Bruce Palmer

Oh my, the muscle car guys are going to have to learn something new, or remain under their rocks....... nyuck nyuck

With the piston in and dome in place start running the screws down unformly while lifting the piston with a finger and allowing it to drop. If you are cattywompis and the needle is binding, back the screws off a smidge and nurse the dome sideways until it (the needle) drops freely. Continue until screws are tight and the needle drops cleanly into the orifice...... Do not under penalty of death, adjust your floats during this operation...... Now that's funny I don't care who you are!!

And believe me I do apologize for this problem we seem to carry forward showing the lid/float turned upside down like this. This was shown by the original owner of ZTherapy using Grose Jets which we haven't been able to get for about 14 years. Can I get the video fixed to reflect how to do it with needles and seats? Not so far.....With needles and seats with the tiny spring inside, the weight of the float will over power the spring and your float level will be tits right out of the chute. Turn the damn thing over blow lightly into the fuel inlet tube while moving the float toward the lid. When the needle closes you should feel resistance to your breath. That's where your measurement should take place. Bend the tang on the float to get that gap from the top of the float to the bottom of the lid. Once you get both set the same, put your hands in your pockets and back away. THEN: You start tuning the carbs. First thing is THAT 2 1/2 TURN THING is ONLY a starting point. Steve sets our "out the door REMANS" at 2 1/2. Most any motor (or engine for you sticklers) will start at 2 1/2 turns down but almost assuredly will end up up or down from there BASED ON THE MOTOR. Set the mixture and balance and go use your butt dyno to make 'er run. Keep tweaking til it runs. I do have to ask: who's lid is this in the photo? Don't even tell me the caps are left on the overflows for running. I'm going to my room......

It really is amazing how many problems on these old pots can be rectified with just a little cleaning. Old gas and varnish can be a real "stickler" in getting things to work smoothly again.

The only reason to replace needles or nozzles is if wear is an issue. Metering needles with a shiny spot from wearing on the nozzle and a concurrent orifice worn egg shape in the nozzle would be a change out reason. As long as the needle is straight and un-worn and the hole in the nozzle is round and .100" there isn't much to be gained.

FYI Steve and Pam are going to be at the BRE Reunion in LA. If ya want to talk to the man with the magic, look 'em up.

And in the midst of all their high tech efforts Rob and crew have installed a number of our carbs for happy customers. Bruce Almighty @ ZTherapy

Z Car Garage in San Jose. About the best there is. Give Rob fuller a call. Tell him I sent you, he'll talk to you anyway.... nyuck nyuck 404-452-0350

I think anything along this line of rolling that air into the mouth of the carbs rather than breaking it over the square corner is invaluable. I've run the Stub Stacks from APTFast for years and really like them. Of course that's on a 510 where distance is limited......

Troy, Just to confirm what was stated here-in the help you can get here is far and away the best you can find anywhere on the web.

As usual, Alvin, you did a yeoman's job of recapping the event. Thank you very much......

Guy, could you be a little more specific about that obviously marvelous carb system? Perhaps the Post Office should take a look at them as the really appear "TO HAUL THE MAIL"....... Nyuck nyuck

Keeping the yoke and shaft orientation one to the other should keep vibration from returning. The shaft was balance that way so putting it back that way should be fine. I agree with the guys in thinking you have other problems here.....

FYI We have replated fuel rails.

Gotta love it when helping hands reach out to one another.

Fun event coming up starting at West Salem Safeway parking lot. $5 per poker card goes to charity. Have a dozen or so stops along the way to chat look at cars, do some nibbling ending I think at one of the areas nicest local brewery/eatery. Any questions call me at 503-587-9800

We have had numerous customers asking for new floats. It covers everything from "I stabbed mine with a screw driver" to "they are soaking up gas". The longer time has gone on the more prevalent the calls have become. We have been installing used floats up to now just to get good ones going out but the combination of the cries for floats and our supply of "good used" getting leaner, it was time . NISSAN had no more and pricing on the last we bought from them was about 3 times what ours are going for. Bottom line: Time to step up and add another part to our manufactured list. All of our Z car and 2 liter roadsters will now include ZT-30 floats as part of the package....... Any of our carbs out in the field will have perfectly serviceable floats (until you stab them with a screwdriver or some such)......

Part number ZT-30 New in stock as of last month. $30 each

If anything, SMs reverse what the stock needles did. They lean things down at idle and richen things up up top where your engine will be happier. With all the happy owners out there liking what they get with SMs I have to believe you have other issues... Which Vancouver are you in?? If it's WA, drive down and I'll bet lunch Steve will have you running in relatively short order. BC, not so much

This isn't the first time we've had to step out there an pony up for things to be built. Some have been those things that come loose, fall off, and are lying along side the road somewhere....

At long last we have the newly manufactured (for us) Z car floats in house ready for sale. The ZT-100 Reman will include the new floats. Sold individually they are $30 each. Float pivot pins are $1.00 and float bowl lid gaskets are $2.00. Don't forget to include these items with your order if you need them. We also have new composite free floating floats for the 38 mm Hitachis. The 38 mm float pricing remains at the $30 level where they have been for several years. Bruce Palmer 503-587-9800 Sales@ztherapy.com

I'd pull the cable and lube it well with graphite cable lube. Do it soon before you do damage to the cable and housing.

But ya better let off when approaching railroad tracks.

Before getting too excited looking for kits, I'd pull them all apart and check the bores for pitting. Corrosion pits over the years will tear up new seals rather quickly..... If you do end up buying rebuilt units or even new units, I'd open them up and wash them out. I've seen machiningresidue left behind inside which we have to assume will start chewing up new seals too..... Just a make sure....