HS30-H

You might want to make sure that the number is being described correctly. Possibly HS30-101342 or HS30-013420? I would not rule it out.... Would not be the first time that this has happened, as I've seen it many times. My 1970 S30 was mis-described on import to the UK and was listed as an "HS30" on the official UK ownership document ( V5 ). The DVLA ( Driver and Vehicle Licensing Authority ) are famously useless when you throw something out of the ordinary at them. If in doubt, check the actual Factory stamping on the firewall and trust it more than any of the non-Factory supplied paperwork. You can approximately date the car by cross-referencing many other factors ( Factory parts dating / Factory-supplied documents etc ) as has already been mentioned. Alan T.

Don't worry, Alfadog. I had the same problem - and my operation worked out just fine. It didn't hurt too much, and there were not that many side-effects. The main problem is remembering to speak with a low voice rather than my natural high-pitched squeak. You can't see the join, either..................

Some might not realise that there was yet another version of the earliest interior rear-view mirrors. This was from the 'no frills' base-level Fairlady Z ( S30-S ) and it had no knob on it at all - it had no 'Night' anti-dazzle position. This was also seen on the 432R, which shared many of the 'no frills' touches of the S30-S in an attempt to save weight. *96321-E4100 BACK MIRROR arse'Y - inside ( S30-S & PS30-SB ) ( no Anti-Dazzle position ) *96321-E4600 BACK MIRROR arse'Y - inside *96321-E4601 BACK MIRROR arse'Y - inside I wonder if the E4600 is the "Red Dot" type and the E4601 is the "Sun & Star" type that very quickly superseded it? Alan T.

Here's a sticker that they used on the oil cap of the S20 engine:

Nissan's "Elephant" brand oils and fluids were indeed named after successes in the East African Safari Rally. They predate the Z car by some years. They used several different versions of the elephant logo over the years. Here's one that they used in Factory parts manuals;

Hi Kats, I would think that your guess is correct, and that the round-shaped knob was superseded by the squared-off one - but they had a large stock of the earlier shape and simply wanted to use them all up first. That would make most sense from a logistical point of view. I can imagine that a moulded part like that would be made in the thousands in no time at all, and big stock would easily build up. If Matsuo san and his team then decided to change the shape it would mean making a new injection mould or modifying the old one. More to the point though, WHY did they change the shape? Was it simply to make it more ergonomic? I have always been surprised that the slot for the deleted hand throttle lever on the Export cars was simply closed with a blanking plate until the new single-lever design came in. I would have thought that it would have been fairly easy to design and make a new plastic trim piece that deleted the unused slot altogether until the new console design was phased in. There must have been other factors involved that dictated a necessity to close the unused slot with a blanking plate for many thousands of cars ( ? ). Again, I think all this is possibly yet another indicator of the unexpectedly good sell-through of the Export cars. I'm sure Matsuo san and his team, Nissan Shatai and all Nissan's suppliers were slightly taken by surprise at the sales figures - and were struggling to keep up with demand. Alan T.

As Nixcars says - NO CHANCE! The S20 block and head are completely different designs to the L-series sixes, and they do NOT interchange. Here's a pic of an upturned S20 head. I think you can see that - quite apart from all the problems of sorting out oil-pump, distributor and cam drives - it won't even bolt up..............

Zedrally has abundant hair! I'm jealous. Victor, make me a cocktail out of that stuff - but hold the Kahlua.

Steve, If that's you in the middle - how come your daughter looks so much like the guy on the right? Maybe you should listen to that record 'How come my dog don't bark when you come around?'..............:paranoid:

Don't you think its bad enough?! And its the super-low seating position in the Group A car that's making me look like a shrimp. Honest. They sit virtually on the floor in those things. Bambi, its Joseph Conrad. He wrote "Heart Of Darkness" - which inspired Apocalypse Now. Bit of a bleak novel, but not bad for a Russian writing in English ( his third language ). "by the power of the written word..........before all, to make you see". ( Conrad ). Alan T.

Perfect this time Carl! Klink was funny, but I think Victor's mugshot has 'something of the night' about it - so its got to be Walter Kurtz. Very scary. Victor, I had a very different image of you in my head. Now I can't imagine you in a Fairlady Roadster! Lots of good quotes in that movie. Screenwriter was Michael Herr ( of "Dispatches" fame ) and it was loosely based on 'Heart Of Darkness" by Conrad. All very dark. "Never get out of the boat!"

Kylie. Now there's a thought. A very nice thought. OK - here's a rare shot of me. Usually I avoid cameras, mirrors and bright sunlight:

Colonel Kurtz! The horror.................

Quite right Peter. Bambikiller, what were you thinking of?! I'd much rather be Keaton than Chaplin. The pic represents the inner me, as opposed to the 'container'. It's just how I feel at the moment..............

Rick - You are looking great for your age, but wearing a hat is cheating. Show us what's underneath it ( if anything ):classic:

Great first post! No.2 and No.3 doing well too. Here's hoping that the limp wristed "foriegner" who built your car managed to torque all the nuts and bolts properly :classic:

What's a "foriegner"?

Bruce, With respect, I think you are fooling yourself. What's the point in trying to be 'closer' than the Factory default jettings for a starting point? It reminds me of the saying "If you want to get THERE, don't start from HERE" ................ Since every single engine is different ( and ideal jetting even depends on your local atmospheric conditions on the day of set-up ) your engine will require a pretty-much unique combination of jetting, idle mixture setting, spark timing and advance curve. If you get it set up on a rolling-road dyno ( as advised ) then you are going to have to change jets / air correctors on the dyno at the very least. It seems to me to be pretty-much pointless to use somebody else's jettings as a base-line if you are still going to be changing them on the dyno, no? The stock 44PHH Mikuni jetting for the L-series sixes ( as recommended by Nissan's tech staff ) sold as Sports Option parts was as follows: MAIN VENTURI = 37mm MAIN JET = 160 AIR CORRECTOR JET = 180 PILOT JET = 55 EMULSION TUBE ( "JET BLOCK" ) = 8 You shouldn't need to change any of the other parts for a street ( as opposed to balls-out 'race' ) engine. Where did your Mikunis come from? You have to be careful and check that your standard settings ( as received ) are near to the above numbers. They may very well have originally been sold for a different application than your Nissan L-series six; Mikuni supplied carbs for triple side-draught conversions by the likes of Sanyo Kiki ( SK ) and other companies from the late 1960's onwards. Make sure you are not bolting on a set of carbs that originated from something as esoteric as a blow-through turbo application or a collection of three carbs that were meant to be used singly on a four cylinder engine. There are lots of 'strays' knocking around in the used market................. If your Emulsion Tubes are marked "OA" or "OB" on top then you would be well advised to seek out a set of six "8" types and install them instead. This will be a great help with driveability and part-throttle response. The OA and OB are best left to racers, and are not as good as the 8 for the street. I would not be tempted to mess around with the positions for the accelerator pump stroke if I were you. There are three positions to choose from, and I would see what the dyno man says first. Altering the accel pump stroke has a great effect on transition and driveability too - but the Factory setting is the best baseline. Leave well alone unless you know what you are doing and are ready to change it back again. The Factory-supplied settings ( if they closely match the numbers quoted above ) should be enough to get you running fairly well and allow you to attempt to synchronise the idle air mixture to a smooth and balanced level. After that, make a trip to the rolling road dyno ( with a few spare main jets and air jets on hand ) and get it done right. Good luck! Alan T.