Bruce Palmer
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Everything posted by Bruce Palmer
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Not losing fluid you say? If fluid is not leaking out of the closed system then you've more than likely lost seal inside the master cylinder not allowing fluid to be "pushed" into the front or rear brakes. Good preventive maintenance is to completely bleed your brake system once a year of all old fluid and contaminants. Your over all brake system will last much longer. Many times when fluid is being lost but you can't tell where, it is leaking down the inside of the firewall leaking around the seal in the back of the MC turning carpet and padding into a mess.
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With the Tune up kit you will get the JUST SUs video which will explain everything. You don't need to send the nozzles in ahead of time. Bruce Palmer Sales@ztherapy.com
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Too funny. This will be the last attempt I make at this discussion ever I promise. ;^)
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Steve, Those flat tops you had on the 510 were more than likely the SSS1800 JDM carbs from the 610 and not the boat anchor Z flattops. Hate to see those 38mm carbs get a bad rap when they are not the offenders......... There always seem to be a quantity of the Holley lashups for sale on Ebay for cheap. Almost makes one wonder why........ Just saying.
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Certainly a good cleaning of the fuel nozzle and the housing it slides in is in order. Our Just SUs Video also covers unscrewing the linkage at the bottom and bending a little bind out of it...... The linkage can get bent and apply enough sideways pressure on the nozzle causing it to bind in the tube. Take it easy and evaluate as you go along. Pretty common sense stuff......
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Jason Waalkes at jwaalkes(removethis)@canby.com and he'll be happy to hook you up with a commitee needing help. Someone needs to jump in right now and contact Jason about offering to do a poker run or something fun around the run down to Silver creek Falls...... Just a thought if they haven't already covered it..................... Anyway, I bet Jason would appreciate any offers of help...
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Carl, If we don't get some rain soon and some snow in the mountains, we'll be washing our cars at the Canby meet with feather dusters. You and your southern California neighbors have gotten all our moisture this winter, and all that's going to do is make the grass grow on the hillsides, then they'll catch fire and around the barn you go......
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SM's are a profile that fatten things up in the upper RPM ranges on the early Z car. They tended to, with the stock Hitachi needle, lean out up top.
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How does "Datsun Driving Canby Fun" strike you for the Canby Meet?
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The 3 screw carbs had provision for water from the intake manifold thru the insulator block to pre heat the carbs. Other than that there isn't a nickles worth of difference between the 3 and 4 screw carbs. The parts store kits have nothing of any consequence in them but they'll stab you like they do. I would suggest a set of SM needles for drivability issues and new fuel line from the float bowl to the nozzle. See many of these that are too old and brittle and about to become a major fire hazard. After you do whatever you are going to do, we buy cores..............
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If you don't want to trust those old but bled brake hydraulic components, I would replace all the masters and slaves along with the rubber brake lines with new off the shelf product from a reputable parts house. And I would open all the new cylinders up and clean the trash from the manufacturing process out and reassemble them. A vinegar bath for the fuse box and as many electrical connectors will liven up the electron raceways in the vehicle too. The statement about just about everything you touch will need help is right on the mark. In a lot of instances, sitting can be harder on a vehicle than running. Oh, and PS: fix that fuel pump.
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I continue to look for products that are both safe to work withfor the DIYers and effective on the job. This includes getting away from isocyanates in POR to methylene chloride in Aircraft Paint Stripper. To this end there is a water borne paint stripper by the name Removall on the market. Very nice product to work with does not burn skin and does not make goo mess the Aircraft does. I think Sherwin Williams handles the line and I can't recommend it highly enough......
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While in the midst of discussing rust and corrosion control coatings, let me throw out a web site which discusses what many consider to be a superior, as well as safer for your health and easier to use alternative to POR. www.zerorust.com is the site. Also check out http://www.autobodystore.com/images/boattest.jpg for photos of a heads up test ZR to POR on the motor mounts onna salt water fishing boat. Make your own choices but be aware there are safer alternatives out there.
