Everything posted by HS30-H
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Looking for engine L24-063102
Ha ha ha "Mr Pot, meet Mr Kettle...." Carl, I'd take you a lot more seriously on this subject if I thought you you knew what such a tag was called in Japan when the car was being made. You know, that far away country that existed solely to make Zs for the USA and ( sometimes ) Canada. Of course, we all use the convenient label of "VIN tag" when we are talking about this stuff because we are all trying to talk about the same thing and minimise the confusion. It's just vernacular, and as long as everyone realises what is being discussed, and that the subject is something of a moving target ( with regional market and familial model differences ) then all should be well. Just like when you talk about the "door jam tag", but I know you actually mean 'door jamb tag'. *Unless there's an obscure flavour of jam that I have never heard of......... Groundhog day again, I see. I have pointed this out to you on this forum many times, but it just never seems to sink in. Maybe it is because you think the Japanese market cars ( or at least some of them? ) are "irrelevant", or maybe you just have trouble remembering, but NOW HEAR THIS: "First Generation" Japanese market S30-series Zs do not have their engine block number stamped anywhere on the car except on the engine block itself. Print that out and hang it on the wall of your garage if you have trouble remembering it. Nope. What we can call "the VIN" ( I'll use 'Shatai Bango' for my cars, thanks ) does not contain anything more than a clue to the "Model Information". Does it differentiate between a north American market 'HLS30' prefixed car and an 'HLS30' prefixed Swiss market car? No. Does it differentiate between a domestic market 'HS30' prefixed Fairlady 240ZG and an Australian market 'HS30' prefixed 'Datsun 240Z'? No, it does not. Does it differentiate between an 'S30' prefixed Fairlady Z and an 'S30' prefixed Fairlady Z-L? Shall I go on? If you find it impossible to think of The Big Picture when it comes to this family of S30-series Z models, then I sincerely hope that others will see what you are doing and recognise it for the short-sightedness that it is. As something of a revered 'oracle' in the English language early-Z interweb ether, you need to be extra careful of what you write. Can't have a shepherd that leads his flock over the edge of a cliff, can we? Cordially, yours etc. Alan T.
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RHD 1972 Carb linkage
No, it's a little bit more complicated than that. The 'Bell Crank' and 'Bell Crank Bracket' in particular are completely different between RHD and LHD versions. Hopefully they will still be attached to his '72 RHD car, so he won't have to source or fabricate them. The ball-jointed actuating rod that sits parallel to the firewall is very long on the RHD, but if that is missing it would be fairly easy to replicate.
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RHD 1972 Carb linkage
Take a look at the attached scans, which are taken from the 1972 RHD Export market factory parts list. They should give you a pretty good idea of what you have and don't have, I hope. You don't say exactly what model of S30-series Z you have ( a 1972 Japanese market car could be any one of six different model variants ) or what kind of condition it is in, so there's no way for us to tell you what you need to source. If you need any more help, then perhaps give a few more details? I don't own any Datsuns. I own four Nissans and an Audi.
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RHD 1972 Carb linkage
I'm willing to help you in any way that I can ( I have three Japanese market S30-series Z cars ) but I'd prefer to do it here on the forum rather than in direct e-mails to you. That's what the forum is for....... You say you already have a Japanese market car, and a set of Hitachi-licensed 'SU' carbs - so you should already have most of what you need. What is missing from the base car? The stock linkage is quite simple, so you should be able to fabricate anything that is missing. What do you need?
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Rally Clock for sale on Ebay
I'm getting very strong feelings of deja vu here. I think I've heard this sales pitch story before...... It is certainly possible that PS30-00031 could have been made by 10/69, as Nissan made 72 PS30-prefixed cars before the end of 1969. However, I don't think this seller owned a Fairlady Z432 and I don't think that there is one in Germany now either....... If the car that he took the clock from still exists, then why did he take the clock out, and what went into the hole that it left? Maybe a
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What is the Correct Early Series 1 Rim Size
One of the Nissan 'Sports Options' lists for the HS30 includes pressed steel wheels sized 5.5j x 14, and with part number 40300-E4200. I would have thought these would be identical to that E4600 version? I wonder why the different part number? Interestingly, the same list includes pressed steel ( 'street' ) wheels sized 8j x 14, with part number 40300-E7200. They are quoted at zero offset, and are notably different to the magnesium eight-spoke Kobe Seiko ( 'race' ) wheels also sized at 8j x 14 and zero offset that are below them on the same list. 10j x 14 magnesium KS eight-spokes were also listed. I saw some wide Topy steels ( the 8j I think ) on an early Fairlady Z in Japan some years ago. I'm sure I took some photos of it........
