skunkteeth

On a spare intake I had I have seen the pintle style and this style. I guess it will work OK. But I am wondering now if the pintle style is better.

I just bought some new injectors off ebay for my NA 76 280z. 5 of the injectors have nothing in the shaft, but one has a white thing inside. I have attached pictures. Which style is correct? Should I take the white thing out?

I had the same problem. I ended up putting the wrench on there so it was almost horizontal and using a floor jack to losen it up

I was able to finish my autometer install in my dash that I repaired using this method I repaired it about 2 months ago and it has not cracked again.

When you cleaned the gas tank did you replace the fuel filter?

I went through a problem that I thought was fuel but was actually spark. At about 2000 rpms the car would shudder and shake violently, except when I had my old alternator in. I put a high output alternator in, and that is when the shakiness started. I had a bad ground on my new alternator, and the car would be fine because of the voltage drop with the headlights on. Fixed the ground then it was always bad even with the headlights on. I figured it was the coil, and it was. Replaced it and all the stuttering is gone, and my mileage went from 14 to 20 mpg. You might just want to check the coil but Im sure someone will have better advice.

Here you go: http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90002000a.pdf

On my 76 280z Blue wire to coil negative Black/white to coil positive A couple of wires are eliminated that hooked up to the ballast resistor on mine because I have a XR3000 If you have a XR700 you still need to use the ballast resistor. With an XR3000 you can eliminate the ballast resistor. Look up your wiring diagram for your car and for the crane unit you have and you should be able to get it.

I was looking to do it at this place: http://www.mmmetalizing.com/pricing.html I have 2 sets (280z), along with armrest pieces.

Look at the first image: http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ If you have your stock N42 Head with flat tops, your compression ratio is about 10.4 according to the above site. There could have been severe detonation...

I saw these also while on their site. I really like how they look...will probably be getting them during the summer after paint.

I replaced my fusible links with a modern AGU style fuse box ala this: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html I did not buy it from him but sourced all the stuff I needed. It came to about 60 with 5 of each fuse for each rating. I bought it from a car audio supply store online. It cleans up the engine compartment a bit and makes finding fuses a bit easier

The brown fusible links are actually red (50A). One is for the headlight switch and the other is for the ignition switch. Try switching the intermittent with the non intermittent or seeing if cleaning the connection fixes it. EDIT: You say the electrical pump works, I suppose you mean the fuel pump. Did you try other electrical stuff like the lights/radio/wipers etc?

240SX Throttles are popular, they are 60mm. And the QH45 Throttle is 90mm. Arizonazcar and pallnet sell spacers so you can use the stock linkage with the 240sx throttle.

I live in Riverside...out of curiousity, where is this?

Crap! I looked now and that is what has been on mine since I have had it. I am guessing it will break down over time?

My coil in my 76 280z was looking pretty worn, and my car has not been running so well. I replaced the coil with an MSD Blaster 2HV and now the tach will work up to 1000rpm, then drop top 0 once it hits around there. It will move but it only looks like it shows about 1/10 what the actual reading is. I could tell the car ran much smoother at idle with the new coil though. Why would a new coil cause the tach not to work correctly? The car has a CraneXR3000 and no ballast resistor. I have searched but all the tach problems seem to be related to 240's.

My mistake! Thanks for the correction.

I had this same problem, and what seemed to correct it was just moving the dash light dimmer down a little bit then back up.

I have a 76 280z with a Z specialties one wire alternator. When driving the car with no other electrical load, sometimes it will chugg/hesitate at around 2500 rpm, if I stomp on the gas it stops the hesitation. But when the headlights or the blower fan is on, it wont behave like this. Could this be a bad connection somewhere? EDIT: Another explanation I could think of is with the other electrical load, the temp rises to about the middle of the gage because of the increased load on the alternator. The temp sensor is new. Could the increase in temp make it run leaner if it was hesitating from running rich?

So recently I noticed the air when my non-factory ac is on is no longer cold. My guess is all of the refrigerant leaked out. Im guessing this may be because the lines are just heater hose with regular pipe clamps. Is there a certain hose and clamp that should be used? The previous owner said in was R134 but with what I have seen who knows how accurate that is. Is there a way to tell what kind of refrigerant I have? I did not see any stickers. Thanks

Last Saturday i was driving to del taco in riverside and saw a crappy zx and in 2 more minutes saw a perfect Zap 280.

Thanks for the help. I am going to get some other parts from MSA tomorrow so I am just going to pick up the stainless cable/master/slave while I am there, because I have to have my car working Monday. Having a 32 year old car for a daily driver is a battle every weekend haha

This morning my clutch started to feel funny. All of a sudden there was not much resistance and it had some trouble shifting. I pulled over and the fluid in the master was fine, although a dark brown (is this the correct color or should it be drained?). I am able to shift through the gears just fine with the clutch but it just had little resistance. This has happened once before but it almost immediately went back to normal. Also when the engine is off I can cycle through the gears with no clutch. Any ideas? Thanks

Ah, so thats why mine are blue