HS30-H

Couple of answers from me then; First of all, as far as I understand it this is a commercial proposition. You're in business, right? You're here to sell your product but you also appear to want the help of the 'community' that you intend to sell to. Why do I have any obligation to help you with that? There are other people currently working on reproductions that I would trust - from their track record - to make a better job than you. Secondly, the classiczcars.com 'community' has - over the years - probably done more to provide you with photos and data than any other web based resource. We have discussed the nuances and details of these factory parts many times, and we have uploaded many original factory documents, period photos and examples of The Real Thing which you will no doubt have used in your research(?). I have been a participant in much of that, so I don't think I owe you anything except perhaps the honesty of a reality check... You'd probably prefer a few more sycophantic clicks on the 'Like This' button, but all those virtual claps on the back will not get you very far in the real world. I still find it hard to believe that anyone would think they can make an accurate reproduction without having an original to use as a datum point. As I've pointed out before, this is as much about the elusive *feel* of the product as it is about measurable dimensional accuracy. Anybody who has had a set of originals in their care, let alone actually fitted a set to a car, will hopefully know what I am talking about.

So you still don't have a genuine set to use as a reference? That is why I'm thinking you are unlikely to fully succeed with this project. What you call "negativity" is - where I'm looking from - probably better described as rationality. You started this thread almost exactly a year ago and you still haven't produced anything yet. You don't appear to have a sample to reverse-engineer from and you don't appear to have grasped the fine details that will be the difference between something that looks *right* and something that doesn't. For example, I see you talking about cutting countersinks for the screw holes when the originals have a pressed countersink. I think there's a very good chance that the repros from our fellow member 'esprist' - through his company jdm-car-parts.com - will hit the market before yours, and will be more faithful replicas in both detail and the all-important *feel* than you will be able to achieve.

How is it possible to make the correct profile (asymmetric 'U') channel with a waterjet? I still think you are not grasping the full detail of the parts in question. They sound - even look - simple, but they are complicated to make properly and require some quite expensive press tooling to replicate the original manufacturing method and- therefore - the original look.

Suggestion from 'A Certain Personality': How about calling it a 'vented type hatch' (as opposed to 'vented quarter') to make the difference clear? The difference being The Whole Point...

Why would I do that? I don't know anything about 'National Bearing'. However you, of course, must know something worthwhile about them (quality/metallurgy/fit/finish) in order to be urging us not to buy. So where's the data? Unless your problem with them is simply where they are made...?

What's the real point of this thread? Are we supposed to avoid 'Made In China' wheel bearings simply because they happen to have been made in China? I don't know about anyone else, but I try to buy parts based on QUALITY and AVAILABILITY. Whoever makes the best quality parts (as far as I can tell) gets my money. I should imagine most of the people who bought a 'Made in Japan' S30-series Z when it was new had roughly the same philosophy. If the particular 'Made in China' parts in question are poor quality/fit, then please show the evidence to support the claim. Likewise, if the 'Made in Brazil' parts are superior, then please demonstrate how...

For example? Given the shortest possible time gap between any 1970 production-dated car and any 1972 production-dated car is just over 12 calendar months, what kind of scenario would you think made that possible? Somebody found a forgotten crate of parts behind the canteen door? My experience would be that there usually is some rhyme and reason to explain such perceived phenomena, and it is often the case that we - as civilians - are misunderstanding and misinterpreting what we see. I class it with the "left-over 240Z parts used on 260Zs" type comments...

432 fuel filler pipe and cap was exactly the same as that on contemporary build L-gata engined models.

It's in good condition because it's a colour photocopy of an original...

Sure. Why not? It could also be bought as a period-themed resto-mod project or any other scenario from mild to wild. It is a relatively rare surviving example of a 1970 Fairlady Z-L, and it appeals to certain people because of that. I'd say it is probably worth more than a similar condition north American market model of the same age. We need to be accurate here. A 'Fairlady 240Z' would be an HS30-S 'Fairlady 240Z', HS30 'Fairlady 240Z-L' or HS30-H 'Fairlady 240ZG' with an HS30-prefixed chassis number, produced roughly from September 1971 through August 1973. The car in question is not a '240Z'.

Sorry, but with all due respect the US title and any customs paperwork are not reliable witnesses to the production date of this car. My own 1970 Fairlady Z-L was 'titled' as a "1976 Fairlady Turbo" when it was originally imported to the United Kingdom by a USAF pilot in 1979, as the British vehicle licensing agency simply didn't know what they were dealing with... 'S30' prefixed chassis numbers produced in year 1969 ran from 'S30-00001' through 'S30-00953'. For 1970 year production the range was 'S30-00954' through 'S30-04330' and 'S30-04501' through 'S30-04504' (note the 171 car gap between '04330' and '04501'). This is not "Model Year" or 'Series', it is manufacturing date. Alan T.

