HS30-H

Mat, I thought I was hallucinating when I first read some of the things written on this thread, so I know how you feel. When I was first asked my opinion on this particular car ( by the previous owner ) I did bring up the possibility that the firewall VIN stamp could have been ( expertly ) "tampered with" by a previous owner some time in the dark and distant past. Not having had the opportunity to look closely at the car in the metal, it is hard to come to an opinion on whether that is the case or not. If I was going to have a close look at it, I'd want to see the reverse side of that firewall panel just as much as the outside face. I believe there is no stamped VIN tag present with the car that would also show engine type, taxation class etc (?). I'm sorry Kent, but you wrote ".....that is what I gather." and you appeared to agree with it. That's the way I read it, anyway. The more people that do that, the more conjecture and inaccurate supposition becomes accepted as - yes - "fact". My intention is not to attack you, just what you are repeating and effectively endorsing. In my opinion, and based on common sense just as much as what we could call 'facts' about the factory KPGC110s, it would be plain daft to believe that Nissan 'used up' spare and unused C110 GT-R bodyshells to make different C110 models, and not change the VIN prefixes on them. Do people honestly believe that thousands of 'KPGC110' VIN-prefixed bodyshells were made? The car in question has a body serial number in the five thousands whilst the known factory C110 GT-Rs sold to the public didn't even make it over three digits - so where are all the others? This car doesn't even appear to have some of the main characteristics of a true C110 GT-R bodyshell - so how can anyone say that it is "....one of the chassis left over from the GT-R production run."???!!! I'm not sure that you understand what I'm getting at? I'm talking about the characteristics of the bodyshell itself, and not the parts that were attached to it. The factory GT-R 'Overfenders' were FRP mouldings that were pop-riveted to the body structure. The rear quarters and inner arch panel pressings of the GT-R were different to all the other models. That's a FUNDAMENTAL difference in the actual sheetmetal of the cars, and the car in question does NOT appear to have the GT-R style pressings and structure ( at least according to the information supplied to me by the former owner ), so how can it have been a GT-R bodyshell? I'm not talking about stuff that was bolted onto the car ( that's a whole other can of worms ), I'm talking about structure. Have you seen a real C110 GT-R with its Overfenders removed? If you have, then you will know what I am talking about. Hold on Brian. I only stated that C110 GT-R production is noted as starting in January 1973. I didn't say that they were all made in January 1973, and I didn't say when production is noted as having finished. I don't see why a true C110 GT-R couldn't have been made in August 1973 or thereabouts - so the build date doesn't really tell us one thing or another, as far as I can see. Alan T.

Whoa, whoa, whoa there gentlemen! The facts are getting somewhat forgotten here with some of the excitement. With all due respect to the former owner - and now the new owner - of this car, I'll try to make some objective observations whilst still being polite. Since when did this become a "fact"? Does anybody really believe that Nissan had several thousand C110 GT-R bodies hanging around in a corner of their factory waiting to become something else???!!! Let's get real here, please! The GT-R models ( unlike our beloved S30-series Z range ) were very well documented right from the start of their production run, and the chassis numbers of all the C110 GT-Rs sold to the general public ( and even the ones that were not ) are well known to arch enthusiasts and marque / model experts in Japan. I think you may have been misinformed? The C110 GT-R model had special high-clearanced rear quarter panel pressings that were spotwelded to the inner arch panels, and these are quite clearly visible when the ( FRP ) rear overfenders are removed. I don't believe the car in question left the factory with these rear quarters, and the overfenders seen on the car now are not factory-fitted items. It clearly has a VIN PREFIX of 'KPGC110' - but the body serial number does not conform to the KPGC110 sequence ( it is WAY too high - the C110 GT-R never got past three digits ). The body also seems to lack many of the C110 GT-R-specific details ( especially in the engine bay ) so - let's be clear about this - the VIN prefix on the car doesn't make any sense. I don't know where this guy got his information, but - and I'll try to be polite about this - it is just nonsense. All Nissan VIN prefixes ( certainly in the case of the S30-series Z cars and the C10 and C110 Skylines ) had their own body serial number sequences. Hence we would - theoretically - be able to stand outside the factories concerned and pull out S30-00030, HLS30-00030, PS30-00030 and HS30-00030, as well as GC10-000051, PGC10-000051, KPGC10-000051, GC110-000051 and KPGC110-000051 etc etc. There was no mixing-and-matching of body serial sequences across VIN prefixes - why would there be? How would that make any sense? #005370 is "early" for what VIN prefix series though? I don't get what you are saying here? 'GC110' VIN prefix production started around September 1972, but 'KPGC110' VIN prefix production started around January 1973 according to marque & model expert records ( and Nissan themselves ). Are apples being compared to oranges here? To cut a long story short, all we really have here is an anomalous VIN number and body serial number combination, and a body that was ( reportedly, as it has been greatly modified since then ) factory fitted with running gear and other details that did not fit the VIN prefix. There are a lot of questions about all this, so please let's not kid ourselves that we are looking at a real C110 GT-R here, and let's not take too seriously the idea that somebody could "....resell the car to somebody in Japan for big bucks......". Alan T.

