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Here's the two door

Here's the back

This is a 240K four door from the local wreckers... As you can guess an L24 with a single down draught carby. Not too bad in two door GT form.

E30 was the smaller head for the 240K and 240C's in Australia. Not a particuly good head from what I've seen. R.

OK, she's now running fine with no problems...... 1 am this morning no less after starting to work on it with a mate at about 8pm. We cleaned or replaced the dizzy cap, rotar arm (that made a big difference), leads, plugs (the original were Denso?? never seen them before) and points... Also on checking the positive from the ignition to the coil it was only putting in about 10V, once this was shorted straight to the battery the spark picked up and we had ignition! Turns out there was a bad earth to the body which after I cleaned it was able to get up to about 11.5V to the coil and it started first turn of the key and idled fine. Anthony and I just stood there looking at it in amazement, as it was literally the last thing before tearing the dizzy down and rebuilding it! Oh, and thanks 2Many as now I can remember the plug order easily, 153 624 and as I had to remove and put them back on about 5 times over the night. Between replacing and cleaning the cap and rearranging the leads to make sure they're in the right order!! Good fun Thanks again for all of your help, I would never have figured out that the dizzy was on 180 degree's out of whack!! Cheers, Ross. BTW Biker, the dizzy turns Anti Clockwise... Had to watch the rotor to check though:ermm:

Hey Guys, Biker: I'm probably dyslexic KO? That looked wrong but I couldn't remember it this morning I've been running from the manual, and clockwise.... I think:stupid: The leads do run Clockwise don't they? I haven't put them on backwards? Crap, first thing to check tonight and if it is then that small and stupid thing has been found :stupid: Oh, and Clive I am just running the single point dizzy, but I've been thinking of upgrading the igintion. Is the MSD unit any good? Thanks again all, R.

Don't know who makes them but in Australia I've always known them as Minilites as they are very similar to the old wheels that the race mini's used. Hope that helps. R.

Ok lets see if we can narrow this down a bit. The more I wrestle with this problem in my head this morning the more that the option of bad fuel comes up.... I can't understand if it is, the fuel is less than a month old, and I've left fuel before for over six months with out a problem? Anyway, I'll run over what I've done in relation to the above... 1. a) Check, strong and regular especially after it ran through my arm for a rotation or two Check, not strong but I'm not familiar with how far this spark should jump. c) Check, and double checked. From the top of my head its 5 3 1 6 2 4, but I've been running from the manual for that one. I've also removed the plugs and cleaned them, and regapped them to be sure, all looks fine.... 2. a) No air cleaner the whole time to try and help air flow and let me see into the carbs. Not sure how to check this but I've moved them up and down manually and they slide freely, no obstructions that I can see... c) Yes, and I can watch the petrol filter fill with petrol as the pump turns over. The plugs were also damp with petrol when I cleaned them. The return line is putting out a good deal of petrol and each carb is getting a good supply as well. d) I think I'll have to give this a shot, I'll nick some fresh fuel from my g/friends BMW and see if that helps..... e) I'll have to try this next if I can't get a fire from the BMW fuel. They only sat for a couple of weeks between cars, is that long enough to jam up? 3. I'll check compression tonight as well and report back. I thing it will turn out to be something small and stupid that I've missed, but only having an hour or so of light each night to work on it I haven't spotted it yet. I've never had this much trouble with any car, and I've worked on EFI car's before (and loved it ). Ah well, I'll try again tonight and see what the hell I can find out. Thanks all, Ross.

Still no joy.... I've now cleaned the plugs off again, just to be sure and even swapped out the dizzy cap incase it was stuff (it looked like it has a whole bunch of hairline fractures running out from one pin.... What else can be wrong?? Thanks for the further ideas Biker. I've had the air cleaner off the whole time so I could watch the carb and on these SU's the breather pipes out the top of the carbies have been blocked off with a brass plug... The plug has always been there, so I assume it was a mod at some point? I'll have to pull a plug and watch it turn. I'll see if that gives me any ideas... Thanks all for your help, we'll get there soon. R.

I've stripped everything off of the intake on my 260Z and it did actually make a difference, and also filled the bin pretty well :classic: I wouldn't worry about any bad effects from removing it as the engine is probably so worked passed standard spec that they wouldn't help smog anyway! R.

Crap. I've done the above and waited for awhile incase it was flooded and then tried again. Nothing. Played for a while and it turns out one of the wires in the dizzy had worn through and was shorting on about every second rotation. Replaced that and now it is sparking again, it's definatly getting petrol but all I get is the occassional wet sounding pop? Does this sound like a blockage somewhere or like it is still an ignition problem? As the engine was running when I pulled I'd be surprised if it was a carb fault..... Another though I had was that it was a weak spark failing to ignite the fuel that has been sitting for a while. I've ruled that out by draining all the dregs from the tank and replacing it with fresh fuel. I've also swapped the coil over from my parts car to this one to rule that out..... I'm fresh out of ideas again, it all appears to be working this time but just won't ignite! Cheers, R.