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Flat black hood
Heat dissipation was certainly one concern on the Japanese race cars, but that 'look' became de rigeur at some unidentifiable point. Fashion following on from function I suspect. A big point that I didn't note in that original post was that the Works rally cars in particular had flat / satin black-painted bonnets ( hoods ) and wing ( fender ) tops to prevent reflected light from blinding the driver and navigator...... Driving in rally events - often in seasons and locations where the sun is low in the sky all day - at times of day where the sun is likely to be right in your eyes, can be downright dangerous. Sudden reflected sun glare when travelling at 140kph down a gravel road lined by trees and piles of logs, can be buttock-clenchingly surprising! During the late Sixties and early Seventies it was the 'done thing' to prep the cars this way. I don't see it on modern WRC cars, and I guess that it might have fallen out of fashion to some extent - even though the same phenomenon must be encountered. Maybe they have non-reflective sponsor's stickers and polaroid windscreens or something?!
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How to visually ID a FS5C71-A transmission?
I have four or five FS5C71A gearboxes in my garages. If you need any detail photos I could possibly drag one out into the light tomorrow and pop some shots of it. These illustrations ( especially the 4 to 5 speed 'A-type' box comparison ) might be useful too, I hope:
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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
I assume you are referring to the 'USA & Canada Parts Catalog'? In which case, what was the part number for the USA & Canada market front bumper without the rubber hole that was used before 06/70? All I see in my copy of the USA & Canada parts list is 62650-E4101 ASSY-FRONT BUMPER with an applied date up to 05/70, and the 62650-E4103 listed as an 'Op' part ( with that 06/70 'Applied From' date ). If 62650-E4101 was used up to 05/70 in the USA & Canada, and came with the corner rubbers and ( obviously ) the holes, then it would suggest that the part numbers are not corresponding - viz: In the Japanese market parts lists, 62650-E4101 is listed as the bumper used on the 'S' model ( meaning 'S30-S', or 'ZStd', or simply 'Z-S' - the no-frills 'Fairlady Z' ) which had plain, non-rubbered bumpers ( obviously ) without the holes. This plain bumper was also used on the 'PZR' 'Fairlady Z432-R. 62650-E4100 is of course the rubber-trimmed bumper used on the 'Deluxe' model 'S30' 'Fairlady Z-L', and the 'PZ' model 'PS30' 'Fairlady Z432'. I don't see 62650-E4100 listed in my copy of the USA & Canada parts lists.
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Skyline 3.0 Liter L6 Valve Cover?
Have a peep at post #41 on this thread: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20795
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Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
Excuse me for this short diversion to the thread.... Carl, I've seen you do this before, and I find it hard to understand where it comes from (?). Abbreviating 'Nissan Shatai Koki K.K.' or 'Nissan Shatai' to just "Shatai" makes no sense whatsoever. It's like abbreviating 'Fisher Body Co.' to just "Body". For the sake of clarity, I suggest we here all agree to call the company that actually built the cars we are talking about 'Nissan Shatai'. Agreed? :classic: Apologies for the diversion. Cheers, Alan T.
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"D" Cap Stamped Number
Yeah, let's not bring anything not sold in the USA into the discussion.
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"D" Cap Stamped Number
Yes, They were used on certain models in the C10-series Skyline range - from August 1968 onwards, and on certain models in the C30-series Laurel range - from April 1968 onwards. Here's a pic of some Skyline versions:
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What's the earliest Auto Z?
Well, given as you have often said that the Japanese market cars were/are "irrelevant", I would have thought it would be all too easy for you to miss it..........
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Rear Spoiler
Montezuma, Just to clarify the term: "PZR" was factory internal vernacular for the PS30-SB 'Fairlady-Z 432R' models ( "PZ" was PS30 'Fairlady-Z 432', "ZS" was S30-S 'Fairlady-Z', "ZDX" was S30 'Fairlady-ZL', etc etc ) so you could feasibly call that style of rear spoiler - especially if you sourced it direct from Japan - either "PZR" or "432R" style. It seems logical to me to use the term that identifies the source or root of the original design, or which at least points to where it came from. Everybody is of course quite free to call them what they want. However, in my opinion it seems better to make that choice after you have had all the appropriate and relevant information placed before you. I'm sure you would agree Alan T.
