72zcar

It would be hard for me to cut up a real clean original 240z... but on the other hand if it already is upgraded in other ways or is very tired and would end up in the scrap yard anyhow I feel like its still a z saved. My v8 z is almost done, it's a little slow going because I have three z's and I also work on my friends 71... gotta work, only get sundays off. www.72zcar.50megs.com is my site for the v8 72 240 if anyone wants to check it out. zyaROFL

hey, nice clean looking z... the front air dam looks like the one msa sells? I have been wondering how the air dams with the fiberglass bumper built in work. do they go over the steel stock bumper? Or is there a metal bumper behind the fiberglass bumper? or .... is it just fiberglass? I was just thinking about the safety of the fiberglass front ends. :tapemouth

I would be highly pissed at the rechromer... you should call him up and blow him dookie.. I know I would:mad:

zcar Sspecifications http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/

I have a 72 v8z and a 73 z... the 73 had the same crappy flat top carbs, smog pump and all the crap on it when I first got it. It ran like crap :tapemouth so i did a compression test (155 in # 1 and 160 in 2-6) so I was happy. Took all that crap off, installed 72 su carbs, 72 intake, 2 1/2 in exhaust, header, turbo muffler and bamm runs like a champ. Like night and day. Oh yeah, thanks for the link..

hey patmsb, can you post a link to the page on the dmv web site that has this info... I found the site http://www.dmv.ca.gov/ but I can't find the page on the site that has the info about the 74 cars being exempt in 2003. I believe you... i just cant find it. :stupid: Let the hunt begin for all 240z zcars and now... 260z cars too... its getting better. 260z's are a little heavier but would make a great v8 swap. put it on non-op and by the time its done it will be exempt.......hahaha this is great news

thats great... 74 cars exempt in 2003:classic: . Does that mean that in 2004 75 cars will be exempt?

Maybe you have the linkage set to full throttle... i don't have webbers but i did manage to get the linkage reversed one time(that was enough) on my su carbs so when it started it was full blast... no fun

trust me... its 73 and older that is smog exempt...shoot for a 71 or 72... 72 being the best in my opinion. A 73 is also ok but unless someone already swapped them out will have the crappy flat top carbs:beard:

If I were you I would look around for a 70-73 240z because the 74 you are looking at needs to be smogged in CA. I don't think you could remove the big flat tops and replace them with nice su carbs and still pass smog... there is a bunch of crap coming off those flat tops that is probably needed to make the smog man happy. maybe someone else knows for sure.. I would leave it alone...

this is a pic out of the msa book, lousy camera... it says 70-73 is the same part then it changed in 74. You can almost make it out. I really need a new camera:ermm:

I have a 240z with a 280z electronic ignition distributor. I have been reading and it seems to say the resistor mounted on the fender well by the coil is not needed when you run a electronic distributor. And even limits the output of the coil because the ballast resistor was there originally to limit the voltage as to not fry the points, but since I have no points anymore taking the resistor out will increase the voltage output of the coil. Is this true? And if so do I simply remove the resistor and connect the wires together? Thanks...Bob This is what I read: BALLAST RESISTORS Surprisingly, stock coils on older 12V points systems on every car were designed to operate with a max of 6-8 volts. The reason is that on points distributors the entire voltage from the coil passes through the points, and too much voltage can burn them out. So the ballast resistor was put inline with the 12+ wire to the coil to limit the voltage it puts out. When you turn the key to start, the ballast is bypassed, and the coil gets a full 12V to put out a hotter spark for starting. Releasing the key inserts the resistor back into the circuit to preserve the life of the points. Why not design the ignition to use 12V all the time? Well, nowdays they do, but before 1977 or so that's the way all ignitions were designed. This means if you buy a high performance coil and simply install it, the ballast resistor will usually limit the new coil's power output to nearly stock. So on a points distributor If you connect a wire across the ballast, it will route a full 12-14v to the coil and pick up some voltage, but it can cause the points to burn out more quickly. Don't bypass the ballast if you have a '75-78 280Z. The 280 brain supplies the coil voltage, and removing the ballast can hurt it by making the FI brain supply too much current. 280ZXs supply a full 12v and don't use a ballast resistor.

check this out... http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/

i have been looking at the same lights too... anyone bought these. They look about the same as ones msa sells but its hard to be sure.

i have been looking at the same lights too... anyone bought these. They look about the same as ones msa sells but its hard to be sure.

or at least the uncle should let u drive it for a while so u can keep the z... and when the z is fixed give the granma car back with a full tank. sounds fair to me.

Hey, I got a set of shorty block hugger headers for my 350 72 zcar from MSA. I think they were about 140$ or so... they came unpainted. I hit them with some black heat paint and stuck them in my wifes oven for about 4 hrs and they came out good. No dinging required. If u want the 1800 # I can did it up, let me know.

passenger seat... not a problem. don't sell it... just fix it. a caprice, come on:finger: sure u will be driving around but u will not be , you will be:( And the caprice can break too, and when u r working on it you will be all pissed off, there is nothing worse than working on a grandma car man..:tapemouth Fix the z and u will be

bulbs can look ok an still be blown... check the bulbs with a ohm meter.

Take him over there and let him drive it... that should do it, haha

you are saying "seats are kinda torn up, the brake pedal's rubber cover is coming apart, the steering wheel kinda looks grungy" then I would have to say that the car is not a 50,000 mile car, unless the guy that owned it before you let wild animals live in it...:tapemouth

I simple... you don't. Sometimes you can tell by the condition of the seat or the brake and clutch pedals, steering wheel... these things among others give you a idea if the car is 50k or 150k...u know what I mean:D

how do u guys get the pic of your car or whatever u want under your screen name on your posts?

check this outLOL http://www.goingfaster.com/spo/you_might_be_a_ricer_if.html

Its true, around here a lot of the rice rockets ( rocket..haha) are smashed in. This one dude that comes into my store bought a honda for 5000$ then smashed into the back of a stopped car at a red light. Then put another 4500 into the little car in wings and fins and paint, giant tach,... blaa blaa then brought it over for me to see (stock 4 banger still under the hood) I just looked at him and said <b>"it's still slow hahahahaha and I will blow your doors off in my 400$ 240z" <b>hahahaha what a fool.. for the almost 10,000 $$$ he has in the piece of crap I could have built a nice zcar that's for sure.. Oh yeah, I'm a male