it again, what type do you have 3 or 4 screws? Chris

Thanks Adam, i just got home from a 2 x 120 miles cruise (90mph) it was fun and i got to know of some more small "need to fix bugs" While i have you Adam, can i then get you to have a look at the wiring colors at the coil and ballast resistor and then tell me the color codes?, i really need to know. Chris

I just had the same issue, first i sealed all the mounting flanges with non hardning gasket, it helped a little but i also adjusted the float high at the same time, so it could also be it. Then i got the car 6 new plugs and problem solved. Look a few lines down in the "help me" forum and you will find the thread. Chris

I need wiring colors for my -73, it is about the wires at the ballast resistor / coil, on my car there is 3 black / white wires and that dont mach up with the FSM diagram, anyone having a photo of those wires from a -73 or a diagram with the right color codes. My tac is not working and i like to make sure that the wires is connected correct, this car have a lot of bugs. Chris

Okay, here is a photo taken by the painter while my car was there, it looks much brighter than stock, but it will do for now. Chris

Update, problem solved, first i pulled one plug wire at time in order to see if it would make a difference, nothing, then i used my timing light to se if it would work on all wires, there was no flashing on #5 cylinder, 6 new plugs gapped ad installed and now it pulls HARD Time to re adjust the carbs and get raedy for a long trip tomorrow Chris

It sure looks nice, what color is that ? You won't find much informaton on swaps here, go look at HybridsZ, they have all about swaps. Chris

And if you are considering selling that -73 harness, then PM me. Chris

Arne, it makes sence, but have a look here: http://www2.zhome.com:81/ZCMnL/tech/cooper.htm and looking at the FSM wiring diagram there is also shown four wires. Chris

Come on guys 27 looks and still no answer, well forget about it, i solved it my self and for further references if anyone should have a similar problem, then just connect the male and female connectors under the stearing columm:stupid: The tach on the other hand, i have always thought that the -73 came with a four wire tach, when i pulled mine today i noticed that there only is tree wires, please look at the attached photo and confirm to me what kind it is, what makes me winder is that the connector is a 3 wire one, i can't believe that to be normal for a four wire tac, can it really be true that a PO have swapped all the dash harness ??? At the same time i wanted to install the original radio given to me by lpraun, i found then that some jeark apperently have cut the connector off of the harness, where can i get one of those ??? Chris

Check the classifieds. And you won't be ripped off, lot less than the other ask. Chris

The pump will feed the bowl, no problem, the adjustment nut should be turne 2.5 turn out as a starting point, the idle screws on the carbs is what is used to syncronise the carbs at idle, then there is a service screw, turn that down so the car will idle fast, then there is a balance screw you use to syncronice the carbs at higher idle, turn the service screw so the car will idle at 1200 to 1500 RPM watch your dome pistons when adjusting the high idle screw, they should lift the same ammount, i know it is a short write up but it will give you an idea of how it works. Use the search function, there is loads of info covering this i the forum. Chris

Okay, i'm being lazy here, i haven't searches that much and i'm in need of a answer form the electrical brains. First a short summary When i got my car ready for approval, there was no head light on it, it came down to a loose wire at the combo swich, i soldered the wire back on and all lights worked. After my car came back from a trip to the painter, there is not any lights on when the light swich is at position #1 when i turn to position #2 the head lights come on but nothing else. I found a red/blue wire un insulated hitting the stearing columm, being the cover isn't on at this moment i guess the painter or i must have hit it with a knee, i have checked the fuses and all looks good, can the swich have been fried, as far as i can see the red/blue wire should be connected to the light, there is also a red wire with a male flat connecter sticking out there, what is that for. Anyone having a clue on where to start ? witch wire is feeding the swich and witch is the output to the lights. Also my tach isn't working and that is dang irritating, it is totally dead, is there anyway to test it ? Chris

I really don't get what you are writing, please be more specific. Chris

Inside what?

2 minutes per carb!, is that because you can't find a screwdriver and you spend 1.5 minute looking for it ? Chris

If the coolant leaks between the intake manifold and carbs, then it is normal, you won't loose that much coolant, so just pull them. The SU's is fairly simple don't take them all apart unless they are really bad, just take off the domes, take out the pistons, watch for the needles, you don't wanna bend them, take off the lower hose that comes from the float bowls, pull the nozzles, take off the float bown lid, last chance filter and thats all about it, soak it up clean and assemble. Chris

Does that only happens at spring ? Chris

BTW Ed, is that a xenon air dam you have on your ride? Chris