Bruce Palmer

And the carbs that were on the car when it went away, are now total junk and yes, they need to be replaced. That's the new standard answer for '09...... Nyuck nyuck Safe Sane Holidays Y'all

Just curious about the kind of Z specfic things you're thinking about. The early Z and most any of the other early Datsuns were about a sophisticated as your average garden tractor and most any "general repair" mechanic (if you can find one) should be able to tackle most anything on them. I'd say that may be your next goal, to go looking for a "mechanic" rather than your run of the mill parts replacer which seems to be what we have around today.....

Here's where we get too specific about things being Datsun and needing to be worked on by someone Datsun profiicient. Any decent transmission shop can seal up a tranny, be it Datsun or whatever........

Well if this bad boy has been in dry storage for 30 years, I guess it just points out the need to hose the salt off before you put 'em away. That rust hasn't just happenend in the last 2 years, if it had you could have heard it.

Pipe wrench with a cheater. With enough leverage you can move the earth.

Have you checked with Roger at Zbarn.com? He's right there in your back yard.

Details, details? Car, engine, ignition, induction.

Recently a Z (friend of a friend kinda deal ) showed up at the shop with fuel delivery issues. Long story short, cut the top out of the tank to find out what was causing the blokage and there was about a half inch of this tannish red granular substance covering the bottom of the tank, the baffles and up the sides of the tank a ways. We have seen like "stuff" one other time in the float bowl of a down draft Weber on a 510 wagon. It almost looked like what you'd think a filter element would look like if it dissolved. Fibrous, Granular in structure. This Z had about 5 gallons of fresh gas in it which did nothing to take this "stuff" back into solution. You could wring the gas out of it and have a hand full of dry "stuff" left behind..... Have any of you seen such as what has been described here?

After re-reading this several times I think things are coming clearer. The fuel regulator (actually called the float bowl) has a needle and seat which screws into the underneath side of the lid. Remove and douch it out with carb cleaner. Old varnish is what you're chasing. Take it apart if you have to. Then remove and clean the mesh screen filter which is also in the lid and clean it out. Fuel should then be able to enter the float bowl. Under pain of death, do not adjust float levels until well after you get the car running, if ever!! Bad things will befall you......

So which side of this one is the "fixer-upper line" on? On the Fiat topic: a friend of mine years ago had a '68 124 sport coupe that he picked up to go thru and after delving into it, it became apparent that the body was just about to dissolve from the rockers all the way around the car. Had something to do with the Russian steel they used.

I got with Steve this morning and he has everything you need with the exception of the long dogbone that goes across the fire wall. He can build you one fo those. Give a call if we can help......

If you have the foot feed and the rest of the stuff inside the car, the blow up looks like everything else through the firewall and on to the balance tube is the same as the US models. Pretty sneeky how they did that.....

Paul, Is that the closest 5 speed to MA? There have to be 2,320 transmission rebuiders between Sacramento Ca and you, any of whom could build a gear box..... Just sounds kinda odd to me....

As a '72 you should need 3 screw carbs.

Quickest route to a solution would be for both of you to post photos of what you have, one will show what is required and the other will show what's missing..... www.ztherapy.com more than likely will have any of the needed parts. Again, need photos....

Price doesn't appear out of line, but he has severly limited his market by being where he is.

I'm afraid the Grose Jets haven't been available for several years. Why, you might ask, don't we get off the dime and correct the float level setting procedure on the video? We just may be doing that here shortly..... Film at eleven....

Monkeyman, You touched a nerve with your statement about "all of a sudden the rear carb started running poorly" or words to that effect. I'm only using your statement as an example of how guys get in trouble fixing carbs trying things that could never or rarely be the problem. The key element to keep in mind is "suddenly, overnight, just the other day" it started to run like crap. When that is the case, look at things that can change suddenly. Foreign material holding a needle and seat open, water in the gas beading up in the bottom of the float bowl, choke sticking on, basically things that can change. I talk to way too many guys who say they immediately attack the "float settings" without addressing why it would be that a float would all of a sudden decide to "change". So my statement to all you guys is that SUs are pretty simple and fairly intuitive. Think your way through the situation and "check" everything over before making "changes". The problemsand their solutions, often times, can be very obvious.

Oh No you don't!! You're not painting me in that corner.....

No, Carl, that car wont go for $5500, nor should it. A "done" car for $5500 would be the all time smoking deal. Guesstimates as to the value of a new 2.8 motor is, ready to run? Ztherapy induction set up complete? Complete new front suspension, comp springs, urethane bushings all the way through. 5 speed, r200 3:70 diff...... complete new rubber kit installed?? And that's just what comes quickly to mind. There will be a bazillion other things addressed on this car before it's judged right and ready to ho down the road. On the Spokane car, glad you decided to hang in. Bring it to Canby in June.

The "cooler" factor. We just got my 510 wagon back on the road with new 2300 LZ and new wheels. I took it to a Zero Rust jobber Tuesday evening to do a product knowledge meeting and everyone that works there wanted to make a move on it. It's always a conversation starter. My frame of reference is that my car will serve me for the fun and frivolity factor and if it's worth a buck ninety five when I'm done with it, I miscalculated. I bought a done 2 door 510 a hundred years ago, or so it seems, and everyone said it wasn't worth what I paid for it. The prevailing thought was that I couldn't sell it for what I had in it. My retort was that I wasn't going to sell it. Over the ensuing 9 years I put 300K on the 2 door and didn't have $5K in everything I did too it excluding gas and oil. Talk about cost per mile and bazillion smiles. Everyone has a different slant on their cars and their hobbies, which is the way it ought to be. Nothing better than a danged ol' Datsun!!

Carl, Herein lies the buying decision that we all have to make. Just as an example, Arne recently posted about, I believe, a 280z he found on the local Craigslist for it seemed in the five grand range. Nothing special just a nice well maintained 280, that is ultimately going to need all the stuff needed to bring it up to snuff for a good reliable driver. Nothing will kill an old low miler car faster than sitting around. If the goal for a car is to sit around like a geranium planter that's okay, but if driving your Z is then goal, then it had better be up to date and ready to run. Out here we drive 'em. The car Steve is building will have everything gone through from stem to stern and wont go for some of the silly prices I've been seeing on here for lesser cars. So what the decision is, do I want to spend $5500 for a nicely maintained 37 year "old" car that will ultimately need to be gone through or something more for a "new" 37 year old car? Too many of us get carried away with the fact that a high priced car is "done" and ready to provide years of trouble free service and enjotment. Too many just turn out to be expensive "projects". To my way of thinking, if it's going to need to be gone through, I'm not paying market price and dumping extra cash into it. Nothing worse than having $20K in the nicest $7500 car in the show. Thus endeth the sermon....... Cheers

I have no way of knowing the status of what he has. Consider it a $100 core. I doubt he'll ship it either. We have found a good machine shop near Salem that speaks L series fluently.

Might I slip in a sneeker here that Steve Epperly the owner of ZTherapy is building an orange 73 that will be for sale once finished. This will be a turnkey car that won't need anything, built by a man who's been into Datsuns since Zs first appeared in this country...

That is too funny. There is a garage near me with a complete running engine he can't wring a hundred dollar bill out of. You'd think with everyone going 2.8, that 2.4s would be a dime a dozen.