Mike, The original Nissan triple-outlet hard fuel line is still available in Japan - the same one as they used to sell with the triple carb kits. Last time I looked the retail price was around 4,500 JPY or so. I think it is a neat, effective and unobtrusive solution. I use one on one of my cars ( apologies for the crap photo ):

Joris, Adrian might not be able to answer you straight away, as I believe he is away racing in South Africa at the moment........... 3023 includes all of the Group 2 & Group 3 stuff as well, and of course some of those parts were shared with Group 4 & even Group 5. As you have found out, the homologation ran out on some parts in period and were therefore no longer allowed. I think I can see the confusion that this might cause, and it might lead you up the wrong path as far as the build and spec of your car. However, I think you might be taking somewhat of a wrong approach to this. In most of the events and series that your car will be eligible to race in, it is more important for the spec of the car to satisfy the scrutineers and organisers of the event than the FIA themselves ( and who would interpret the FIA spec anyway? ). You also have to convince your fellow competitors that your car is not giving you an unfair advantage over them! Most organising bodies will welcome a Group 3, 4 or 5 spec Z with open arms, as it helps to break up the hordes of Porsches and the other 'usual suspects' that make up the majority of the field. They like the variety, so you might find that they are relatively lenient towards you and your car. I think it is the organisers that you need to talk to rather than the FIA, and for most organisers simple proof of 'period use' within the years concerned is enough to keep them happy. I recently assisted in proving period use of 15 inch diameter wheels in FIA-sanctioned events, for example. To be honest it is sometimes better not to go into fine detail on this kind of subject online........... Alan T.

Diagnosing carburettor jetting, tuning and setup 'online' is a thankless task! You can't blame people for not wanting to get involved, as there are far too many possible variables that come into play. Having said that, you should be able to get fairly close to optimal jetting on paper if you know the carbs themselves are in good condition and without twisted butterfly spindles etc. First of all, what series of 45DCOE do you have ( series type should be stamped on the top covers ) and do you know their origin? Did they come from another known car / engine ( used ) or are they new out of the box? What size are all your other jets, and the emulsion tubes? Do you happen to know what accelerator pump jet actuating rods are installed ( this should be linked to the series type - that's why I ask )? No disrespect intended, but often these kinds of problems turn out to be due to many things other than the carburettors themselves, or indeed due to inexperienced tinkering............. Final twiddling is always best carried out by an experienced rolling road operator who knows his way around carbs. Unless you are prepared to go through a lot of trial and error it might be best to stump up the cash and take the car to somebody else.

Yesh. Here's one that popped up a few years ago in an unexpected place. Full identity hidden to respect the privacy of the owner:

Roger, The only information I have came to me anecdotally, from people employed by Nissan in Japan at the time. One of my friends in Japan says he really wants to get a good UK-market 'RS30' model, to recreate one of Nissan's long lost phantom models: The Nissan 'Fairlady 260Z'. Apparently the problem was most serious on the aircon-equipped cars, and particularly when they were caught up in heavy stop-start traffic during hot weather. Cars were suffering serious fuel vapourisation issues, and dealers could not get a good balance between air-con off and air-con on settings ( the kind of problems that would soon to be eliminated with fuel injection ). They were being forced to make changes that would cause the cars to fail Japan's extremely strict emissions laws ( some of the strictest in the world at that point, I believe ) and a proper cure would have meant a complete re-design of the fuel system and maybe even different carbs. I'm told that Nissan decided to cut their losses, recall the problem cars ( buying them back from customers in some cases ) and fit them with L20A engines instead. The bulkhead VIN stamps were altered to suit, and new metal VIN plates attached to the inner wings ( fenders ). The L20A engine design already had a few years of development and production under its belt ( in a wide variety of models ) and didn't suffer from the same issues as the L26 in the Japanese spec. As I mentioned before, this was not highly publicised by Nissan and the whole issue was somewhat covered up. I still have never seen a Japanese service bulletin or any other Nissan-sourced document that mentions it. I think only a few hundred cars were affected. I think the spec of the domestic L26 concerned would have been different to the export spec L26 ( different carbs and more emissions equipment at least ) so that's why they treated them differently. I don't know the full ins-and-outs of the story, but it is an intriguing story. I would have thought that they would need to change emblems on the cars that were sent back out ( re-badged as 'Fairlady Z' models instead of 'Fairlady 260Z' models ) and this - along with the re-stamping of the firewall VIN and the engine change - might even have made it necessary to repaint the cars. And like most of these kinds of story, it is difficult to pin down the truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth. I think Nissan would probably prefer us not to know! Alan T.

I'm not sure I quite understand your question. Body serial numbers don't mean anything unless they are linked to a prefix that identifies the model type being counted. Seeing as the '2+2' ( '2/2' in Japan ) is a completely different body type to any of the 2-seater models, it stands to reason that they wouldn't be counted with the same body number sequence. It is the MODEL VARIANT PREFIX that is being counted. So - in your local market case, for example - you could theoretically have had 'RLS30-000260' ( a 2-seater '260Z' model ) and 'GRLS30-000260' a 2+2 '260Z' model ) parked side-by-side in a dealer's showroom. You're missing the point about the full VIN number on your '71 '240Z' model. The body serial number on that particular car is part of the sequence that counts 'HLS30' bodies, and nothing else.

And that post is one more reason to think that 'DRBall' is a xenophobic simpleton.

You might want to try and replicate the original pieces, which had a lip on them ( for added strength I think ). The outside one had a distinct 'ear' on it to clear the sill seam. Crap photo ( apologies ) attached below to illustrate: If you're coming to UK in June you'll want to see Kevin & Gary's cars I should think? I'll see what I can arrange for you.

Have you got the attachment point strengtheners that were welded to the floor on cars that were equipped with the passenger footrest from the factory? Those are the most difficult bits to get in my experience ( for obvious reasons ). I've got a spare footrest if you need a better one........?

The 432 had a steel bonnet ( hood ). I think you are getting it confused with the 432-R, which had an FRP bonnet. The car you pictured above is a genuine 432-R, and the pictures were taken at a temporary display on the ground floor of Nissan's main showroom in Ginza, Tokyo ( not a museum, unfortunately ). The car on eBay has a slightly confusing description. As it has an 'S30' VIN prefix it obviously started life as either a 'Fairlady Z' ( S30-S model ) or 'Fairlady Z-L' ( S30 model ), and I'd say it was more likely the latter given the evidence of what remains from the original spec. Therefore any mention of '240Z' is inaccurate, as it is clearly neither an Export model 'Datsun 240Z' or one of the domestic market 'Fairlady 240Z' models ( 'HS30-S' / 'HS30' / 'HS30-H' etc ). I'd like to hear the full VIN / body serial number combo to date it properly.

No, the F5C71-B transmission was a DIRECT FIFTH gear unit, with a 'Dog Leg First' shift pattern ( nicknamed the "Low Back" in Japan ) as First gear was selected in the same plane as Reverse gear - with Second, Third, Fourth and Fifth in the normal 'H' pattern. This was not an Overdrive transmission. Don't get it mixed up with the FS5C71-B ( note that extra letter S in there ) which was an Overdrive trans, and with a conventional shift pattern. Carl, What look like small numerical differences in overall gearing on your chart actually - in the opinions of many - translate into very noticeable differences in the hands-on driving experience. I don't think legal speed limits have very much to do with it to be honest. If they did, the designers might just as well have given us all two speed trannies........ I've seen you mention before that you think the five-speed transmissions fitted to non-USA market car were to make up for a lack of power, which is curious when you consider that all other market models had a five speed available from the beginning of production and sales. The fact is that the HLS30-U models were given the 4-speed trans as standard equipment because it was part of the cost-cutting effort and effective 'dumbing down' for one market sector, and a perceived image of the potential customer base of that period.