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Rear Spoiler
I'm stepping back up onto the old hamster wheel again...... What everybody usually calls the "BRE" rear spoiler, and what others ( as seen in this thread.... ) call the "432" rear spoiler - that's the one usually identified by the vertical ribs on its front face - would be more accurately described as the '432R' rear spoiler. This item was first seen at the press preview event held at Nissan's Ginza, Tokyo showroom on October 18th 1969, and was mounted on the PS30-SB model 'Fairlady-Z 432R' that was on display there. This model was a purpose-built homologation special, constructed and made available to the general public in very small numbers in order to legalise the model for Japanese GT racing. Nissan only needed to make 25 cars in order to qualify for the JAF GT class - so that's what they did. This rear spoiler also made it into the JAF homologation papers for the 'Fairlady-Z 432' ( NB - this is NOT the '432R' ) and 'Fairlady Z/Z-L', and also the JAF / FIA 3023 papers for the Export model 240Zs. This "PZR" rear spoiler was also included in the standard showroom model options lists for the other current Japanese domestic models of that period ( November 1969 through October 1971 ). It could be optioned at time of order, and was sometimes fitted by the dealer supplying the car to the customer. We could call it a standard Japanese extra-cost option for all models, but in Japan it is more commonly known as the '432R' rear spoiler, because that is the model that it is identified as having originated from. To sum up, this spoiler was standard equipment on the PS30-SB model 'Fairlady-Z 432-R', but was offered as an extra cost showroom catalogue option for the other models. You're a couple of years out, Carl. In October 1971 - with the introduction of the L24-engined models to the Japanese market lineup - the new 'smooth' rear spoiler ( without the distinctive vertical ribs of the 'PZR' spoiler ) was offered as an option across all Japanese market models. As far as I am aware, the ribs were deleted from the new design as they held water between them when it rained, and this water would flood across the window and into the gap between the tailgate and roof panel when the tailgate was raised......... You seem to have managed to make it sound as though Nissan 'copied' the BRE design for the 'smooth' spoiler. I'd say the opposite is far more likely. There is an illustration and instructions / dimensions for mounting of the later 'smooth' spoiler in the October 1971 factory service manual for the HS30, PS30 and S30 models. These are the exact same dimensions as the six mounting studs on the OEM early 'PZR' type ribbed rear spoiler that I sourced from Japan for my 432R replica project, and they correspond with the mounting holes for the standard smooth rear spoiler seen on all the UK export market cars. Photos: 1969 Japanese market options list, 1971 Japanese market options list close-up, and October 1971 Japanese market FSM page scan:
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Walter Mitty Historic Races
Sad to hear that Mike Cammarata has passed away....... Carl, I notice that you have updated the page on zhome.com ( it actually says "as of 24th Nov. 2008"........ so perhaps a little bit of a typo there? ) and included the page from Vintage Motorsport magazine, which also contains some errors. Since my first contact with Mike Cammarata about his car, I carried on with researching the car and driver on the Japanese side - and I have uncovered quite a lot of new data, including race reports and photos of the car in action. I'd be happy to make this available to anyone who buys the car, and wants to dig a bit deeper into the story. It's a very interesting story, and does not need to be embellished with exaggerations, misinformation and ill-informed guesses. It stands up on its own without any of that. Alan T.
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Blue engine paint
Hi Kats, I get the impression that the gentlemen at Maruyama would have painted their S20 engine blocks any colour except Nissan's blue, as a matter of policy. The S20's water pump pulley is the ( Austin ) Nissan blue though........ :classic: Well, he is a Volkswagen dealer. I think that might have something to do with it........... Alan T.
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Blue engine paint
Nissan's blue engine paint has Austin DNA. Back in the 1950s, when Nissan were assembling CKD kits of Austin cars, they were given a 'British Standard' paint code for the formulation of the engine block and ancillaries colour. It seems to have stuck. This colour is still listed on the 'British Standard' database as B.S. 18C39, with HMG ( Her Majesty's Government ) number GL31557, and 'Glidden Number' name 'Dolphin'. Alan T.
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Metal 240z Emblems/Badges?
Interestingly, the 'FairladyZ' and 'Fairlady' script emblems - and the 'Z' bonnet / hood emblem - seen on the Japanese market cars continued to be made from die-cast mazak well past 1973. When the L24-engined Japanese market models debuted in late 1971, their mazak 'Fairlady' script emblems were paired with the injection moulded plastic '240Z' emblems that were seen on the Export market cars. A metal emblem and a plastic emblem side by side...........
