Everything posted by HS30-H
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Posts nos. 88 & 89 in this thread answer those questions, I'd say.
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Since the screen pillars ('A') and rear quarter/roof joint ('C') are both finished with lead-loading, any hypothesis of them being "designed to flex" (I would say more likely 'expected to flex'...) would have to apply to both, no? I'm struggling to think of any other cosmetically-observable area on the bodyshells of these cars which is similarly 'filled' before paint. Nissan Shatai didn't bother to pretty up the joint between the rear quarter panels and the lower rear apron (spotwelds nicely visible and always a pleasure to see...) and I can't think of any other points on the body where - all opening panels closed - filling/joint disguising before paint was necessary. If I'm right, those lead-loaded joints are the only cosmetically-enhanced/filled-before-paint joints on the whole car. The 'designed to flex' thing seems like an answer looking for a question.
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
...and here's a right-hand rear quarter roof/quarter joint with rear quarter panel removed (spotwelds drilled out), blasted and etch-primed: It's a complicated joint - the meeting point of roof outer panel, roof rear crossmember/hatch hinge mount/roof longitudinal rail/rear quarter. Perhaps not surprising that it required lead-loading.
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
Here's a right-hand front pillar joint without the lead loading (blasted and etch primed). Spotwelds visible:
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
To digress sightly from the thread's main subject (sorry OP), here's an example of what the cars were going through on rallies: English team Withers Of Winsford entered an ex-Works Fairlady Z-emblemed Datsun 240Z rally car - wearing the personalised UK license plate 'CAL 1' of company owner Mr Cal Withers - in the 1973 TAP Rally of Portugal, driven by hotshoe Englishman Chris Sclater and navigated by Dutch specialist Bob De Jong. The service crew were forced to repair the screen pillar joints - which were parting company - mid-event, assisted by the staff of Portuguese Datsun distributors Entreposto. They took the screen out and either brazed or gas-welded the pillars back together... At that point the car had already taken part in the 1972 Acropolis Rally in Greece and the 1972 RAC Rally in the UK. Perhaps not surprising that the bodyshell was starting to get a little bit 'baggy'...
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
In my experience, the joints were usually spotwelded. However, I have seen a couple of bodies that had brazed joints (perhaps even spotwelded AND brazed).
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
The lead-loading is cosmetic. It covers what would otherwise be unsightly joints and is intended to be (slightly) resistant to flexing, but it is not the fixing method of the panels.
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
This car is a lot better than I initially imagined. Very encouraging!
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Finally found a 69 240z, #51 Time to finish a 30 year multiple owner restoration.
The dots around ASAHI give you the YEAR of manufacture, and the dots around TEMPERLITE and LAMISAFE give the month.
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My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
I've seen the occasional example of user/owner-added single or twin bolts through the baseplate and inner wheelarch. A kind of belt-and-braces approach that certainly would help when the baseplate 'floats' slightly above the inner wheelarch. They could also have been added at the request of scrutineers/safety inspectors. Pretty soon they were mandating welded-in cage mounts for certain race classes and this prompted some car owners to weld in sections of the factory safety bar, like this rough and ready period example:
- 1970 HLS30-06521 Re-Restoration
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Kyusha House Electronic Fuel Pump Bracket
In fact the mount and the captive nuts in the crossmember to which it is affixed date back to the original design of the car, as they were used on the S20-powered Fairlady Z432 and Fairlady Z432-R models and on the factory aircon-equipped Fairlady Z-L model.
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Kyusha House Electronic Fuel Pump Bracket
Measuring a legitimate, registered, presumably tax-paying business against your own garden shed-based activities is not necessarily a valid comparison. Kyusha House is not a charity. If you don't like the price, don't buy. If you can make your own, do it (I did). When you go into business making them, be sure to give us all a heads-up.
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Does an LSD need better cooling?
:polite cough:
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New Nissan L-Series Head, Maybe?
I often see this written on stickers inside phone booths. Haven't dialled the supplied number though. Not my cup of tea, that.
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New Nissan L-Series Head, Maybe?
All the English language media reports are talking about the cylinder head, but NISMO presented the TLX as a complete engine, not just a cylinder head. 10k USD? Dream on.
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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
Agreed, but - beyond that - 99% of the discussion around the Grande Nose of the HS30-H model seems to treat it as though it was some kind of aesthetic makeover. It misses the whole point. Its real reason for existence was to homologate parts to which other - more extreme - parts could be hung off for race purposes. The fact that some of us (me included) find the HS30-H model attractive is probably by-the-by. It could be argued that the 240ZG was somewhat out of date in its styling, consciously or sub-consciously referencing the curves of 60s cars like the Ferrari 275 GTB when the more angular Ferrari 365 GTB had already outdated it in aerodynamic terms as well as aesthetics. The homologation specials which came after them for Group 4 and then Group B would look more angular and more brutal, but that in itself has its attractions.
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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
And it is much appreciated, Kats. Your presence and participation on classiczcars has been invaluable and a vital conduit to helping us understand the cars themselves, the history behind them and the people who created them. You are one of their best ambassadors. Thank you. It goes over a lot of heads but I've believe that, to properly appreciate and understand any single one of our cars, it is necessary to understand its siblings; the cars which were conceived, designed, engineered and produced alongside it. I own both RHD and LHD versions. Japanese market, UK market and USA market S30-series Z variants. Taking each one of them completely apart and going through the process of reassembly is both fascinating and educational. It is possible to observe the great efforts the designers and engineers went to in ensuring that each variant worked well whilst accommodating the other variants in their contemporary family. Look closely and you can see details that were incorporated in the fabric of the cars in order to cater for one particular market or one particular variant, hiding in plain sight. A good example being the preparation for factory air conditioning that was present on all models whilst it was only available in one of them. Most owners don't notice... Kats, we have discussed in the past how ownership of both Domestic and Export variants has helped both of us to understand and appreciate the cars more fully, right? It would be great if more owners and enthusiasts could share that experience or, if not, at least take note of the possibilities it offers.
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1970 240Z Works Rally - the road to restoration
Lancashire Automobile Club have uploaded another of navigator Mike Wood's films to YouTube. This episode covers Mike's participation in the 1971 Monte Carlo Rallye with driver Tony Fall in Nissan Works 240Z rally car 'TKS 33 SA 986'. This very car...
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Does an LSD need better cooling?
The R180 alloy rear covers were manufactured using the pressure die casting process, so there will be some fundamental differences in comparison to any of the casting techniques being discussed here.
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1970 240Z Works Rally - the road to restoration
I believe the long-term previous owner of your car was an amateur aviator? My impression was that he stuck the Works key tag Kanri number on the car's dash in the way that a civil aircraft's registration ID is often seen on its dash: Using it to cover the hole left by the Grayston pen holder would kill two birds with one stone. Here's a photo of one of the Works cars from the 1971 RAC Rally of GB. Key fob tag just about visible under there, and with rounded corners like yours: Works 'Kanri' (maintenance) numbers are a tricky topic by their nature. These were Nissan's internal ID codes for the individual Works cars, not for us to use or necessarily to understand. Even the service barges had them, but sometimes they did not appear on the cars. Here's a photo I took of the Kanri number on the '71 East African Safari winner, before the car was 'refreshed' a few years ago (in my opinion it didn't need half of what they did to it, but there you go...). The number is on a clear oblong sticker with the letters and numbers in a kind of golden reflective material:
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Does an LSD need better cooling?
Some quite hare-brained 'solutions' being offered here. The original question was answered in period by the factory in their Race & Rally Preparation manuals. They recommended cooling of the oil by means of a pump and small heat exchanger, giving data for drilling the diff housing and rear cover for the insertion of tubes to collect the oil and then spray (cooled) oil on the CW&P: A similar electric pump & cooler system was adopted as standard equipment on some of the S130-series variants and up into S31-series. Rear covers with extra oil capacity and cooling fins are all well and good, but positive circulation, cooling and the directed spray of cooled oil are going to be more effective. A lot depends on on how 'tight' your LSD setting is. Generally speaking, high breakaway settings generate more heat.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
And you are an active participant who has quite clearly taken sides. Own it.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection
This "insult" you refer to was simply an analogy for consistent belief held in the face of a mountain of evidence to the contrary. Hardly enough to spark an international incident, is it? Your post #2547 was far more divisive for the forum, and personally insulting. You are encouraging the taking of sides against people rather than against matters of opinion or the interpretation of historical anecdote. You have made absolutely no attempt at engaging on the actual subject being discussed. And all this when you can't even get my username right. A good look in the mirror might be appropriate at this time.
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Z's on BAT and other places collection