doradox

You will be in for some big trouble if you use rubber washers on the diff studs. You won't be able to torque the nuts to the proper value as it will squeeze out the rubber and leave the diff rocking on the studs. The mustache bar and diff must have a solid connection. Steve

230 is not normal but you don't need to "upgrade" to fix it. Stock components in proper working order should keep your temp at 180-200 in all but the most extreme conditions. Steve

I had a 62 1200 spyder when I was 17. It was a really fun car but as you alluded to not too fast. It's one I often wish I still had. Steve

That looks damn nice. I like the black spoiler against the red and the way the badges are placed. Steve

Or how about this version. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUIU-cU9Lvs

Lots of great ones mentioned. LA Woman has a great driving beat. I like a little Joe Satriani with my driving. Here's a couple I have on the USB stick right now. and one for when you are in a more mellow mood. Steve

You weren't really on the TDC. Double check by pulling the no. 1 plug and bumping the engine around until you get some compression. Just plug the hole with your finger, you'll know when you have compression. Now that you are on the compression stroke and if you line up the marks on the balancer you should be good. Your car can't run if the timing is 180 off. That's how you know it really isn't. Steve

Pipe diameter can make a huge difference in how the exhaust sounds. Tip length and diameter can be used to tune the sound. Even just a few inches worth like on a Z. As a general rule longer and smaller around is quieter. I've used the tip as a tuning device to eliminate resonance in several exhausts I have built. Steve

The price on the Aussie part was good mainly because of the exchange rate at the time which was about 1.5 AUD to 1 USD. It's about 1.15 AUD to 1 USD right now. I and another member bought one each so the shipping was a little less per unit also. The quality is good but the hole that the latch protrudes through is a little smaller than the one on my 72 so it's not an exact replacement for that year. I can't vouch for any other year. Steve

I got mine here for about $85 shipped. Of course the exchange rate was very favorable at the time. https://rsp-secure.com/rarespares/default.asp?car_type=34A&model=DATSUN%20240Z%20260Z

No need to touch the rears. Separate circuits. Steve

Could someone explain to me why the need to bleed rear brakes before fronts. Since the front and rear circuits are isolated from each other why would it matter? Steve

Try this spoiler on for size. http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/0/05/1961_Ferrari_250_TR_61_Spyder_Fantuzzi_34_left_2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:1961_Ferrari_250_TR_61_Spyder_Fantuzzi_34_left_2.jpg&usg=__THX9AyouE-T6XkyVF2Nv5VQ74ig=&h=645&w=1242&sz=64&hl=en&start=3&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=G39n4t3zIOSAiM:&tbnh=78&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3D1961%2Bferrari%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26client%3Dfirefox-a%26sa%3DX%26rls%3Dorg.mozilla:en-US:official%26tbs%3Disch:1

Did you cap the vents on the float bowls? You might want to undo that. Steve

Did you remove the carbs or any fuel lines? If so you may have disturbed some dirt or whatever that is now holding the needle off the seat inside the float bowl. The removal of emissions equipment isn't the cause of your problem. Steve

My father put over 500000 miles on a 77 dodge van. We put 2 engines in it, one wore out the other got hydro locked after driving in some deep water. He didn't have it for any 50 years though.We replaced the brakes 1 time during that 500K so you can tell the kind of driving he was doing. Steve

I guess I was being a little Indianapolis-centric. Steve

FSM= Factory Service Manual

Typically over advanced timing at idle increases idle HC. Get your timing right before you continue with anything else. Steve

Check your tires for a tread separation. Steve

Indiana, none at all. Steve

Looks a little lean at idle to me. I'd look for vacuum leaks first. If the AF meter needs adjusted I'd suggest letting a pro do it. without a gas analyzer you'll be shooting in the dark. Steve

What was your CO reading? CO is a direct indicator of mixture. Lower Co = leaner mixture. Too low and you will have a lean miss and high HC. Unburned fuel due to the miss. Too high and you'll get high HC. Too much fuel for complete combustion so the left over fuel goes out the pipe. The cat likes a relatively narrow range of mixture to perform correctly. Too lean or rich and it won't light. Steve

I'll second that. Unless carbon fiber can be spot welded. http://pic90.picturetrail.com/VOL2373/13067878/23317799/389114549.jpg