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RB26 Updates
I think flash photography of the stock S20 cam cover makes it look much lighter than it does in natural light. Your photo above of the KPGC110 engine bay is a case in point. That colour just seems to suck the light up and reflect it. In real life it looks miles darker, but I don't think I've seen two repainted ones in exactly the same shade anyway! Everybody seems to have their own version of the 'correct' colour......... Funnily enough, I was talking to a journalist about the S20 engine's characteristics just yesterday. Loads of people have said that they don't find the S20 very torquey at low revs, and that should be no surprise given its stroke, but I have to say that when it is matched to the right gearing ( stock diff ratio was 4.44:1 ) it is no problem at all, and you just use the revs instead. The engine in my KPGC10 is not stock of course, so it is hard to use it as a comparison, but it certainly isn't 'lumpy' ( even on 45DCOEs with big chokes it comes off idle smoothly and is very progressive ) and it is really very well behaved. Personally speaking, my impressions of an S20 in comparison to what we might call a "mildly worked" L28 is that the S20 feels so much more lively and free-breathing. Get the S20 wound up and it seems to become something different altogether. Back-to-back I'd be thinking of the relatively long stroke of the L28, and the fact that you're talking about an engine that really feels like it's almost half as big again in capacity. But a properly race tuned L6 with high compression and a serious cam is a different proposition; Best of both worlds. I love them. It'd be nice to be able to give more people the full experience of getting behind the wheel of an S20-powered car. When I first drove one ( a fairly stock Fairlady Z432 ) it was a revelation to me. I wasn't really expecting it to be such a good package, and such a good driver's car. The S20 really does punch above it's weight. I love the L-gata sixes dearly, but the S20 is a joy to work on and really fun to drive. Ultimately higher capacity will always win a horsepower race, but for me the S20 is about flavour. I believe that you will be able to capture some of the essence of that flavour with an N/A RB. Good luck!
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RB26 Updates
Kent, No S20 engine left the factory with a red cam cover. Stock colour on the C10 and C110 GT-Rs, and the 432 and 432-R model Fairlady Zs was a crackle-effect in very dark grey ( with an almost greenish tint ). Factory 'works' race S20 engines had magnesium ( as opposed to aluminium alloy ) cam covers with the extra spark plug lead retainer rings, and were usually painted straight matt black without the crackle finish. The only reason you will occasionally see red painted ones is because the owners, or some specialist workshops like Ishikawa's, painted them like that later on. Watch out for false data that tells you the works ones were red or green ( did I read this on Wikipedia once? ) which is a load of bollocks..........
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R160 ring gear into '77 R200 ?
Don't even waste any more time thinking about this, as it will not work. The '160' in R160 ( and the '200' in R200 ) refers to the diameter of the ring gear in mm. Even if you could find a way to get the R160 ring gear to sit in an R200 case, it would 20mm further away from the pinion than the R200 ring gear was. And that's not even going into the problem you would face trying to mate an R160 ring gear to an R200 pinion ( or fitting an R160 pinion into an R200 case ). If you did manage to get the whole thing buttoned up, and without too many parts left over, the best that you could hope to get out of it would be a sound rather like steam locomotives having sex for about five seconds, and then total silence.........
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eBay audacity
Sorry, I don't see an "obvious joke" let alone any "long-standing cinematic stereotypes". I won't be looking it up though. Seems you think you can now. Threats of violence to fellow members - regardless of circumstances - should be taken seriously by moderators. I don't remember seeing such things on this forum in the past, and would hope that your threats would be retracted and apologised for. Is a moderator going to have to make you do this? Let's see. Take a moment to look back thorugh this thread and see how many of your posts are edited after you hit the SUBMIT REPLY button. Perhaps you should proof-read a little more before hitting it, not to mention thinking about what you have written. At this moment you're looking like an accident waiting to happen.
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eBay audacity
OK then, how about this version: Now, is that or is that not a wish - an incitement, a threat however veiled - to violence or physical harm against Sean? Personally speaking I don't think what Sean was doing was wise ( to put it mildly ), and I think the threat of 'transferred' identities on these cars is something we should all be watching out for and trying to prevent, or flag up when discovered. But threats of physical harm are way out of order and I believe they go against both the spirit and the rules of this forum. You should retract them, and apologise. All these posts detailing US laws are moot. Sean and the 'kit' in question are located in France, and the 'kit' is no longer on eBay. We now know a chassis number that will be flagged up if it reappears should anybody be naive enough or stupid enough to try and reuse it. Job done I think. It's the chassis numbers and car identities that have not been offered so brazenly and openly that we need to be looking out for. There's a few of them in our midst. Unfortunately, if you want to point the finger at such 'zombie' cars you had better have a damned good lawyer and the funds to pay him. It can get ugly. I speak from personal experience.