Bruce Palmer

ZTherapy disclaimer -- You need carbs!! Now that that is out of the way, there's not much I can add to what you already have in hand. I've stumbled across this herky jerky gas pedal thing off and on over the years and if memory serves, changing the pedal height helped more than anything plus just getting used to what was going on. How heavy is the spring that goes to the bellcrank on the firewall? Maybe shoot us a picture showing the piece the spring and the dogbone hooks too. If the orientation of that's not up and down, but over center that can cause what you're describing. Call me with a credit card and we'll get the springs heading your way...

That hose looks to come off of the thermostat housing and must be plugged or you'd be out of water in relatively short order. As far as the running issues go, those flat top carbs were not worth burying the day they were new and they haven't gotten any better over the ensuing 30 some odd years.. NISSAN replaced many sets of those when the cars were new just to keep their customer base from pitching a fit. A set of round top three screw Hitachis in good shape (which most aren't pushing 40 years old) should solve your problems. Shameless plug -- We can fix you up with a set of remanufactured carbs and all the goodies to swap over.

We have the carb return springs made.

Final filters in the float bowl lids clean? Could be partially plugged especially if you're fighting rust issues.

I'm starting to get a better understanding for why guys are opting for the carb swap. BRrrrrr!

Was this latest evplosion at that same mine?

Well, there ya go....a guy just down the road that can help. Another side benefit will be that he can sell you off smaller quantities of kitty litter from the pallet loads he must assuradely be buying now for his "leakers". LOOK OUT HERE COMES ARN TO THE RESCUE OF THE BRITS

Jim, Just for the sake of conversation if one were looking at a car such as this that realistically would/could use that multitude of stuff, both big and little to make it a road warrior (read that reliable) what would that car be worth in Canada?

They will work, however, we have helped several guys convert to the SUs recently apparently because of "issues" they have encountered with the Stromberds on British cars.

Whewie..... I'd be going over that bad boy with a fine tooth comb looking for "coast patina" if'n ya know what I mean.....

We would extend an invitation to stop by ZTherapy here in Salem where we play all manner of "Datsun"..... Steve Epperly the owner of ZTherapy is very helpful and has assisted many owners with like projects. His problem is he can watch over you shoulder but doesn't have the time to do paying jobs. We stay busy with the carb building. Anyway, there are a lot of experienced guys around the shop who are always looking for new playmates. Call me and I'll give you directions....

Typically a flywheel will, after resurfacing at a machine shop, be pressed back into service. Been done a billion times. Probably why there aren't any around, it's a very low demand item.

Look at it this way..... Knowing you have an extra pump in your future every time, don't follow too close or you know, POW, BAM!! Had that problem years ago with big braikes with no dust shield. Always took an extra apply of the pedal to dry the pads before they were ready to be brakes. That extra gap between me and the car in front saved my bacon more than once. Some of this stuff just appears to be a problem. nyuck nyuck

You all aren't swelling my head. All the carb magic comes from Steve's efforts. Anyway, we, collectively, appreciate the kind words.

I'm on it!! Good news is I'm on it!! Bad news is there aint some!! We know of no sources for these floats as of about 6 months ago. If this remains an availability issue for the foreseeable future I'm going to say this once and once only.... Do not soak your compsite floats in carb cleaner unless you want to carve new ones out of balsa or some such. Our inventory is limited in used but we are controlling the sales of those so we don't run out.

Coming up with a flex plate may be a bit of a trick. Most of them are ending up in race cars for the base for race clutches.....

Truly odd here of late. I'm reading more posts about FI motors running poorly. Don't know what to say other than.... well, y'all know nyuck nyuck

Here's a shot in the dark. Precision Rubber in Cedar Rapids IA makes the kits most of us used to sell. 1-800-747-5402-Ext 5320 should get you to the help desk. The info I have doesn't show anything available for later than 78 but can't hurt to ask them......

Best to not do the normal "lookie louie" and get into a reputable front end shop w/o delay. There are some things you can ask your buds about, steering and suspension are not among them........

Any machine shop, with the courage to hang out a shingle, ought to be able to extract broken studs and clean up threads.......

Dan, If you can do any of the above mentioned stuff we have a suspension dvd that'll take care of that aspect of your project. And brake renew is pretty much a zero think.... Brake upgrade, another matter.

Murphy's Law: If there were more than one length of collar, you will have the wrong one. You do not need a larger master cylinder.... you'll only spit the piston out of the slave.

One of the first things we found after taking over the company was that 4 cylinder motors set up a harmonic at about 3 grand that literally rattled them open which would certainly lead to the overfill siuation and potential combustious maximus situation.... Old Scott did a fair country job of overselling the hell out of Grose Jets.

They were a simple two ball design. The float lever rose contacting a larger ball which in turn raised a smaller ball which shut the orifice. That's fancy speak for the "hole" through which the petrol comes a gushing......

Well, not hard to see where the majority of the remaining mid 50s Studebakers went. Man, those were great looking bodies.