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Hi Guys, Couple of questions that I'm sure have been asked on here but I really can't find the answers when I searched. Basically the situation is that I'm looking to upgrade the cam in my 260Z (with the 240Z style round tops and extractors) as it is running out of breath. Now my first question is: Does anyone have a recommendation for lift/duration on a basically stock setup like the above? I know that my current cam is 256/256 degree duration and 0.276/0.290 lift. (I if my conversion is correct!) Second question: At what point do I have to worry about the springs binding? Is a 0.460 lift alright, or can I go a bit further? And lastly: do I need to retard or advance the timing? (I'm guessing advance?) Any advice would be great as I want to order it tomorrow for a race in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again, Ross. BTW before you ask, the car is for the track but needs to be drivable around town so nothing too mental :classic:

Ok, Stut bar is now on the front and I have to say it has made an appreciable difference to the handling. It does feel much firmer, although I've only thrown it around the back streets. Remind me after the March race and I'll tell you for sure, but so far so good :classic: Cheers, R.

Hey JustaZCarguy, I've just purchased a front one today (thanks Z Kid!) and will fit it over the next week or so, and then I'm racing on March the 16th so I'll let ya know :classic: Cheers, Ross.

Hey Man, I think the music the datsun's are playing at the moment is great! I don't know if they've toured Aus yet, but I want to see them :classic: They're from New Zealand so they shouldn't be far off our shores. I've been hearing interviews etc recently and they seem pretty down to earth considering they were a garage band not six months ago! Oh, and I think I recall one of them admitting that they had taken the name from an old 180 B or 200B that a band member owned.... R.

My best guess would be yes, no problem at all, but I've never done it myself. Maybe someone else could shed some light on this? R.

I don't know about the laws in the US, but in Australia you can under no circumstances pull the seat belt retractor box apart for servicing. If the cops knew you were doing it then they'd defect the car in an instant..... Probably a sensible law as all kinds of things could go wrong at the most inappropriate time:tapemouth It would be a lot easier and safer to just go and buy a new pair of belts, or failing that a good second hand pair.... R.

I sympathise with you Alpha, I've run with Gemini's before the Zed and every mechanic treats an 18 year old with a common car pretty badly. Now that I'm older and have the Zed everyone is interested and I'm usually allowed out the back. It's a bit strange as teh Zed is in under coat and my old Gemini was in mint condition and EFI? Oh well, as the others have said: Knowledge is Freedom Hey Z Kid, where did you take you Zed? I'll probably need somewhere to help me eventually :classic: Cheers, R.

Hey That Ozzy Guy, Thanks for the response to our plea for a decent Zed. $3k in Sydney is stretching the budget (once freight and transferring rego is brought in). I'm assuming it's out of rego etc? Anyway, if you could post more details or email me with further details that would be great. I've got a lead on a car locally for a similar price so a bit hesitant to jump at one interstate.... Do you know any numbers on this one? is it an early build? Does it have any history? Cheers, Ross.

Thanks for the link BambiKiller, has anyone had any experience with these? They look pretty good though.... Cheers, Ross.

Wasn't me Z kid! I'm still looking for a good 240 shell, most I've looked at have been either too expensive or too far gone and only useful for parts. Are there any other cars out there for under $3k? I'm looking to do it up to race, so an engine/trans isn't important but the body is. Thanks, Ross. Oh, and I'm interested in that shell TRS if Z Kid finds something else, just PM me. Ta.

I was just reading the above and wondering; Can you buy new tarmats to keep the sound down? Are they even worth putting back, and if not what can be used to keep sound and vibrations down? Any ideas? What have your guys done? Cheers, Ross.

I don't need the glass but I'm after a 2+2 hatch that has little or no rust (of course :classic: ) Any colour and any paint condition as I need it to complete a side project. Cheers, Ross. ross.smith@eds.com

Hi Peter, Sorry, but the fabricator that I spoke to was keen and knew he ccould do it but just hadn't done it yet. Price wasn't really discussed either! I trust he could do it as he had a 510 that he'd just put a RB25 into and a Silvia (mid 90's one) with the VG30DET in..... Most of his works on Cobra's with 500ci Chevies etc so I know it will all be strong As for sourcing an engine I was going to get a half cut straight from Japan. That would have everything I need plus a couple of panels to sell off (hopefully) and recoup a bit of the cash. Can you guys get half cuts imported to the states? Cheers, Ross.

