AZ-240z

Enjoyed the pictures of your beautiful Z. I’ll give you my take on the cause and possible fix of your fuel/exhaust smells. I’ve done everything you did to seal all obvious sources of interior leaks. To make all the changes in grommets, weatherstripping, etc., I had removed all interior paneling and carpeting in the cargo deck area. Upon close inspection I found that the weld seams around the edges of the rear deck floor had some gaps showing daylight. A little rope calk fixed that and no more exhaust smells, window open or closed. this may be obvious, but, when you open a window, this causes a Venturi effect which sucks out cabin air and sucks in exhaust through leaks in the rear deck area, so the exhaust isn’t really coming in the open window. Hope this helps. Dan

Here is a pic of mine as installed during restoration!

I would carefully remove this tag and put it in a clear photo grade plastic sleeve for future reference. All the information a judge would need, if he bothered to look, is embossed on the muffler itself. The exhaust system on my car is all NOS with this very same muffler. As rare as this is, I had the whole exhaust ceramic Jet-Hot coated in the original bare metal finish to preserve it through a life's worth of heat cycles.

You’re welcome!

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catRubber.php

I agree that it looks like it should with the correct original fitting gaps. But, just looking at the male latch on the hood, if the hood center is high, would it be possible to screw the male latch catch further into the hood so it would seat lower in the female latch catch on the firewall? probably all wet, but just asking.

Hi Kats. You were my inspiration in my car’s restoration, so happy to be able to return the favor in some small way. Dan

A couple of things I noticed, not to be critical but in the interest of correctness on this early car, can be seen in picture #113. The lower door rubber seal appears to be installed with the seal flange outboard instead of inboard of the door bottom. Also, the door dovetail striker below the latch is the later, universal dovetail with the beefier mounting hole opening. The earlier dovetails had thinner mounting hole openings which tended to crack under use. The earlier dovetails were also side specific, ie., left and right. In picture #115, the inner rocker scuff plates should be mounted with 5 Phillips screws, not the three used on later series cars. A drill will remedy this. And, the door weatherstripping appears to be a replacement tubular seal as opposed to a more accurate reproductions available in the market. this is indeed a beautifully restored car touched by Pierre, the master of Z reincarnations.

I, too, have a pair of NOS storage covers on my Z. As Kats said, I take the hold-down knob off completely, and use a fairly thick and large black rubber washer for a bigger footprint and flexibility for soft, even pressure.

Oops, saw that too late to edit!

I have a piece of NOS jute for the 1969-70 passenger side under-seat and tool storage area that measures 8.27mm in thickness.

This is just a shot in the dark, but I had a clunking noise when shifting. Found that the two fasteners securing the mustache bar to the rear diff housing had loosened up. The clunking went away when re-torqued those nuts.

I totally agree with everything that 26th commented about the durability and lack of protection this front overrider bar provides. Here is a picture of my car when new with the addition of this bar, installed by the selling dealership. Dan

Trouble shooting electrics is not my thing, but,I do remember that tiny adjustments on a set screw on the back of the hone housing makes a big difference. You’ve probably already gone there, but this set screw adjusts the gap of horn coil points. Here is the reference in the Service Manual:

Got the same set a few months ago. Wish I had done this years ago. The perfect tool for my perfect Z.

I don’t know if this will add to the glove box discussion, but I have this NOS glove box with two notches and the bag with “A Glove Box” description on the parts tag. There are no chalk marking on the box.

I’ve used Plasti Dip and it works great! It can be brushed on as well as dipped and looks as good as original rubberized tabs. A couple of coats or whatever looks best to you.

A lot has to do due with shape of a 240z fuel tank. The top of the tank on the passenger side is higher and that is where the sender resides. The majority of the 15.9 gallons is contained in the lower half of the tank. This may make sense once you look at the tank and location of the sender.

If you want to take a deep dive into these door panel screws and finish washers, here is a thread I started about 16 years ago.

Dave, I have a 1971 series 1 car, so not sure if what I have would be the same for your 280z. the original trim screw for my car is a black oxide, self tapping, oval head Philips screw. The finish washer is a clear plastic rounded, or dished washer. The screw measures approx 9mm of thread length with a total length of approx 13mm. See photos below. Hope this is what you are looking for.

I’ll have to agree with 26th. The proportions are wrong. The air dam opening should be narrower, and the upper grill opening should be wider than the air dam opening. Don’t know if this makes sense, but the styling makes the front end look heavy. Think of the bumper placement on my 240z as it divides the grill opening. Just my thoughts.

Hi Jerry. Just a thought. If originality is important, my car’s riser tube is original. the outside is some kind of fabric and is very close to “sailcloth white”, a paint I used to refresh mine. See pictures below. btw, good to see you back! Dan

Scroll down to #6 and you may find what you’re looking for. https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mgb-and-gt-forum.1/clark-cars-of-prescott-arizona.2955328/ Dan

After seeing this thread, I had to go out to the garage and check out my D612-52 dizzy I picked up on eBay, supposedly off of a barn find parked in 1978. Also came with a nice set of Sumitomo plug wires dated coded 1977. anyway, after tearing it down, it also only had the single spring, FWIW. Dan