Bruce Palmer

Imagine a rear end with 300k on it being lowder than when it was new....

Arne, Put a pin in for Ztherapy. Steve and Pam and about 7 Z cars that i can think of. Oh and one for Terry Miller in Salem for an EProduction car Steve will be driiving this year.

As long as the plastic head is not damaged that's what we re-use. We don't care about the condiition of the brass nozzle tube itself.

We have nozzles. I would suggest you buy a pair as they will be of known & equal condition.

Okay for everyone who felt they missed out on a great experience, I'm hereby giving out the link for the 2009 Arcata "up your ante!" All Datsun driving weekend. Dates are Aug 21-24 Arcata, Trinity Forest and the lost coast. http://datsun510.com will get the info. The main proviso they put forth for a fun time is to make your vehicle ROADWORTHY

Pull up www.socaltt.com to learn more. As far as back east goes, Bristol to Ashville and surrounding areas. Some of the prettiest country anywhere and surely twisties to go with. Might even find "Thunder Road" in there somewhere.

Here are 131 photos by Ted Hedman the owner of the red 510 as pilfered from the Bluebird list http://socaltt510.shutterfly.com.

With your electronic distributor PN 22136H-0501 which I was told had superceded any other plates for the electronics. They showed 6 in the Memphis warehouse. This came from Riley back in VA..... If it's out there he knows where to find it.

It's quite common for the advance plate in the distributor to be bound up. Between the 2 plates, the one that in anchored by the screw to the housing and the one the canister rotates is a locator keepers that holds three ball bearings in place so the 2 plates will turn in relation to each other. Often times the plastic keeper has degraded allowing the ball bearings to go where ever they want to go thus binding the advance plate thus no advance..... We tore down several distributors last weekend and found only one of the locator keepers intact. Once a ball bearing or two exits the scene, the top plate will/can **** to one side which isn't good either. I would hate to guess how many L-motor distributors there are running around out there that have this problem, but I'd guess there are a bunch. There are 6 new plates in the NISSAN sytem for I think I was told like $80. We are thinking of having some aluminum locator keepers laser cut because this is one of those problems that is only going to get worse over time. A problem at this point is trying to figure out how many variants they made and which distributor had which version. Just another case of someone stepping up and making those pieces that are drying up

Pulling the choke on to get it to run says they are way lean. Run the nozzles full UP and then back them down 2 1/2 turns and see what that does. Also it may be more busy work rhan anything, especially if you didn't change float levels, but with the nozzles at 2 1/2 turns down and after the car has idled for a bit, you can remove the domes and pistons and look down into the nozzle orifice and see where the static fuel level is in relation to the top of the top of the noxxle. You should see gas within a 1/16" of the top of the nozzle. Be careful when reinstalling the dome and piston to center the needle without any bind on the nozzle.

Check with Motorsport to see what theirs sell for. That way you'll know the "going rate". A set of those and some stub stacks from www.aptfast.com and any Z should be good to go....

It's funny this advance thing is coming up now. Just this weekend we were dissambling several distributors looking for a good slip plate that carries the little ball bearings for the advance plate. One of the things we are taking a look at getting into is the re-curve issue on the electronic distributors, which as Arn said tend to over advance and detonate on most non-smog applications. Three distributors I looked at had 18, 25 and 39 degree advances in the weights and T-bar so my guess is they are all over the map depending on what the original application was. There is a number stamped on the T-bar which if doubled will give you the advance built into that given distributor. We have altered these extreme curves on many electronic distributors on L-motors so as to not destroy mechanicals due to detonation.

Going back the oil thread, I just miked quite a number of the brass pucks and came up with essentially 2 different sizes. .45" & .48" with, at this point, no known reason for the difference. I'm tossing this out so you can check yours, number one to see if they match and number 2 to help you determin an oil weight to run. The smaller might favor 20wt and the larger one might favor something like ATF which we've run for years. Just something to check when you all are totally out of things to do.

Carbs have been mentioned, I believe, twice so far. This should be the easiest situation you're dealing with to solve. Check out www.ztherapy.com

So is the problem being able to stand for hours on conrete, not wanting to spend hours laying on conrete, or like me, not being able to get up off the concrete? Anyway, welcome to the forum. We can always use experienced input. Oh yeh, before I forget, you need carbs. Standard Friday afternoon answer.

Now that there's funny, I don't care who ya are......

DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT be confusing me with part numbers!!!! This is not rocket science. Just call me and we'll get some coming.

Drain plugs are pretty generic aren't they? Try a parts store. Why wouldn't any metric plug, the right size, work?

Not everyone here can just arbitrarily set-up and "mill" something like you can Mike. Nyuck nyuck..... Most everyone has a drill...... Everybody here with a mill hold your hand up. Another FWIW. There is a freeze plug on the 4 screw manifold half underneath and two on the screw manifold half which open into little water holding chambers in the maniflold. The reason for the 2 cavities on the 3 screw is because of the interior seperator wall inside.

So I'd surmise that if you wanted to run water through the manifold while blocking off water to the carbs, you could drill through that wall between the 2 passages to the carb base. I'm guessing drilling in one side and out the other was what was done to get water through the 4 screw manifold. We will look at some manifolds and confirm.....

Gary, Maybe we can enlist the aid of someone with a 3 screw manifold half lying around. If somone has one and wouldn't mind helping with this "Watch Mr. Wizard" experiment, plug the holes into the carb base and blow into the water inlet or outlet hole and see if air comes out the hole on the other side.

Mike, the profile of the 4 screw insulator is the same on all 4 sides. The 3 screw insulator profile between the bottom 2 bolts on the manifold drops down to allow room for the water holes.

The 4 screw insulators were not nearly as delicate as the 3 screw insulators so I'd say there would be more need for the 3 screw because so many have cracked from the water holes to the outside.

All the while "It's a Small World" is playing in the background. Gotta love the reach of the internet......

Mike, So you want no heatshield to help cool those float bowls in 100+ degree summer temps in Redding? If that's the case it wont make much difference where you connect the return springs...... Nyuck nyuck Datsun run being scheduled for later this summer in Eureka. Interested?