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I think Andrew has it wired. The inside end screws on and has a lock nut and the end in the engine compartment is molded on. Can't imagine how much force you had to apply to bust that cup off. Anyway, ZTherapy can probably rustle you up a reasonably priced replacement from the "spares locker"........... Call me if you're interested. 503-587-9800 or email me at sales@ztherapy.com
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Back in the olden days (when I was a lad) they talked about talking a rig out and blowing the carbon out of it. Sounds like that's where you're at today. When the car gets driven, does it get driven far enough to get fully warmed up, I mean fully warmed up? The exhaust needs to get hot enough to burn that accumulation of condensation out or you'll just make you neighborhood exhaust guy happy. It does sound like things are rich, and you might also want to take a look at a set of hotter plugs.
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Your 3 screw carbs were the later members of the early carbs and should have hinged hanging floats. We do however see just about every permutation of parts coming in on the cores we get so believe me when I say nothing surprises us....... And then you have the situation where them little Hitachi assemblers were using whatever was in the parts box that day. They learned that from the British....... :laugh:
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Question regarding carbs. Should I or should I not?
Bruce Palmer replied to sonofzzzap's topic in Engine & Drivetrain
Stephen, Those flat top 38mm carbs on the 510 are then same as the round top 38mm 2 bolt mount Hitachis. The round top were SSS1600 510 JDM and the flat top were JSDM SSS1800 610. This is why they were so easy to tune. The flat top Z car carbs were the smoggers that got changed out in a lot of cases when the cars were new. We just had a guy here swap out his EFI because pieces to keep it running were NLA or not easy to find. His car runs really strong and he is having the time of his life. He thought this would be a good way to keep his car alive without worrying about a bunch of 30 year old wiring and plastic pieces going g-fritzen!! -
Jason, Those brass free floaters were in the 1600 roadster and 510 38mm carbs and do tend to develop tiny hairline cracks allowing those bad boys to sink. Ask me how I know and how far out of state I was when it happened. Keep an eye on them. Take 'em out every so often and shake them to see if they are taking on gas.
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Jason, You have free floating metal floats? We no longer use Grose Jets. Can't get them consequently can't supply them.
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My guess would be a piece of grit holding the needle and seat open. When you have the lid off, take the final filter out behind the fuel inlet tube and see how much garboon is packed up in there and clean it out too............ We'll do the carb thing when you're ready. Damn another lost order. :disappoin :disappoin
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I think you're money ahead to have a tranny gone thru like on the exchange deal sited above. These cars and the compnents are not getting any younger and the time comes to bite the bullet and start refreshing components so you know where you are. Now having said that who knows a good rear end set up guy?
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Wingnut, That set "in storage" might be a good way to go. Throttle shafts and bushing don't wear out sitting in a box if ya know what I mean.......... Our JUST SUs video or DVD, 3 or 4 cans of carb cleaner and some rudimentory hand tools and I'll bet you could have them cleaned up and running pretty inexpensively. Our tune up kit ZT150 would have everything you'd need to fix everything but worn shafts.
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Michael, You really do need to talk to Steve Epperly about this stuff especially the A-motor permutations. He knows how to get 46mm SU's on an A-motor and I'm not that current on that lash up so will probably not be of much help in helping you get it right. Steve did say that most of this stuff is near unobtanium here in the states as it was mainly JDM offerings only. He has some examples of manifolds and or complete sets, etc. but is not really excited to sell any 'cause he plays with A-motors in a couple of autocross cars here locally. Anyway, he said he would be happy to talk with you.
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Michael, I am running 46s on my 2300 LZ motor in my 510 wagon. Bolted to an opened up 2 bolt manifold with custom center links. Steve also modifies the 2 bolt 4 cyl manifold to 4 bolt mount and we are even making 4 bolt 46mm heat shields for the 4 cylinder head........ Of course as the company sales guy I'll be the last to get one on my car, don't ya know..... Like the shoemakers kids kinda thing....... Anyway this stuff has been in the hopper for years so don't be afraid to ask.
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You might want to look over the 260Z owner section of the ZTherapy.com price list to study up on the offerings in totally built carbs and accesories. There is however, nothing wrong with going with used SU's if they are servicable. The 260 did have a large amount of "stuff" hanging on the manifold and balance tube you might want to sanitize.