Hi Peterc, I've been looking at putting the VG30DETT engine (twin turb version) into a 260Z. I've found a guy to do all the physical modes and he is 100% sure it will fit and although the engine is slightly heavier (if you include all the extra's) it is set further back towards the fire wall so handling shouldn't suffer... Let us know what you find out though as it is still an expensive path to take! Cheers, R.

Just thought I'd put a follow up note in, for interests sake. Unfortunatly I ran out of time to swap diffs etc before my two weeks holiday. As I was driving the Great Ocean Road in Victoria I wanted an interesting car to drive (my girlfriends '75 BMW just doesnt' cut it ). Anyway, to cut a long story short I've just got back from doing a 2,800 km round trip (including detours) and it is still holding together. This included a couple of runs over 180kph and some of the windiest (read fun) roads in Australia. Now I can give the car any gas in reverse or it screams, but all in all I think that these diffs are very sturdy little units! Thanks again for all the input and I'll get to swapping it soon as I don't think I should try and take it on the track next season like this:classic: Cheers, R.

Is there another link to the above article? I can't seem to find it on canada.com... Thanks, R.

Hey Rob, Don't have any time to reply here, but drop me a line at ross.smith@eds.com and I might be able to find the bumper bits for you..... Cheers, R.

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the replies. I think you might be right 2Many, the more I listen to it and the way I get around it doesn't sound good. I'll pull the back cover and check what's in side, but I'm guessing it will be a mess All I can say is it is a good thing I've got a spare R200 kicking around in the shed that was out of an auto so should be in better condition. Thanks for the contact Ben, I was wondering where to take it if it came to needing a rebuild. Approximately how much would it cost? Just two more questions: Is it worth getting the other diff rebuilt while it is out of the car and what can be added/strengthened? and will the current (stuffed) diff make it on a thousand km journey over about a week? Thanks again, Ross. BTW the rear diff mount was replaced by the previous owner and looks to be in pretty good condition.

Hey 2Many, It happens with or without braking, so i'm pretty sure it's not that and when a mate rode in the back he said it sounded very central but couldn't pin it. As for heat, that makes me feel a bit better :classic: I'll have to check out the other possibilities but it is definatly rearward and not trans associated..... Cheers, R.

Hi Guys, Finally got my Zed running well and been driving it pretty hard. I didn't realise how much I missed it until I started driving again. Anyways, the problem I have is in the rear, but not the normal bumps, knocks and groans. Basically, when I down change (5 speed manual) abruptly the rear makes a horrible grinding noise that sounds like steel on steel! I almost sounds like something repeatedly hitting the floor pan? For example, the car is doing say 4500rpm in 3rd and I drop it to second while braking. Normally I would expect it to try and pressure lock, lean forwards abit and be fine. Instead I can't do this because of teh horrid noise from the rear (it sounds like the car is being torn apart! I can avoid this noise by "heel-toeing", so all i can think is the diff is moving in its mounting.... but i can't see any evidence of this and can't really get under the car when I'm doing 60kph :classic: I've got up under there to check it out and needed to replace a broken suspension bracket (one of the four little ones holding the rear lower wishbone in place) and I've noticed a crack in the subframe that holds the diff in but nothing that would account for this noise! Does anyone have any ideas at all? Cheers, Ross. BTW How hot should a diff get in day to day driving? Mine seems to be getting pretty hot?

Well seeing as everyone else is showing their dog pix I'll have to dig one up... This is my Black German Shepherd, Benson. He's only 7 weeks old in these pictures, and weighed about 3kg (I think). Now he is six months old and weighs closer to 25 kg.... He can never get comfortable in the Zed though, too much fast cornering I think :classic: Cheers, R.

Just had to add that I do like them, no matter what they are from. I agree with the rest of the crew, I wouldn't change them! R.

I think there was a Honda S600 (maybe) released at the same time as the Datsun Roadster that had a little 600cc engine in it. It was a 4 cyclinder with four Honda bike carbies on it. Apparently it reved to all hell and back.... Very fun little ride from what I've heard. R.

And here is a pic of the 260C which was the next model on from the 240C. Basically these had the 260Z engine with a really bad four barrell carby that sucked heaps of juice and gave bugger all power. On the up side it is loaded with accessories being Nissan's deluxe saloon in Australia. Cruise control, electric windows AC, Power steer... Comfy seats and a decent stereo.... Pity they're ugly :classic: