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Hi Guys, One question that I can't find an answer to on this site or in any of my reference material. Does the 280ZX Dizzy use the Hall effect to feed back to the ECU? If so does anyone have the stats on it (ie voltage high and low?) And while on the topic, where is the crank angle sensor on a 280Z(X) efi engine? Is it in the spindle with the Dizzy like later model nissan engines? Also, does the 280Z(X) efi engine run an O2 or knock sensor? And does anyone know what brand of computer is used in the efi nissans? I think that's all! Any help is appreciated but especially to do with the dizzy as I'm trying to source an efi dizzy for when I efi my 260Z. Thanks, Ross.

If I did win the lotto.... Hmmmm, the possibilities are really endless and all in all I would probably have three or four early Zed's, not to mention a new 350Z. However, if I had to keep it to one Zed, then it would be an early 240 with a neat, but not over the top, front air dam and small rear spoiler. Sparkling chrome and a mostly stock interior (maybe some killer seats and harnesses, no real nead to go for a cage etc as I'd have dedicated V8 race car in the garage and this is a daily driver after all ) As for the engine and drive line, I'd put the AWD drive system and RB26DETT from a Skyline underneath.... Unfortunatly no one will ever make a AWD Zed as the cost would be phenominal. That's what I'd do anyway. If it was a small lottery win then I think I would just put a VG30DETT in and stiffen all the suspension with stock body work... Nothing more. Nothing Less. Ross.

No sign of any adds down under, but then I'm not sure when the official Australian release date is either? May not have passed yet, but I've seen plenty of articles relating to its launch in local mags.... Unfortunatly none of the write ups are particularly thrilling, they all say it is adequately powered but understeers like a dog. Anyone seen anything different? R.

I'd like to know the reason if you find one smg1404 as my old 260 does it as well? I've noticed that if I'm changing lanes and I hit one of those lane markers (reflector thingies) on the line then it fully 'wiggles' for lack of a better word. Anybody have any thoughts on where to start? R.

I'm in Aus, and I've got a 260z 2+2 speedo that is in KPH and has no Zero. If anyone wants it drop me a PM and I'll let you know my details so that I can sell it. I really don't need 2! R.

You could always have your injectors cleaned and tested by a Auto electrician/injection place. It cost me $8 per injector to have them acid bathed, sonic tested and fully cleaned out. It turned out my injectors were fine but if one was stuffed then I wuold have only needed the one new one. My 10c anyway. (not 2c, inflation and all)

As always with these kind of things, figure a budget as close as you can and then at at least 30% in price and time (if not more). Be prepared for it to take longer than expected and cost more than expected this way it's not a stressfull experience as well! Only real advice I can give so far is do your home work before you go fork out big bucks for parts and accessories. Make sure the company that sells them is giving you what you want... Also, and most importantly, spend the extra time getting a shell that has no rust. This will take the most time/money to fix so if you can start without it and only need mechanicals then you should be set. Good luck with the project! Ross.

You're Trippin' :sleepy: Easy mistake with that extra flaring for the intake but that's definately an injected engine, you can see the fuel rail just above the runners that do (I must admit) look like Mikunis.

I agree with Cuong, the RB series of engines (even the RB30) are a good choice if your just after straight out bang for your buck. the EFi on these is smooth and efficient, the sensors are all easy to reach and swap out and with an after market ECU the sky's teh limit. If however you need to work with in the constraints of a racing class, then the L28 is definately the go. The nissan parts bin is almost bottomless when it comes to what can be done with them. Flexibility is an understatement :classic: R.

I've got heaps of parts for the flat tops and need parts for the round tops too. Most notably the actual aircleaner assembly itself... Anyone in Aus got a spare? Cheers, Ross.

and another view

Here's a pic of a carby turbo that was installed on the 225ci Slant six that came in Chryslers (Valiants in Australia and I think the same in US/Canada) You can get a rough idea of what it looks like anyway.....

I know a lot of the other nissans got the different heads here in Aus. I've seen all of those head at the junk yard, including an N42 on a late model 260Z 2+2? but mostly just the E88 as expected. I've never heard of the L20 six outside of Japan? Was it released anywhere else? I think you've got the list almost complete 2manyZ, any others would be home market variants only I think? Alan! We need your help again. R.

