Bruce Palmer
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Everything posted by Bruce Palmer
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Actually, between you and me, it's more like 2 hours of the nuts and bolts info and 2 hours of stuff the previous owner thought was pertinent to the topic but in my estimation is just excess info. Akin to continuing to write a book long after the bad guy has been caught, tried, convicted, hung, and buried. The Jag carbs are doable. We've already got a Healey set of 2' SUs on the schedule for this winter when things will hopefully have settled down some...
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You might want to purchase a copy of our JUST SUs VHS or DVD to have in your tech library. Four hours of fun filled action packed info, guaranteed to tell you more than you ever wanted to know about SU carbs. Basically good comfort level discussion of what things are and what things do and how they inter-relate to each other. I've heard back from many customers about how the magic of SUs has been cleared up with this piece. We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming......
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Now I'm getting confused. How was your float bent? What caused that? How was your original float flowing poorly? What does that mean? Just a guess based on the "clues" given.... The float level was raised during the "un-bending" of the float which resulted in a rich conditon, resulting in easy starting due to fuel level being too high. I'd say new fuel pump has nothing to do with ease of starting, unless it is putting out too much pressure which we have seen with stock pumps. This in turn could over-power the needles and seats holding them open. Where is the "pooling on the ground" gas coming from? out of the bottom of the carbs? Out of the aircleaner, out of the mouth of the carbs?
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One other thing to do is check the pressure being put out by your new pump. About 3 1/2# is all the needle and seat will stand before being overpowered and held open resulting in an overflow situation.
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Take it to a welder and have a new section of rod welded on, grind it down and put it back on....... How on earth did it break when there is absolutely no stress on it?
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Around here most police officers and tow truck drivers have the thin jimmy bars and can have the door open in no time. Good luck
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Jim, Are you working with white metal or rusty steel? OSPHO being a convertor, I believe will need a rusty surface to convert. Sounds like the others may as well.
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Anyone in the Portland area have a fuel tank?
Bruce Palmer replied to justaZcarguy's topic in Open Discussions
Mike, our esteemed leader here, is supposed to be rounding one up to replace one he got from the shop. If that comes to pass we will have one. There are some at the shop now from boned out cars, but we haven't looked at them to see how rust free they might be. You are welcome to come plow through the treasure trove and see if there are any that meet your specs. -
Just another example of the willingness of the people on here to help. Good questions generally yield good answers.
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There is a product called Sea Foam that is supposed to do a fair country job of cutting carbon build-up from pistons. You might want to check with your local parts house and give it a whirl..... Any of you guys have first hand experience with Sea Foam??
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Sounds like dieseling. Not a carb problem. The carbs are just reacting to what the engine is doing. Can be from timing being too far advanced, too high compression ratio, carbon build up on the pistons or a combination of these.....
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How difficult it is to put a 280Z F.I engine in a 72??
Bruce Palmer replied to guy_geo's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Question din't say nuttin' about making it run and drive....... just puttin' it in..... We need better, more detailed questions on here..... -
How difficult it is to put a 280Z F.I engine in a 72??
Bruce Palmer replied to guy_geo's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
But to answer your question, putting that engine in, is a "snap"..... -
I'm having a lttle trouble understanding what "very minor hints of surface rust" would look like in relation to a painted surface. You are wanting to save the paint, so I'm assuming the paint is still there. Two choices at that point. If the rust is bleeding through the paint, means the paint was too thin and will never provide the protection you need. Second: if the paint is blistering because of crusty rust developing underneath the paint, you can pretty much assume any treatment of the rust will make the paint over it go away too. You need to get down to good sound steel and build your paint system back from there or the rust will just keep boiling sideways........ Pay attention to the back side of the offending panels. The rust may have holed through from the back side.
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Solution: Quit haulin' arse..... Seriously, a lttle more info. What carbs? Flat top or round top? How much fuel pressure are you running? Are your float levels correct? Even though the carbureted Z is simplicity personified, relatively speaking, there is more to it than just putting your boot in it.....
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Although we (ZTherapy) don't have a "garage service" for installing carbs for customers, Steve Epperly (the owner) is very helpful to those willing to tackle their own install while at the shop.
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We, ZTherapy, have a video showing the installation of a complete suspension set up. The previous owner of ZTherapy produced the video and it's been a coon's age since I watched it but for $15 you couldn't go wrong. One nice thing about the older NISSAN fleet, there pretty much is NO rocket science involved.....
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Bart. Geezer steered you right. Find a boat yard full of steel fishing boats and start asking what they use. For what you are doing, a quart of whatever ought to do you. If your steel is fully prepared white metal, anything should work. If you have existing rust you are going over, make sure whatever you end up using is "surface tolerant".
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How's old Bart doing coming up with some paint for his "frame"? I'm thinking he kinda got lost in the shuffle. Bart, I can't get you some Zero Rust either....... Nyuck nyuck.....
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Go to http://www.autobodystore.com/images/boattest.jpg The photos were taken after 16 months in service....
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Not to be too self serving here, but I'd be willing to provide a link (if any of you would be interested) to a heads up test done several years ago comparing Zero Rust and POR on the motor mounts on a salt water fishing boat. This test was done by a body man who was at the time a POR dealer and was trying to satisfy himself about the viability of Zero Rust vs POR.
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Are you talking about the back side of those panels, inside the doors, fenders, etc.? The point of going with a complete system from the steel out, is that if you have totally prepped steel, i.e. no rust, the automotive system will do fine and you will have no incompatibility (adhesion, lifting, etc) issues one coating to the next.
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Bart, Tell us more about the state of your body steel. Is it bare steel that you are wanting to coat? If so neither product you mentioned is the way to go. They both almost "require" some rust to be "effective". If you put down a moisture cure urethane at the steel level, the automotive paint supplier you choose will not do anything for you should anything fail in the future because of a product not of their manufacture. I'd very much suggest you start building from the steel up with a total automotive paint system.
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What do you mean "nothing" on the dogbone cups?
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Unscrew the gas peddle from the fire wall and clean the little shaft it pivots on too. The bellows probably aren't an issue. A little white lithium grease at all the connectors (dogbone cups, pivots) all the way to the carbs certainly wont hurt anything. My money's on binding worn shafts.