lpraun

Problems solved. Basically it was incorrect float level setting, that was the cause of the problem. With competent guidance and advice from Bruce Palmer from ztherapy and a little time in the garage, the car now drives like a dream. It is now again my favorite car:love:

Yep – I think I have to contact Bruce – I’m sure he can lead me in the right direction. Chris, I did not bring the car to Copenhagen – I need a place to park the car and that needs some planning!

In desperation and because I ran out of ideas, I changed back to the old carburetors – and it drove beautifully. It felt rock solid all the way up to 6500 – and beyond! So this IS a carburetor issue – and I’m empty for ideas!

Okay – float level set at 14mm exactly and fuel mixture setting is set so, when I lift the piston in one of the carburetors using the little pin on the underside, the rpm goes down and the idle get rough. Sparkplugs etc. cleaned and timing set to 15 deg BTDC. The car will rev all the way to redline when standing still – and it seems like it gets worse up through the gears – the engine sounds troubled – it’s like a deep rumbling sound while the willingness to increase the engine rpm goes down. What does it sounds like when the car pings – I know it is difficult to describe a sound, but give it a try!

Okay – a quick update! This morning I switched the float cover from the old carburetors to the new on the car – this did little to nothing on fixing my problem. Then after a little bit of thinking and a cup of coffee I needed something else to do than messing around with the carburetors and decided to look into spark delivery and timing – even though I cleaned the sparkplugs – that where quite black (rich mixture??) – the points in the distributer cap and the distributer pointy thing that goes round and round inside the distributer. I left the timing at 10 deg BTDC. And that helped to a degree – now it will rev to 5000-6000 rpm but it sounds sick and without a lot of power. When I started it up the idle settled on 1000 rpm even though I had tuned to around 600 before I cleaned the sparkplugs etc.

Hi Chris – long time no hear! I’m at my parents place on Fyn, but maybe I will bring The Datsun to Copenhagen sometime during May if I can make the car run properly – then we can meet up and… you know – look at it! I’m positive that the pistons is not sticking – they move freely but it take a lot of force like if I there is a very heavy grade oil in the damping thing – but I have used standard ATF. Well – it’s getting late and I’m off to bed. I will adjust the float level tomorrow and let you know how it goes!

Okay – the float level then! The 14 mm distance you mention – is that from the underside of the “roof” of the lid or is that from the underside of the edge of the lid that protrude about 3 mm further down? I hope it make sense.

Last year I swopped to a later z-car electronic ignition distributer with the E12-80 ignition module, so points and vacuum advance is not an issue. The linkage is assembled correct. It idles fine and starts with little choke and pulls fine until about 4000 rpm. The fuel filter is also quite new and I had no problem with it before. Everything was working fine (I know it sounds stupid) before I switched to the new carburetors! Therefore am I fairly convinced that this is a problem with the setting of the carburetors – the question is what! Could this be a classic problem regarding incorrect float level setting – the new carburetors is right out of the box from ztherapy so I trusted the level setting to be correct?

Hi, as the headline states my car will not rev past approx. 4000 rpm. My car is a 1973 240z converted to 3-screw SU carburetors (long time ago) and electronic ignition (recently) no emission control – everything is the original setup. The carburetors are worn with air- and fuel leaks etc. – bottom line is that they were in pretty bad shape! Despite of that the car ran quite well – revving all the way to 7000 rpm. Anyway I decided to fight the recession by spending some money on a refurbished set from ztherapy – and I was very happy when they arrived this week – they look great! Now I have switched to the new set (4-screw) and tuned them according to my workshop manuals and numerous write-ups on this forum and elsewhere on the net – which basically tell the same. Now – does anybody have any idea about what could be wrong – the ONY thing I have done is to switch over from the old to the new carburetors. I mean – these SU carburetors is freaking simple – float level, fuel mixture, idle, fast idle – make sure they are balanced – what else is there? What could be my problem – please help! I have searched, found and read a lot of other threads about the same problem but have not been able to solve the problem. Another thing I have noted is that the pistons in the carburetors is quite difficult to push up – I am using ATF in the dampers. Also, they do not go up very high when I rev the engine – only around 5 to 10 mm. Help me! Lars Peter

Yeah.. I have driven the Lamborghini Miura – in my dreams A list like this is always debatable and it will never be final – I don’t know if you have the Citroen Berlingo in the US - I hope not. See picture below. But this car should be recognized as the first car to nonsurgically remove the balls of any male owner!

Now when the snow is gone, the temperature in the garage have risen above 5° Celsius (41° F) and the cover is removed from the Datsun – it’s time to get it ready for a new season. During the winter I have collected some spare parts and upgrades to prepare the car for the summer! The list to do is as follows: • Install original looking mylar sunshade – many thanks to Arne for making this possible! • Replace the old rusty gas tank with an, equally old, but rust free tank – including new hoses. • Install the passenger side rear speaker – in order to eliminate the sound coming from the driver side speaker. • Repair a dent in the driver side door and line it up properly with the body. • Install rear sway bar. • Repair the broken driver side seat backrest – or replace the seat. • And as the icing on the cake – I cannot wait to install my newly purchased ztherapy carburettors. This concludes the cheep or already purchased repairs or upgrades for this spring. On the longer run and if the funds are available I would like to install the following to my car: • 5-speed gearbox • BRE style front spoiler, and maybe the rear spoiler – I cannot decide if I should go for the sleek look without the rear spoiler or the mini super car look with the rear spoiler – I like them both! On a hole other note I would like to show off my “new” baby. Last fall I bought this 1991 BMW E30 325iX Touring to replace my old faithful Morris 1000 Super as my daily driver. To expect an improvement over my Morris is obvious, but way this, 19 year old, machine drives is fantastic, even compared to modern cars – especially fun is the 4-wheel drive system in the snow! The body is rust free and the car is equipped with most of the bells and whistles of the time. Well, this ended up being much longer that intended – bear with me. Have a nice and productive Easter in the garage!

Okay guys – did what You sad, warmed up the engine and when I returned home it had a hint if the sound, when I manipulated the throttle. I tried to disconnect different hoses to the emission control systems with no result. I then took of the air cleaner box, and then the sound became much louder and I was able to locate the sound to the idle compensator positioned on the air box back plate. I disconnected the little hose hidden away inside the jungle of other hoses in order to see if I was right – and I was:) It’s nice to know nothing serious is wrong with the engine – now only my pride is subjected to excessive wear when I idle at a stoplight:embarrass: Thank You very much for the valued input. The next question is then how do I fix this or how do I test the idle compensator to se if it works properly – the sound from the idle compositor might still just be a symptom of something else wrong!

The fan clutch is good, and I installed a new water pump a couple of months ago. It sounds like the sounds comes from somewhere around the carburettors and the heap of emission control tubes. The car is not overheating, and I just changed oil and the level and pressure is good. My big worry is if somehow there is a problem with the lubrication of the camshaft or any other mechanical component, resulting in excessive wear or failure.

OK – This is the situation. The car starts fine with full choke and warms up nicely – choke gradually off and after 5 minutes it idles at about 700 rpm with no choke. After a good drive, when it returns to idle it makes a horrible wining sound and will stall or run at very low rpm. If the engine stops and I try to start it again it is very difficult to start. Choke does not help and if it starts it runs at very low rpm – and eventually stalls. I have made a video of the engine making the sound. I am the one who rev the engine in order for it not to stall – as it does in the end of the video. It’s a 73 car with 3-screw round top SU carbs. With all 73 emission control systems still installed. Does anybody have any idea of what is wrong and what I can do to fix it?

I ended up paying the DKK 13.650 (approx $2.350) because I already had a formal quote from the authorities I evaded the extra fuel tax! I can come by Thursday around 13 o’clock with the radio if you are home.

Time for an update! The 16th of March I started on my new job and therefore do not have so much time to work on the car – my bank though, is very relieved Well – back to the car - I got my windscreen wipers to work perfectly and the seats back from the upholstery guy, then last Friday I paid the registration tax and went back home to my parents place where I have the car. The wheels needed some attention which included some power tools and a lot of sandpaper in the following order – grid 80, 120 and 240 dry, 500 and 1000 wet – to finish it up some aluminum polish. Some before and after pictures below. Sunday was a nice and sunny day so I washed the car and I am very pleased with the final result Monday I was back in Copenhagen and went to get my number plates and Thursday I will go back to my parents for Easter – and the first drive in the finished car:cool:

Abort mission – I figured it out! The problem was, that the park locating – and intermediate controlling – switch, located on top of the motor/gear mentioned above was switched on all the time and could therefore not “feel” the position of the wiper motor. Now I just have to raise the “cup” about one millimetre – then everything works! If you have the same problem, the way to check if the switch is on when it’s not supposed to is to park your wipers somewhere on the window (where the switch is not supposed to be on) and the measure the resistance between the yellow and blue/red wire at the connection in the engine room. If there is no resistance the switch is on and you have a problem – if on the other hand the resistance is infinity then the switch works correct. Thanks for the input and support!

