Bruce Palmer

Yep, that would have been on my top 5 picks list..... Nyuck nyuck

It would also be worth it to check the group your battery is and reference that to the group specified for the car. It may be a larger battery got put in by mistake? Going with a side post only battery would certainly forestall this happening again..... Just a couple of ideas. The tie down would most certainly be a winner....

Mike, For what it's worth, I quit using wax a long time ago and converted to the polymer "polishes" that seem to be gaining in popularity.

No throttle response sounds like linkage didin't get engaged between the carbs. Let us know what you find....

I noticed that too. Flat tops on the car and roundtops on what is maybe a spare parts engine. Odd, I say, odd.

I can't say what that balance tube is. Don't know that I've ever seen that extra gizzy. Other than that count the number of screws holding the domes on. I'd ask the carb guy but he's scrambling to get out of town for some shows and warm weather this weekend.

Rick, In any event get back to us with the solution..... Anyone on here ever take one of these units into a speedo shop?

So to get back to "correct", figuring 100 is 86, you need to go find a speedo drive gear for the tranny that is 14% smaller then the one you have, correct? Tha smaller gear will speed up the speedo while a larger gear will slow it down.

Chris, Seeing that you are somewhere in Canada the rust issue would be a great place to start. Take a decent size magnet with you and run it well over the lower extremities, rear quarters, rockers door bottoms, front fenders, etc. Any place the magnet wont hang on indicates the steel is gone and has been replaced with glass or body filler. Also carefully check front frame rails..... Good luck.

Well, that's what I get, reading about events 1200 miles away with one eye... My old dad used to tell me to pay attention, but I rarely did......

I just emailed a fellow who put on a Datsun Doheney picnic for several years, asking about the status. Seems like it was in October (?) if this is the same event as the one you guys are discussing.......

There was going to be a Datsun Fun run this weekend in and around Hood River OREGON. Please be advised it has been canceled for now because of snow expected in the area down to 500'...... I guess the "reschedule info" will be posted at www.datsunsnw.org when they figure out a new date.

Oh now, cut it out!! Keep this up Steve'll have to start using the sliding door to get into and out of the shop, what with head swelling and all. Anyway, thanks for the kind thoughts, he tries really hard to take care of his customers.

Freaky, You can also check out www.datsunsnw.org for listings of upcoming events in the area. Do you spend any time on the Bluebird list? It's 510s all the time and by definition they are modified more than not...... That is an odd, but interesting, difference between the 510 and Z crowd. Take Canby for example, there'll maybe be enough 'stock' 510s to warrant A trophy while the stock Z entries will be several. I'll have to count this year but I'd guess well over half of the 510s have moved on from an L-motor of any size to SR-20s VGs VQs etc. etc, etc.

A fix that was very popular when those cars were new was for the owners to bellyache to the dealers long enough and loud enough about how bad those carbs were in relation to the round tops from the earlier cars thus ending up with the earlier carbs. Your flat tops were an interim fix prior to NISSAN going to FI. We (Ztherapy) supply many sets of round tops to replace flat tops that are just now getting replaced, round top completes to replace degrading original FI systems, and of course, the replacement of run of the mill worn out Hitachis. Others will be along with resource suggestions as well, but let me suggest a read-through of www.ztherapy.com for a good amount of information on those earlier round top carbs.

Sounds like a smoking deal!!

Okay, so you have gas pooling up on top of the nozzles running down and dripping off the nozzle head. There are only 2 things that will allow that. 1. Float level is too high allowing a static fuel level at a level above the top of the nozzle or...... 2. Your nozzles, for what ever reason, a set too low (below the static fuel level in the float bowl) again allowing fuel to pool up on top of the nozzles.

Okay, here's a benchmark you can shoot for. With your nozzles set at 2 1/2 turns down from full up, start adjusting your float levels so the resultant fuel level rides within a 1/16" or so below the top of the nozzle. Check this by pulling the dome and piston and looking down in the tube with a flashlight. There should not be fuel standing on the top of the nozzle nor should the fuel level be way down the tube. This fuel-level-in-relation-to-the-top-of-the-nozzle is where the bear and the buckwheat cross paths.......

Art, Just for giggles the next time this happens, stop grinding, hop out and pull a couple of plugs. If they a way wet, you're over choking. Once they're wet, you'll spend the rest of your "natuaral born" battery trying to dry them enough to light.

Sounds like it's lean. Have to pull the chokes on to get it to run? That's richening.... Spittiing back through the carbs w/ the chokes off?.... That's a lean indicator. Try lowering both fuel nozzles a half turn and see what happens. If that improves the situation, try another quarter or half.

Where is the "seeping" showing up?

John Layton the manager of Discount Tire Puyallup WA has much experience with fitment on early Zsssssss. In fact I heard he is putting his Z up for sale. Great car, lotsa Epperly content.

Recoatability: Zero Rust and Rust Shield will recoat with fewer problems because both chemical and mechanical bonding mechanism are still available. The moisture cured Urethanes, POR, Rust Bullet, et al only have mechanical available becuse the chemical bond sites are taken up in the process of catalyzation. The "moisture-cures" use the moisture in the atmosphere to cure the film. This curing process results in a product that will require tie-coats etc to facilitate adhesion........ On the epoxy primer front, To my way of thinking the use of the alyds DTM (direct to metal) precludes the need for the epoxy primers at all. My point to users is to use ZR or ?? to lock down any existing rust, let the ZR go to full cure and then build your sandable system on top of that. Here's something for all of us to think about. If, your project has totally prepared white metal blasted steel, why wouldn't one just go with the automotive "sytem" from the steel up? These rust and corrosion control coatings have a place, but is this it? I would like to hear everyone's ideas on this. If we kick this can down the road for a bit I bet all of our projects can benefit.

Phil, So as to not have this become too self serving, I'll PM you with dealer info....

Okay, just to highlight this safety issue and fluff it up a bit, the isocyanates are kept out of the lungs with fresh air supplied breathin apparatus. Isocyanates are odorless so even though a good charcoal paint mask will catch 'em, because you can't smell 'em you can't tell that they got past a poorly sealing mask 'til it's too late. Isocyanates are why you see very few old painters. On the other hand the alkyds, Rust Shield and Zero Rust (the one Rust Shield knocked off) both will get you by with a good organic paint mask. If the mask doesn't get sealed well to your face, the solvent smell will let you know.. I've been marketing Zero Rust into the industrial and restoration market and putting distribution in place across the US and Canada for 20 years now and am willing to answer any questions to the best of my ability with Mike's blessing, so ask away.