Everything posted by doradox
-
HLS30-OOO13 Has Been Found!
I'm not trying to be unfriendly and I'm not holding my nose in the air. And I didn't fire the first shot by any means. The facts speak for themselves. When it comes to markets I don't know another metric we could use to gauge the importance of one over another. Even on a per capita basis the US Market leads with respect to the 240Z. The US fell in love with the Z. Certainly the size of your country's market is no measure of your own personal worth to the world or to the Z community itself. However, when it comes to the importance of a market with respect to the 240Z lets let the numbers speak for themselves. Steve
-
HLS30-OOO13 Has Been Found!
240z Production by market ( I didn't double check my math but the order of magnitude should be correct) USA 148,115 Canada 11,198 Australia 2358 Great Britain 1929 Total production thru '73 (S30 and S130) 192549 http://www2.zhome.com:81/History/Zproduction.html Nothing personal but... With the USA receiving 75% of the total produced you'll have to excuse us for not thinking that markets that received 1.5% or less of the total as being "just as valid". One could argue the point that the 240Z would not have existed at all if not for Datsun's burning desire make it big in the US market. I can be pretty sure they weren't overly excited at the prospect of selling a whopping 1929 cars over 3 years. That's perspective. Steve
-
question about water lines
Go to Autozone or wherever and ask to let you look at all their molded hoses. Usually you can find a hose for another application that is close enough to work. I recently did this for the hose that runs from the intake to the thermostat housing on my '72. Kind of a bent S shape and I found one that worked perfectly after trimming. Steve
-
HLS30-OOO13 Has Been Found!
That's pretty cool. Steve
-
Any members near Indianapolis Indiana ?
The Club seems to have lost their domain name or have they moved sites? Steve
-
17" rims too big for a Stock 240Z? (pic's inside)
Even when they weigh the same by concentrating the mass near the outer circumference the rotational inertia increases. This will not only slow you down as you noted but can also make steering less "crisp" as your new big heavy gyroscopes don't want to change direction in response to steering inputs. It also increases unsprung weight, if you have chosen a heavy wheel/tire combo, which reduces the ability of your suspension to keep the tires planted on the road. Steve
-
oil: not a debate please.
Use any oil that explicitly states that it meets or exceeds the performance standards specified by the manufacturer of your vehicle. Many new oils no longer meet the older API performance specs, especially the less expensive ones. Steve
-
Cash4Clunkers -the real story..
Probably as written our babies wouldn't get crushed. But the point is maybe some future car nut will lack the cars and parts to pursue his/her dream. First they came... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_they_came... Steve
-
Cash4Clunkers -the real story..
Our Zs were 15 years old or less at one time. I wonder how many fewer would be around now had they enacted similar legislation in the '80's. Steve
-
ignition experts come on in.
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=plug+gap+and+combustion
-
Have you been watching - cheap cars?
You can't argue with the math. If you don't turn the left side of the HP=torque*rpm equation into a value greater than zero you don't move. Period. A force (torque) alone does not do work, you need to actually move. Power, (force*distance)/time, tells you how fast your engine can do work. The more power you have the more work you can do in a given amount of time. So if you want to fast zero to 60 times you need power. Steve
-
Have you been watching - cheap cars?
Motor trend tested the 2.0T and got 1/4 mile times of 15.2, about a second faster than a stock 240Z. That's not too bad. http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/coupes/112_0903_2010_hyundai_genesis_coupe_quick_test/index.html Since HP = torque *rpm you don't move unless rpm>0 regardless of how much torque you have. So all the torque in the world does you no good until you turn it into power. Simply put, HP has the ingredients you need to move things. Steve
-
Lights have gone crazy
Sounds like you may have lost your ground path for the rear lights. Steve
-
Cleaning a filthy engine.