I only have one thing to say. Don't waste your time on a Carby Turbo. I'm sure you can get good results, but it is quite a difficult thing to get right for not a great power gain.... I think there are two ways using either a blow by or blow through turbo setup but I really can't remember the theory.... Cheers, Ross. BTW I'm pretty sure you'd need to use a webber or a holley as side draft carbs can't be used.

Thanks again Alan, you've answered my question beautifully. I'll be able to move on with that. The reason that I asked is that I'm at a cross road of going for triple carbs or injection.... It's good to hear that they were using EFi in competition so early, I was a bit worried that they didn't use it until the late '70's. Hmmmmm, I recon I'll head for injection after all :classic: Oh and we're glad your so selfish, it means you've got a depth of knowledge on the early nissan's that we all envy Cheers, Ross

Thats exactly the rear box I was talking about. Thanks for the pix Grantman, I think it would have been hard to keep explaining without them :classic: Cheers, R.

Thanks for that Alan, I really wish you had all your knowledge written down somewhere! It would make one hell of a read.... Just one last question though; Which year did Nissan/Datsun swap from carbs (twin or triple) to the ECGI injection? I know in Aus we had twin carb 260z up until 1979 I think, when the 280zx came in. It is my understanding that the 260z was injected in other countries but I'm interested in which year this injection came in? Thanks again Alan, Ross.

One place I have seen them, and they looked effective if not original, was in a newly fabricated 'box' that extended from the rear trim behind the tail lights. It extended into the cabin only a little bit further than the original trim and gave reasonable sound as they point straight down the cabin.... Just a though.

Hey Cuong, How much does he want for the triples? Also while on this topic, do the triples go out of tune heaps faster than twins or is it about the same? I had a mate with triple carbs on an XU1 Torana (202ci, )and he was forever having them tuned..... They also chewed through fuel like a 20b rotary Now I know that the Aussie 202 is a pretty hungry engine, but it was getting ridiculus by the end.... Is this normal or was his set up wrong? Thanks for any input. R. BTW Alan, What is the race history of tripple carbs on Datsuns? Were the Mikunis used exclusivly or where delorto's used as well? Ta.

Australia has similar laws to NZ, whereas if the capacity changes past a certain point (or the power to weight ratio) then it needs to be engineer approved (about an extra $1000 expense). This is not so bad because to pass the engineers testing you actually need to do a 1/4 mile and a few other track tests to make sure that the power output isn't being dodged. As for rebirthing, it's pretty hard to do to newer cars but I've heard of quite a few people doing it to pre-1980 cars... If a car is taken off the road (defected or wrecked) and then re registered it will usually (except in a couple of circumstances) need to go over the pits and have a general saftey check (belts, seat mouts etc). Not too hard if you have nothing to hide, but if you have something to hide (like structural rust) then they'll find it. Swapped VIN's is only going to get picked up then, or if the car is ever stolen and recovered and then they'll do a pretty thorough search and background check...... R.

As I've mentioned above, I've got a guage that looks the same as the 240Z one but is in Kph. If you've got a photo of yours ( or anyone does) I'll post a photo of what we've got and then we can see if a direct swap is possible? I'm looking to sell this speedo as I don't need a second speedo that has no zero, but it would suit the originality of a 240z R.

I thought Aus converted to kph in around '66-68? Not too sure though. My Valiant from 63 was in miles, as was a '67 Bellett I had, so it must have been after that. I was sure it was before 1969 though? R.

My Chassis number isn't even recorded on the rego, makes me worry a bit that it could be stolen and rebirthed very easily as only the Engine Number is recorded anywhere and that's easy to change..... R.

Hmmmmm.... The car that this speedo is out of is one of the very first 260z's into the country (well a low production number anyway) and according to the literature should be running all 240z instruments. Comparing it to the other 260z that I've got the dials are definately different (except the tacho I think) and does start at 20kpm.... The newer 260z has a zero and has different font on the dials along with a volt meter in the middle of the three clustered on the left. Anyone have any ideas as to why this is in kph yet the other guys are in mph? Was there a brief swap over period or something where they were in km's but still had no zero? Cheers, R.

Yeah, the Aussie ones are in Kph but the earliest (240 and early 260's) actually don't have a zero. Makes it difficult to do 5 or 10 kph around school grounds etc! BTW I've got a 240Z style speedo, amp/fuel and temp/oil guages that I'm looking to sell if anyone is interested... Cheers, R.