Arne, I believe the R&T magazine data would refer to the HLS30U models when equipped with the FS5C71-A ( as an "option" ), no? I have a 1970 FSM ( this particular edition primarily aimed at the HLS30U models ) and it clearly states the 3.9 diff ratio to be paired with the FS5C71-A. See the attached scan: The 3.9 diff ratio is a nice pairing with the FS5C71-A transmission ratios, and I never understand why some people who purposely select a sports/GT car would seem to be so frightened of using peak revs and staying in the power band for longer. Curious.

No. They came with the 3.90 diff ratio. Anybody who wants a 3.36 gear in an S30-series Z with less than 200 WHP probably should have bought a four door sedan instead. :classic:

The Marty DiBergi version: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=11896&cat=3069

1969 and 1970 year production 'Fairlady Z' ( S30-S base model ) and 'Fairlady Z-L' ( S30 luxury model ) both shared the 'S30' VIN prefix. The trim and accessories ( and some of the mechanicals up to a point ) will help you to differentiate between the two. I'd expect a 1969~1970 build car to have a number between 'S30-00001' and 'S30-04504' Also take a look to see if the engine-bay VIN plate is still present - it is attached to the driver's side inner wing ( fender ) and those on Japanese-market cars are written in Japanese ( but the VIN is in a combination of roman letters and arabic numerals ). This plate might also have some extra information to help you identify the car, as the Japanese taxation class data is coded into it. I'd try to find the engine number too. You will find this stamped on a cast pad at the rear area of the block, just underneath the cylinder head / block joint and on the side of the engine that has the spark plugs. Try to get the full number and the prefix too. There is always the slight possibility that it could actually turn out to be a 1971 build-dated car, and if it was built towards the end of the year then there is the added complication that it could be a 'Fairlady 240Z' ( HS30-S model ) or 'Fairlady 240Z-L' ( HS30 model ) - which both used the L24 engine and both shared the 'HS30' VIN prefix. Again, VIN number will tell the tale and trim / accessories present or not present will tell the rest of the story. If it is an RHD Export-market car made in the 1969~1973 period, then it will have an 'HS30' VIN prefix too. Let us know how you get on.

Why? You make it sound like that would be a disaster. It could be quite the opposite. dashtonn, I'd say the most important thing here is a 100% positive identification of model and specification. Then you know what you are dealing with. See if you can find the full VIN number / body serial number stamped on the firewall of the car ( above the brake booster, underneath a few wires and tubes ). That will help us to positively identify the model. The trim and accessories will help to identify the specification. There are people here that can help you pin it down. The key point there being the "......in North America....." bit. A true 1969 or 1970 build date RHD Z car ( yes - especially even a 'Fairlady Z' or 'Fairlady Z-L' ) is worth MORE in overall world terms than an LHD model in similar condition. That's a function of rarity, desirability ( outside the USA/Canada ) and the relative weak exchange rate of the $US at the moment. So all one needs to do is put the car in front of the right buyer. dashtonn, if it really is a 1969 or 1970 build-dated RHD model, then I would be interested in buying it myself. Just thought I'd give you a little encouragement to show you that it is just a matter of putting the car in front of the right people should you ever wish to sell it. Good luck, Alan T.

Woah, slow down there. Don't raise false hopes and unrealistic expectations. Since when was the current highest bid on an unfinished auction a "price"? Especially when ( as Alfadog pointed out ) you can see that it is MILES away from his B.I.N. price.............. Nice! I'll give that my QC hanko any day of the week. Do it. :classic:

Maybe you don't, but you might need to make an appointment with a doctor to get his opinion on the symptoms of Tourette's Syndrome that you are displaying. :classic:

Its got a fair amount of what I would call black in it. Depends how well you stir it, and how deep your mixing stick goes into the slurry at the bottom of the can before you drip it over the side. Not much point in me taking a colour photo of the colour and posting it here, really. I don't think it would prove anything. The subtleties are too fine in daylight, let alone on a computer screen. It is a colour that is claimed to be 'Nissan Jidosha, Charcoal Grey Metallic' for the detail parts on a factory ZG, however. That'll do for me. :-)