My260Rocks

Howdy, I'm located in the Central Coast of California and am looking for a good paint and body shop to work on my 260. The coast doesn't have very many options, and those that do full jobs, have long wait lists and quotes of over $15k. My attention has shifted to the valley to save money. Can anyone recommend of a quality shop in the central valley that does complete car paint and body? Much appreciated

I'm looking for a metal front driver side fender, restored/refurbished or reproduction. Anyone have a good source?

also, every so often the damned thing will come alive, charge hard core, then stop charging again....

My 74 260 has just recently become afflicted with an electrical problem. It seems the battery is not being charged correctly. WHen I rev my car up, the amp meter shows a rise in current, but not much. Alternator has been checked and its fine. This issue is also affecting my fuel pump. For some reason the electric fuel pump isnt pumping at all. Battery is brand new(less then 2 weeks). I have a voltage regulator on order, but the fuel pump issue is making me think it might be something else. Has anyone else had to deal with this issue?

My brother (bless his soul ) had his car in a gun metal black... that looked green at one angle, black straight up, and grey at the opposite. Its the same color of the GMC Delani Metallic Black... very expensive. We worked so hard to get that thing as straight as possible! My older brother is re-restoring that Z, kind of a memorial to our younger bro. Man that car was sweet...

OMG Orange???? I chose to use the porsh red from the same model year... so i could escape the ORANGE!!!

im looking at the diagram supplied in my Haynes. It, unfortunatly does not color code the wires coming directly from the combo. switch. After the plug it is labels, but not before. Does the Chilton do a better job in that particular area?

OKay i replace a fried plug in my 74 260Z under my ignition (the one with nine wires)... but Im not one-hundred percent sure I rebuilt my plugs right.... I might have them backwards... or upside down... or just in total disarray. Could someone look under their car and tell me the plug combinations... DO something like GY(greenyellow) to R(red), BW(blackwhite) to L(blue), etc. Thank you so much... Oh, hey, maybe send a picture for reference...

Well I just wrapped up my final semester of school, and what happens to me on the last couple of days??? Electrical problems... Heres what happened, and what continues to happen. My 74 260Z, All of a sudden, has lost all tach, fuel gauge , oil gauge and fan function. And my amp gauge reads a varying drain, even when the car is revved. Upon a glancing observation I found that all the gauges use the same green-white wire. Continuity was... continuitous( is that a word?) through out the harness, however after the plug box I lose track of the wire... My question(s) 1) WHats going on here?!?. 2) Where is the beginning of this green/white wire. 3)am i on the right track?? Oh yes... one more thing... The black/ground wire is also shared, it also showed continuity through out the harness... but I see no undone grounds. Thanks!!! -Patrick

unfortunately the curve of the bar is to broad and does not fit the curve of the hood. I dont know how this rumor that the Civic strut bar would fit ever got started. At least the end links are useful if I deside to attempt to fabricate my own (non-Clampett style). -Patrick

yeah they look great, ive got to email them they say that the setup fits the early 260Z all models??? I've a 260Z late model, anyway, thnk you guys so much for the direction!

cool, abt how much for the Tokikos?

(thanks for the compliment) i guess it might be an urge to test my abilities as a fabricator. See how well i can make new brackets...will they look pretty (confident i can)... will the bar shape well... thats the question... If not, I could totally see fabrication from fresh molly in a tri-pod style. Maybe its an excercise in futility. Maybe this is all mental masterbation. But maybe it'll work great, look great, and I can have a little pride in it. :laugh: Or itll look horrible and Ive wasted 25bucks and a few hours i would have spent watching TV. Hey, whatever keeps you busy, right?

Nah, bottom of the line things (Im a poor college student). I'd like to think shocks last longer then 2 or 3 years even if they are the 20 dollar ones from Oreilly's :lick: Maybe I expect too much... bastards! I guess I'll just move up a notch on price (hopefully its an indicator of quality). Thanks for the help.

sblake01, dont give up on me man:) i read the post (after i bought the dang thing) and there is no follow up on whether he could get the thing to work while still closing his hood. I understand that bending will effect the integrity. I think its chrome molly, which affords me some ability in changing angles, but a small bit. Like I said, I'll update. If I have to bend the snot out of it, I know its not a good idea, and will say "there is no way this project can work". This thread will probably be more useful then the other one if for no reason other then the fact that it is mentioned that the honda bar doesnt fit with in the first page of the thread. BTW, look at the pic of my car, doesnt look like a Clampet style ride, I wont put anything on there that a)doesnt work, like a sprung brace bar b)looks like shite. :stupid: :cheeky:

I know that, but i dont know if i implimented that knowledge. I feel confident that i did... but i have forgot more important things before. Discounting heat, any other ideas?

where was the car in storage and where are you driving it now. And what are the jet numbers air, fuel, and main? Some where in those answers will tell you what you need to know. If you dont want to dyno, then youll be looking at purchasing alot of jets trying to feel out the best mixture. This is all assuming the carbs arent disfunctional

yeah ive heard its better to use the SU's, and the 240 SU's at that. I've then also heard using the spacers from the later 260 SU's with the old 240 SUs will also improve proformance.(?) On MIKUNIs, there is a problem with taking hard right(left?) turns. This can be fixed by paying NISSAN 300 bucks for each carb to repair, OR by JB Weld-ing up one of the holes linking the bowls to... something else... god what is it, cant remember, dang. Anyway just remembered that from my Dads racecar build and thought that I had better get that out on the forum, before I forgot it. Dont know if its ever been said.

i put 280Z springs in the back of my 260z because the 260z springs were sprung(?). Now ive got an oober squishy suspension...saving up for the upgrade.... On a side note. I've been through 3 sets of rear shock cartiridges since finding my car in the fall of 1998. This seems to be a little too often. Any ideas on why my cartridges keep failing? thx.

well, its true, the hood wont close. the bend starts too early. I think i can fix it with a vice to lessen the angle. if i have clearence issues with the camcover then ill add a bend in the center. hopefully all this bending wont jepordize any of the structural integrity of the brace. Ill update

oh ok, i know what your saying now, i did one side like 6 years ago when i was still in HS. (dont ask me why i didnt do both sides...i dont know). Order from Victoria BRitish, does anyone have the price for the inner bearings? I can get bearings for 25 each at O'Reilly's but I'm not really interested in buying from them. Like I said earlier I can get some quality bearings at Bearco in Dallas for less then 25 bucks each. Do you think if I called MSA or VB they would give me the spec #? Thx for the help and info.

what do you mean, i didnt understand... make sure the new one is sealed on both sides, the originals where sealed on only one side? Anyway i need the spec numbers for both the inner and outer bearing

Does anyone have the numbers for the rear wheel hub bearings. I want to order the barrings from Bearco here in Dallas, so that I can just press the old ones out, turn around and press new ones in. Im just looking for the spec numbers on the bearing, not the nissan part #. Anyone?

crap... man, well, i'll figure something out. I have some fabrication experience... you know the kind... a box full of bolts, spacers, odds and ends ranging from a 1970 Moto Morini and 76 CanAm... to a 1996 chevy suburban and 1984 Toyota Minivan... its a really big box. Thanks for the input all of you. -Patrick

ha, went on ebay to buy a honda strut bar to mod for the Z... saw one for $.99 :surprised with 15 minutes left in the auction... so I placed my bid, and won it for less then a dollar.... or so I thought... upon closed inspection, which i failed to make initially because of the time left in the auction, I found that shipping was $23.99!! I was had... but still 25 dollar strut bar is not TOO bad of a deal...