The hand-written kanji next to the big '69' on the warranty booklet says 'Nen Shiki'. A rough translation would be '69 year style'. This does not mean the car was actually built in 1969, and I would not place too much emphasis on it. It has as much relevance as the 'Series One' and 'Series Two' type comments in the grand scheme of things.. I'd also have to say that if someone made a purchase order for a car in 1969, and had to wait the best part of ten months for it to be delivered, then it must have been a pretty long queue that they were at the back of... No, it's not a purchase order it's just a three year new car warranty booklet. Look, there's no chance of this being a 1969 build year car. We know enough about these cars to confirm that it was built in the second half of 1970, and persisting with the romantic but nevertheless mistaken idea that it was built in 1969 is going to hinder the sale not aid it. It's going to be a bone of contention in the kind of uneducated discourse you often see on the likes of Bring A Trailer, and it is a distraction from the truth of the car itself. Better to accept it is a 1970 build year, and a rare survivor of the type with a lot of potential for a new owner to add value by putting some work into it.

"Appraised" by whom? I can only conclude that this person did not know what they were looking at. As stated above, I have a lower chassis numbered Fairlady Z-L myself and it was made in the second half of 1970. Nissan Shatai's production records and the records of the Japanese motor vehicle licensing agency contradict the claim that your car was built in 1969. If you look closely at all the manufacturing date codes and quality control stamps on the componentry of the car they will show a majority of June/July/August/September 1970 dates. And here's no "numbers matching" in the accepted sense for these cars, as the chassis tags on Japanese market cars did not record the original engine number in the way that north American market cars did. Sorry, but it's a 1970 car. You'll put yourself in a stronger position regarding the sale if you embrace that fact. Good luck. Alan T.

Well spotted, Mike. The page with the Showa dates in the wallet with the owners manual is the dealer warranty, and it shows the 'Shatai Bango' (body/chassis number) as '03814' and type as 'S30', so it is 'S30-03814', a 'Nissan Fairlady Z-L' built around July 1970. Japanese market cars didn't have door jamb tags, or dash-mounted chassis number tags either. I have a 1970 Fairlady Z-L too. It has the chassis number 'S30-03761', so just 53 apart in the same numbering sequence. The "Series 2 body with Series 1 hatch" type comments are fairly common when people look at early Japanese models. They are often being fooled by the shape and style of the solid, non-vented Japanese market rear quarter emblems. They were round in shape, non-vented and had a big letter 'Z' in them, so they get mistaken for the generic vented "series 2" quarter emblems shared by all models in all markets:

I think it would certainly have been the JATCO 3N71A, as this was already being fitted and sold in the Japanese market in C10-series Skylines and other models by the end of 1968/early 1969. By the time of the 'Kaku U' north American tour it would have been a bit late (and fairly pointless) for them to have anything other than the 3N71A in one of the cars. Good story regarding your auto-equipped 510. Must have been a pretty big leap of faith in those days to buy such a car with the great distances between proper servicing dealers. I hope your loyalty was rewarded!

As 26th-Z pointed out, the subject of Automatic Transmission-equipped S30-series Zs - when framed by terms such as "earliest" and "oldest on the road" - has to take into account that Auto-equipped Zs were available in Japan much earlier than they were in north America. Having said that, at least one of the 'Kaku U' north American test/dealer publicity run cars from 1969 was Auto trans equipped. Not a true production car, but it did have a chassis number. The 3N71A transmission was made by JATCO (Japan Automatic Transmission Company), a joint enterprise by several companies under the BW patents..

No, there is Japanese factory documentation confirming that the majority of protective plating on the car was Zinc, and the yellow 'gold' finish is gold-passivated Zinc Chromate.

The answer is that none were. The finish you are thinking of is (yellow) gold-passivated Zinc Chromate plating.

Something we've discussed before on classiczcars.com: Post #9 in particular...

You're quite likely the only person who thinks he knows the exact day on which his car was made...

It's the ZG-specific towing bracket, as Kats pointed out previously...

The floor-pan 'pockets' are nothing to do with any Factory roll bar/'safety bar'/cage or related structure.

And just like so much written and spoken about Yutaka Katayama, it has a mistake or misapprehension in every sentence.

Tell him, not me. He's the one using Imperial.

I had to temporarily dumb myself down in order to realise that "visually appeared" should be "visually impaired"... Obviously that post was Made In China. So, Blue had more than 4 inches. Who knew?