Bruce Palmer

It all depends on your definition of high oil consumption. Filling to the top of the inner tube is not over filling like when guys fill to the top of the threads..... that's over fiilling..... If you fill to the top of the inner tube today, put the dipstick back in and drive the car, take the dipstick out tomorrow, you can refill the inner tube to the top again. You can do that day after day after day because the puck will displace it's volume of oil every time you reinstall the dipstick. Beyond that, I dare say, you can do that once every six months. How do I know? This is one of those "over the top" conversations and by that I mean the only place for the oil to go is "over the top" of the inner tube...... Now that's funny I don't care who ya are......

My oh my, some of these threads do drag on....... Near as I can tell y'all have reinvented the damper oil wheel about three times. Just saying. Keep going if you think there is at least unresolved issue out there.

Listen up all!! One of the best things you can do for your Z is to remove your fuse box periodically, strip all the fuses and give that bad boy a 10 minute bath in vinegar. After bathing, rinse in clean water, blow the water out or let it air dry. Reinstall and load with fresh fuses and I guarantee your electrical gremlins will be greatly reduced. All that oxidation on the contacts will be gone gone away. This has been the tour du force on the 510 side of things for years. Second thing 510 fathers teach their kids after the tying the shoes lesson has been completed.

I gather from your post that the paint and body thing is also new to you. With that in mind let me suggest you check out the DVDs available from www.Paintucation.com. Kevin Tets, one of the co hosts on Truck TV does a remarkable job on all facets of what you might run into along the way from rust repair right on through color sanding and buffing. Just reaaly great info to have in your library.

I'm vizualing a parts car full of stuff among them more than one choice of carbs rattling around therein. My point, right here right now, is that in order for any of them to "function" at some level, you should be looking down the gun barrel of having them (some or all) gone through before even giving them a try. Old gamey nasty dried out carbs will most assuredly be a crap shoot when pressed into service. Just saying.....

My success with kits in worn bores isn't that good. Pitted bores that wore out that last set of seals will also wear out a new set of seals. That dirty fluid you are looking at should have been used to flush that system a long time ago. All hydraulics should be rejuvinated with fresh fluid like every year whether in use or sitting. It draws moisture, corrupts the system and leads to premature system failure such as you describe "trying desperately to get home"..... "The clutch master is not leaking" ---- It has lost the ability to push fluid. The fluid is just excaping around the worn seal and staying where it is. As far as help with replacement parts, check a local NAPA and see what their lists show. I doubt NISSAN had six cylinders in total let alone six choices for that one model.....

Okay then, so disregarding the facts as laid our herein, when you find that O-ring take a picture of it and post it here....... Just saying there ain't no O-ring!! Like Arne said consumption of this oil should be "monster minimal" 'cause any that goes away will have to be sucked up over the top of the tube and with the tight fit between the tube and the barrel it runs uo and down in, 5 years could work too.

Mmmmm, There is only one way oil can escape the inner tube that is attached to the piston and that is over the top of the tube. Fill the inner tube to the top of the tube, put the plunger in and the puck on the end will displace it's volume in oil and that where it will stay. So if you are pulling the damper out and looking down in the inner tube and it appears low (like a 1/2" down) that's the LEVEL it will run at forever. I add to mine mabe twice a year with a little plastic pipette and I think it's as much for me as it is for the carbs. I probably push overfill out the second the damper gets screwed down.....

Pull the valve cover and see what's inside. Whatever it is, it's not good. When you pull the dip stick, what does it look like? Edit: Is this the hose from the valvecover or the hose to the PCV vavle from the crankcase. If it's to the PCV valve, safe top say the PCV valve hasn't worked for some time. A picture of this catch can and it's plumbing would be helpful. If you see dropplets of water are they clear or green like anti freeze

I have been using out of the same quart can of ATF for SOooooo long the can is made of cardboard. Ask any 12 guys what to use, you'll get 27 different answers.

The fact that both carbs do the gushy thing "together" strongly suggests it's fuel pressure holding the needles and seats open regardless of what the floats are trying to do to close them. And you're right, floatbowl lid gaskets tend to turn into potato chips once the lid is removed making them a B-i-t-c-h to reseal. We sell em' for $2 each and everyone of you Hitachi'd guys should have spares.....

Those nozzles aren't supposed to be tight. If theyare tight the chokes won'r work and the only time you need to worry about stopping fuel leakage is when you floats are too high.

Yes, there is only one length needle and seat that I know of so bend the tangs to accomodate the difference..... I can't tell you why that was done in the first place nor can I say which went where...... It's out and out bafflement!!

Headers, in Texas, in the summer...... Sounds like triple dipping to me. When you think you are facing that situation try pulling the choke on just a tick and see what that does. Not too much but just a bit to see if richening things up just to get started will help.

Now I'm sure most of you have seen winter footage taken in Portland Oregon where SUVs by the bunch are sliding and crashing with the brakes on turning them into hockey pucks. In years past when I had to drive across eastern Washington to Spokane, invariably, anything off the road on on their tops were AWD. But no, not excited about FWD in a MiniZ and too much light weight drivetrain stuff for AWD.

You know, this thread is an exact reason I have no problem sending guys with questions here to find some real information rather than some of the nonesense I see elsewhere. Whatever side of an issue you think you are on, you can generally find intelligent discussion here.

You guys sucked me into caring about another years old thread. Do wish you would stop doing that!!

I guess we collectively here at world headquarters of ZedTherapy don't know jack about n49 needles.

The chart I have only shows the n54 which was the smogger 240 needle. As compared to the SM the n54 will run fatter at idle and leaner up top. The SM profile is just the opposite, they will lean things out at idle and richen things up in the higher RPM range that why they were the first step up the performance ladder in the How to modify Datsun Engines and Chassis book in 73.. Just depends on what you goal is.... Not having any profile info on the n46 it might be safe to assume they might run on the lean side at speed as well. Dunno.I'll check with Steve and see if he has anything.... Steve said he'll look in some non U.S. books and see what he can find on the N49 needles. He's not heard of them before. N27's were four screw needles N54 were in between and N58 were really crappy late smogger needles..... P.S, Just got to wondering why that kit had new dampers in it. Anybody here ever wear out a damper? Ever in a million years? Every so often we'll get some cores in where it looks like Magilla Gorilla took one off whe Vice Grips but other than that can't guess why they would have supplied new ones.....

But it more than likely means your are driving around without your front or rear brakes......

Don't come snooping around ZTherapy..... We haven't been able to lay our hands on a complete weatherstrip kit for several years. Can't say why we still show it on the web site..... One of life's little mysteries

But, if it is legit, would anyone here change the oil, fill it with gas and take off for say San Fransisco? Everything on the car, with the exception of the brakes, is a ticking time bomb...... Lot of road along I-5 to be left standing beside between Seattle and S.F. Just sayin' this is a low mile geranium planter right now, and that kind of money is a bunch for a flower pot.......

By all means make sure you are GETTING FUEL TO THE CARBS. Electrical is okay because it's trying to light off with starting fluid or what ever that was. The worse job of float adjustment should at least get things to fire if gas is getting into the float bowl. It's all gravity from there into the fuel nozzles.

Do you know what needles you have?

Hard to diagnose someone else's work on unknown quality carbs from 2000 miles away so will only offer up that a thorough check out of the distributor might be in order...... I know we've had many comments about how our TUNE-UP dvd has solved many a "carb" problem.....