Because it's cheap and it works. There's no requirement for zinc. There is a requirement that the oil meet the performance standards specified by the auto's manufacturer. Typically SD or SE for the Z. As I stated before not all modern oils meet those standards. Delo® 400 Synthetic SAE 5W-40 only meets SH. Many lower cost oils do not meet SD SE that is the performance requirement as stated by Datsun/Nissan. Using an oil that does not meet SD SE and then adding zinc means you are using an oil that may not meet any of the performance requirements specified by Datsun. Engine assembly lubes have always had an EP lube formulation and cams and followers should be installed and broken-in using the manufacturers recommended lube and procedure. Nothing has changed there. Many now require zinc carrying additives. Adding a high lift cam and heavy valve springs has always made cam break-in more difficult and in that case unusual precautions may need to be taken. If the cam maker says use zinc, then use it. My daily driver has 235,000 miles on it and it has flat tappets. 5W-30 Valvoline SYNPower is all it's had for the last 135,00 miles. I recently changed the valve cover gasket and my cams and followers look just fine. I own and old Ford truck and my Z and neither are having any trouble with a quality oil that explicitly states that it meets the standards the manufacturer requires. So as I said before, if you feel that you need to add zinc then at least add it to an oil that meets the SD SE performance requirements. Don't throw out the baby with the bath water. If you've modified your engine then you should use the oil and lubes recommended by the manufacturer of the parts you used. BTW STP has ZDDP (zinc) and it claims to have the most of any brand of oil additive. Is more always better? Is there a problem with using too much? What will it cost you if you find out? Steve
-
Have you been watching - cheap cars?
http://www.hyundaiusa.com/shoppingtools/byo/model.aspx?Vehicle=Genesis%20Coupe&Year=2010 Looks like the 2.0T staring at 22K and the 3.8 starting at 25K although to get an LSD you need to bump up to the highest trim level adding several thousand more $. But you do get traction control on the base cars. Nissan had 155 hp in a 2500 lb coupe at $19000.... my 240SX 17 years ago. That was a pretty hefty price tag back then. Approximately what the 3.8 Track Genesis costs today's dollars. No wonder they didn't sell all that well. Both Nissan and Toyota/Subaru had some plans in the works for a low cost RWD coupe but the current market conditions caused them to be shelved. One can only hope. Steve
-
Have you been watching - cheap cars?
With the 2.0 turbo it lists at about 22K. I think the V6 starts around 30K. Steve
-
Cleaning a filthy engine.
The oil filter has a bypass to prevent blowing out the filter material. However it will no longer filter the oil as you concluded. You should use a gasoline engine oil that explicity states that it passes the API rating recommended in your owners manual. That will give your engine the wear protection required by the manufacturer. Out of the three oils I have in my garage right now both Valvoline SYNpower and Quaker State Peak Performance state " exceeds all preceeding API and ILSAC gasoline categories" Catrol GTX however does not and only meets or exceeds SM, SL, SJ, SH. As an example a 73 240Z required SE or SD rated oil so GTX should not be used. The zinc issue has been debated extensively. If you feel the need for zinc I would recommend using a quality oil that meets the API rating you engine requires and then use an additive such as STP. Using racing oil or diesel engine oil in a quest for zinc means you will have to run an oil that is not recommended by the engine manufacturer for the use the engine was designed for. Lastly, change, change, change. I once had an SBC that had so much sludge that it was literally 1/2 inch thick in places. After many frequent oil changes about 2 years later I tore it down for a rebuild and it was virtually spotless. Steve
-
Battery Brain - tried it?
Might be handy if you are the forgetful type and leave your lights or whatever on. Steve
-
240Z rear hatch body weatherstrip......
How very true. Steve
-
What to do for 280Z spare tire?
One of those cheap little electric air pumps that plug into your cigarette lighter will do the job. As along as you don't have a flat tire and a dead battery at the same time. Steve
-
Any members near Indianapolis Indiana ?
I'd be up for it too. I'm about 45 minutes north outside of Colfax. Steve
-
Negative offset
Another consideration is the effect of non stock offset, and overall tire radius, on the scrub radius. http://www.hrsprings.com/technical/scrub_radius Steve
-
best new headlights for a stock 240Z
Light output is proportional to V^3.4. A small increase in voltage to the lights can make a huge difference in output. Just a 1 volt increase from 13V to 14V will increase light output by almost 30%. An upgraded harness will ensure your lighting dollars give you the greatest value. Steve
-
Issues with keeping the Alternator In?
Does the alternator fit the bracket with no gaps between the ears and the bracket? Are the surfaces that mate flat and parallel? Steve
-
best new headlights for a stock 240Z
Here's a source of good info on lighting that may be of help. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html Steve