I’m not sure it’s a problem with the combo switch – the wiper motor reacts and does a new thing every time I switch the combo switch to a new setting (Off / Intermediate / Low / High). I have overhauled the combo switch – cleaned the contacts and made sure there are no loose connections. I therefore don’t think it is a problem with the combo switch – thanks for the offer though! Lars Peter

Today I finally had the time to pull my wiper motor apart – I cleaned it up and fixed a loose connection in the parking locating switch, located on top of the motor/gear with a yellow and a Blue/red wire exiting from it. The problem is now that the wipers are continuously with the stick switch at the steering wheel in the off position (motor running “backwards” compared to normal operation) I figured out, that the motor running “backwards” is probably correct and then it ought to stop when it meets a certain position and the switch is activated – but it never happens, and I suspect that the switch is activated at all times, and there is a problem with the wiring or relays. The wipers still only complete half a sweep in the intermediate position – then the relay inside the car switches off Otherwise seems the wiper action a little stronger after the cleaning and re-greaseing of the motor. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix my problems with the parking and intermediate operation of my wipers? Regards Lars Peter

Carguyinok No doubt that some products are able to improve the smoothens of the windscreen to a point where the wipers become unnecessary – but it would be nice to have them operate properly anyway! Chris Headlights with integrated parking lights is probably the more sophisticated solution – It’s also presents a cleaner look of the car. I can not remember the name of the shop – if you end up needing some we’ll figure it out! PM me the address of your shop then I definitely drop by!

Esprist It’s not that I absolutely must have a new wiper motor – it’s just if a new motor solves the problems with the parking and intermediate operation, then that might be the way to go. It’s also clear that a good cleanup of the motor, relay and linkage components will make the system perform better. Basically it’s not so much the speed of operation as it is the failure to park and the long wait in between the intermediate operations that bothers me. So anything that solves these two problems I am willing to do. Chris Thank you for the link – now at least I have a circuit diagram of the wiper system! That might shed some light on things! I bought the small front parking light at a general auto accessory store located at Lyngby S-train station, but I guess you are able to buy them anywhere. I made the brackets myself and installed them at the front bumper(fender) brackets.

Hi Everybody I have a windscreen wiper question. Beside the slow operation of my windscreen wipers which seems to be standard on a 35 years old 240z I have 2 additional problems! First the wipers does not park when I turn of the wipers – they just stop where ever they are! And second when I run the wipers in intermediate operation the wipers only covers a little more than half the distance – for example if I turn them on (in intermediate operation) when they are parked at the bottom of the windscreen they go up and return something like an inch back from the “vertical” position – after what seems like forever they go down and returns up about two inches – forever – up returns three inches – and so on, you get the idea! From my limited knowledge of electrics and windscreen wiper operation systems I guess that the parking and intermediate operation of the wiper is controlled by the wiper relay but I don’t know how to test it or if it maybe a result of an old and worn wiper motor. Do you have any idea of what I could do to restore the wiper parking and intermediate operation back to normal? Later on I plan to install a modern (91 Civic) wiper motor! Would that solve all the problems? Regards Lars Peter

Suspense release time… yes it’s a Triumph TR 3A – picture below. Chris I vent to summit the papers in order to pay the registration tax expecting a lot of bureaucracy and processing time of 3-4 weeks, but was very pleased to learn that it only took about 5 minutes. Because the car is over 35 years old the registration tax is based on the original price of the car in 1973 – it all ends to a total registration tax of DKK 13655 ($2350) Your right – The picture is not from Nørrebronx The car is at my parents place on Fyn. Dave Nice insight into the world of car electrics – an area that always seems like black magic to me:confused:

Thanks guys for the comments. I just handed in my master thesis and awaits a date for the oral presentation which have top priority right now, but I expect to have the car finished and on the street by the start of March. In order to make it legal in Denmark I had to retrofit some white parking lights facing forward – the side marker lights needed to be converted to turn signals (the rear ones need amber “glass”) and I had to install euro style tail lights. Because the car is more than 35 years old there is no emission requirements – so that’s easy! The VIN number is HLS30 136321 – production date December 1972. Chris Let’s keep it in English in here! I live at Nørrebro just by Sankt Hans Torv. Nice to see another Dane in here. Not many of these cars around in Denmark – I personally have never seen one “live” (other than my own). Sure we have to meet up – as stated above I will have it on the streets by the start of March. What about your car – did it needed some work or is you already driving it around? Tuomo I had to smile when I saw that you come from Finland – I acquired some Finnish friends in connection with my studies, who seemed very fond of a 50/50 mix of vodka and cognac. Crazy but very nice guys. I guess You need something to keep you warm during the winterLOL Stephen Nicely spotted – yes its my Morris. What about the red one in the first picture with the front removed – are you able to see what that is? Picture will come tomorrow:cool: Here is a picture of my parents garage – in the foreground is my fathers Jaguar MK2 project and in the background is my Morris minor that I use every day.

And some after pictures. The seats still needs some attention, and some minor projects such as wheels, sidestripes and stereo upgrade awaits in the future.