Turns out you guys were right. The previous owner had put the dizzy in 180 degrees out of whack so when I swapped the leads during the engine change, it all went to hell. I've moved the leads around 180 deg and it gave a few wet sounding pops but still wont start. I think I've managed to flood it:classic: I'll let you know when I get it going

Is this a normal amount of rust for a 1975? I couldn't believe it, this literally fell apart after hitting it three times with my boot!

This is what is left of the rear quarter and sill panel. You can almost see the ripples in the bog along the sill, and as per many dodge jobs there is mesh to hold the bog in place! Again, why you should weld all of the rust up and not bog it...

Took some photo's of my parts car as I've been pulling it down, and I'm really surprised that the it held together for as long as it did. Both sill panels were made up of about an inch of bog (or bondo or fiberglass, whatever) and had all these little tell tale pockmarkes. I knew this when I bought it but I didn't realise the extent. Even the fram rails, the most structural part of the car, were bogged up! The car had no welding anywhere that I've found, just bog. Even the C pillar had bog at the top to 'hold' the roof on:stupid: I've attached a couple of photo's for reference to show what a bog job gone wrong looks like! First is the C pillar bog, when I cut the roof off there was a good half inch of bog on the outside here as well.... One good rain storm and my Zed would have been a convertible R.

Hi All, Nother item from the parts car. Fuel tank out of a 1975 260z 2+2. Seems to be in pretty good nick and when i drained it very little crap came out of it. It does have a small dent on the left hand side in the photo so I'm only asking $15. Basically giving it away. Cheers, R.

This is a pretty poor picture of the above speedo but we all know what they look like :classic: That's what I have for sale though, one 1975 Speedo gage showing approx 25000 km on the clock (from memory). It was actually out of an early model 260Z 2+2 but it is the 240Z style, with no zero. I'm after $30 plus shipping (or I can deliver if your in Adelaide). I also have the tacho from the same car, so for $50 I'll sell both. Cheers, Ross

Hi guys, I need a hand. I'll give you a bit of back ground first to try and set the scene and make it a bit easier to help me. I've just swapped the L26 engine out of my auto parts car (both 260Z 2+2) into my daily driver (5 spd manual). This engine has the good SU's and when I stopped my parts car (about two weeks before doing this swap) and it ran fine. The old engine had the flattops but I don't think that's relevant... Now that I've got it into my daily driver, all hooked up and ready to go but turn the key and it won't fire. It turns over fine, all the electrics are good but still no life. I've checked the fuel pump (electric) no problems, after trying for a bit the plugs are damp with petrol so I've ruled that out (plus you can still here it clicking over and see the fuel filter in the engine bay fill with fuel). I've checked the leads and while cranking the engine atleast the back four leads are sparking (my arms aren't long enough to crank nad reach the front two ). After trying for half hour and trying a multitude of things, and cleaning everything I could think of the back carb coughed. It didnt sound like the engine fired, but just the back carby coughed and put out a bit of smoke. Nothing else happened....? The only change between the two cars was the Auto to Man trans and I can't see how this would effect the runnign of the engine? The timing hasn't moved and I'm pretty sure the carbs weren't knocked in the swap, but I think it would still start even if they were out a little? Anyway I'm boned. I can't for the life of me figure out where to go next :stupid: Any info or suggestions would be great Cheers, Ross.

I used to have a set of these on my Gemini wagon, years ago... I think that Cheviot made them under the name of Hurricanes. That is in Australia though, so not sure about the states. R.

Hey Ashley, Sorry to get a bit pushy but your the best source of parts that I've found in awhile and I don't want to let you get away :classic: Anyway, when you can post the pics on here and then we'll all know what we're looking at and if they'll suit our respective projects. Thanks again, Ross.

Rare Spares (or Restorers Hotline) might be able to help you out for parts. Their pretty good at sourcing anything from any price, and can get it freighted to Adelaide as part of the cost. Try them; 384 South Road, Richmond 8354 0900. Good luck. Ross.

Hi sjcurtis, If your after any rubbers I've found Rare Spares down here in Adelaide to have everything you need, and although they can be a bit pricey I've never had a problem. It also helps that the manager of the store has a low build number 240Z that he is doing up to original spec! He's got a ton of spares in his own shed for Zed's that he's willing to sell if the price is right. If he doesn't have it he is willing to source it from where ever he needs to. Good guys to deal with I've found.... Andrew did have a couple of sets of the headlight covers and other bits when I last spoke to him as well. R.

Ashley M is you man although I've been emailing him for the last week or so to get me one on the next truck to Adelaide and I haven't had any responses! Ashley if your out there, mail me I want one of those airdams/spoilers!! R.

Hey Spooge, I wouldn't be put off so easily on the Lexus idea, from memory they are a pretty mean little V8 and as their all alloy I'd imagine pretty light as well. They shouldn't mess with the Zed's handling too much and a R200 (LSD or not) should be able to take the power..... Hmmmmm, not a bad thought, although I'm still taken with putting a VG30DETT in mine :classic: What kind of figures do those engines put out? Cheers, R.

Hi All, I'm pretty sure that this question has been asked before but I really can't find it, and I've searched through a good back log of threads! How can I tell if a diff is an R200 or an R180? I'm sitting looking at my parts car, a 1975 260z 2+2 and I seem to remember someone telling me that they all came with 3.90 R200's. Can anyone verify this?? Cheers, Ross.