AZ-240z

Hi Kats, Before I found my NOS shift boot shown below, I too was trying to find the correct grommet in order to make a good reproduction boot. You may want to contact Nix at www.240zrubberparts.com to see if he could make this grommet. I would think that a well reproduced early shift boot would be very popular. Dan

Gary those fender fasteners between fender and hood were painted. The bolts fastening the bottom of the fenders at the pitch welds just behind the front wheel wells were painted. the 4 fasteners on the front of the radiator support fastening the edges to the inner fender are painted. All of the other fasteners you mentioned are correct. Let me know if more pics would help. Dan

I think everyone is overthinking the correct hubcap, grill, and tail light surround color and how to match it. I purchases a rattle can of paint from Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports and it is almost a perfect match of color, texture, and low gloss as compared to the original. I have a set of NOS D-caps, and a NOS grill which are the exact same color. When compared to a set of D-caps I restored with new chrome and paint from Les, judges could apparently not tell any difference. If you really want to get into the weeds, the edge where paint and chrome meet on NOS D-caps is what I call a soft edge with no tape line. Good paint suppliers have a rope like product used to mask this edge and create this soft paint edge. attached is a picture of a NOS D-cap on the left beside my restored D-cap on the right. Just my thoughts! Dan

To answer your question, I would have to know if originality is your primary motovation in the restoration process.

Someone on this forum reproduced the shift boot maybe 6 or 7 years ago. Do a search for “series 1 shift boot” to find who it was. Dan

Couldn’t agree with you more. When you said “this unfortunately be for sale soon” I wasn’t clear on what you were referring to.

Are you selling those carpet hold down clips?

siteunseen, I wanted to protect my car without modifying it, ie., drilling holes or otherwise making any non- reversible change which would impact its originality. Granted, my extinguisher is small and I hope to never need it, but it should be adequate to smother a fire before it gets out of hand. The Velcro straps hold it very tightly against the passenger forward seat mounting support and easily accessed. I also installed a battery quick disconnect that just clamps onto the negative battery cable and terminal and, with the twist of a knob, disconnects power from the battery. Time being a critical element with fire, my plan is to have readily available both an extinguisher and means to remove electical power in order to attack a fire under the dash, hood, or car quickly. Short story of an experience I had many years ago while driving home from a round of golf with a friend. We were in my Z and stopped at a traffic light. An older lady diving a 50s or 60s vintage Mercedes sedan pulled up behind me at the stop light when I noticed smoke coming from under her hood. Flames followed almost immediately, and, as I pulled forward to get clear, here entire car became engulfed in fire and burned to the ground. She jumped clear and we all watched the total destruction of her car which took only minutes. this is an option that works for my car, and I know you will determine what best works for your car. Best of luck. Dan edit: Having just read the Pop’s Z comments above, I am going to replace my extinguisher with a new one. Cheap insurance for the price, and will test the old one, as it is several years old, to see if it’s still functional.

Glad I could help.

I mounted mine in front of the passenger seat and held in place with a ribbon of Velcro which is passed through a hole in the seat foreward support and around the extinguisher. Pull the red Velcro tab and it’s free.

Kats, I have finally found all of the necessary parts for my differential relocation, and wanted to again thank you for helping me find a NOS diff. insulator. below, I wanted to include a picture of my restored mustache bar as I have, again, taken a lesson from you on how this should be done. Thanks again, Kats.

Given the condition of these D-medallions and the rarity of finding a set of these for sale sans entire wheel cover (hubcaps), I would say the price is reasonable. But, as someone so famously said, you can’t put lipstick on a pig, so the hubcaps that these would grace would need to be of equal or better quality or the value would not be realized. Just my opinion.

Mine is also a E3002 and measures 8 3/4" from the shoulder to tip as well.

Daughter came for a visit this weekend and sewed my 6 reproduction seatbelt manuf tags on. Beautiful!

You actually don't have to glue anything. If you are using the stock original style door weatherstrip, the inside, upside down U shaped edge of the weatherstrip fits over the door threshold pinch weld. The welting is then pressed down over this pinch weld, weatherstrip combination which captures the door weatherstriping securely to the car threshold. Hope this helps.

Kats, it's good to hear from you. Interesting that Tetsu was able to fit an E8300/8301 insulator on your car. I would be interested to know which front diff crossmember he used with it, and if he did turn it 180 degrees to line up the mounting holes. Was he able to fit the early composite exhaust hangar? Good find with the NOS E4102. That insulator in NOS condition can no long be found on this side of the pond. Dan

Also, good info on the stock exhaust hangar location. That would be the threaded hole just to the right of the insulator in your picture, above. Not sure what the threaded hole just to the left of the insulator, as pictured, is for, unless there was a dual exhaust setup for other S30 iterations. As luck would have it, I do have that NOS stock steel/rubber composite early exhaust hangar as well. Let the fun begin. Dan

WOW, Namerow, you have exceeded all expectation with your reply. Many thanks. Since posting my inquiry, I have gotten very lucky and have found all of the pieces, used condition so far, to make the conversion from post 7/71 series 2 differential rearward location to the pre 7/71 series 1 forward position. I agree, Namerow, that it "appears" that the later front diff mount insulator (55415-E8300) should Interchange with the earlier insulator, (55415-E4102). The club parts CD shows that the early (55415-E4102) insulator needs to be used in combination with the early diff front mount crossmember (55411-E4100), and do not interchange with the later insulator (55415-E8300) and mount crossmember (55411-E8300). From what I have been able to find, others have tried to use the later insulator to move the diff to the series 1 location and bolt hole locations just didn't quite line up without the need for serious modifications, if that were at all possible. anyway Namerow, you pictures are terrific only to be exceeded by your ability to do searches. Thanks Again, Dan

Sorry to revive an old thread, but have been looking for the impossible which is the early diff front mount insulator, ie., # 55415-E4102. Does anyone have a photo of this insulator and a photo of the later insulator, 55415-E8300? Just wondered if this later insulator could be turned around to work as #55415-E4102. Thoughts?

Manny, you have characterized these re-created tags as "awesome" in the result. As I have just received my order of these tags for my car, I would also add that, as I am aware of the definition of the term, they appear to be a "flawless" re-creation of the original. For those interested in getting the best products for there coveted cars, this is as good as it gets. Thanks 240Ziggy. Dan

Kats, you answer all of my questions, sometimes before I can even ask. The picture above of the correct tag location and orientation is just ------"Perfect". Dan

Thank you 240Ziggy, Mike B, and 26th-z for helping me get it right. Dan

Ziggy, after some soul searching, and inputs from Mike B, could you change my tag order for a total of 6, and make the date code 12 - 1970? Thanks, and let me know if that works for you. Dan

Mike, that is exactly my reasoning for asking the date code question, so thanks for your thoughts. I seem to remember earlier date code discussions used the same reasoning, and even two month before car production dates would not be considered unreasonable for parts codes. Dan

Thanks for doing this, Ziggy, but I have a question that you, or someone here may help me with. I believe my car had 6 tags in total, one on each lap belt, and a third on each shoulder harness. Mike Bs' picture above also shows a shoulder harness tag. Your offer is for a "set" of 4 tags, but didn't all 240zs come with 6? That being said, could you do 6 tags for me and I will gladly pay the pricing that you have established? I am also torn between using a date code of "12-1970" for my 1/71 production car instead of "1-1971" as it was said to have been made in the first half of January. Since I don't have the original tags on my car to confirm the actual date, any thoughts, anyone? Dan