Bruce Palmer

Oh my, the muscle car guys are going to have to learn something new, or remain under their rocks....... nyuck nyuck

With the piston in and dome in place start running the screws down unformly while lifting the piston with a finger and allowing it to drop. If you are cattywompis and the needle is binding, back the screws off a smidge and nurse the dome sideways until it (the needle) drops freely. Continue until screws are tight and the needle drops cleanly into the orifice...... Do not under penalty of death, adjust your floats during this operation...... Now that's funny I don't care who you are!!

And believe me I do apologize for this problem we seem to carry forward showing the lid/float turned upside down like this. This was shown by the original owner of ZTherapy using Grose Jets which we haven't been able to get for about 14 years. Can I get the video fixed to reflect how to do it with needles and seats? Not so far.....With needles and seats with the tiny spring inside, the weight of the float will over power the spring and your float level will be tits right out of the chute. Turn the damn thing over blow lightly into the fuel inlet tube while moving the float toward the lid. When the needle closes you should feel resistance to your breath. That's where your measurement should take place. Bend the tang on the float to get that gap from the top of the float to the bottom of the lid. Once you get both set the same, put your hands in your pockets and back away. THEN: You start tuning the carbs. First thing is THAT 2 1/2 TURN THING is ONLY a starting point. Steve sets our "out the door REMANS" at 2 1/2. Most any motor (or engine for you sticklers) will start at 2 1/2 turns down but almost assuredly will end up up or down from there BASED ON THE MOTOR. Set the mixture and balance and go use your butt dyno to make 'er run. Keep tweaking til it runs. I do have to ask: who's lid is this in the photo? Don't even tell me the caps are left on the overflows for running. I'm going to my room......

It really is amazing how many problems on these old pots can be rectified with just a little cleaning. Old gas and varnish can be a real "stickler" in getting things to work smoothly again.

The only reason to replace needles or nozzles is if wear is an issue. Metering needles with a shiny spot from wearing on the nozzle and a concurrent orifice worn egg shape in the nozzle would be a change out reason. As long as the needle is straight and un-worn and the hole in the nozzle is round and .100" there isn't much to be gained.

FYI Steve and Pam are going to be at the BRE Reunion in LA. If ya want to talk to the man with the magic, look 'em up.

And in the midst of all their high tech efforts Rob and crew have installed a number of our carbs for happy customers. Bruce Almighty @ ZTherapy

Z Car Garage in San Jose. About the best there is. Give Rob fuller a call. Tell him I sent you, he'll talk to you anyway.... nyuck nyuck 404-452-0350

I think anything along this line of rolling that air into the mouth of the carbs rather than breaking it over the square corner is invaluable. I've run the Stub Stacks from APTFast for years and really like them. Of course that's on a 510 where distance is limited......

Troy, Just to confirm what was stated here-in the help you can get here is far and away the best you can find anywhere on the web.

As usual, Alvin, you did a yeoman's job of recapping the event. Thank you very much......

Guy, could you be a little more specific about that obviously marvelous carb system? Perhaps the Post Office should take a look at them as the really appear "TO HAUL THE MAIL"....... Nyuck nyuck

Keeping the yoke and shaft orientation one to the other should keep vibration from returning. The shaft was balance that way so putting it back that way should be fine. I agree with the guys in thinking you have other problems here.....

FYI We have replated fuel rails.