doradox

And this.. http://store.datsunspirit.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=69 is what passes for a valve spring compressor? That's just a plain old bar clamp. http://www.mcmaster.com/#5106a76/=vhfgs Steve

If you want a part you can actually use instead of just look at then the 3D printer isn't too useful. Using the output of the printer to create molds so you can cast parts in higher strength materials is about as good as it gets. There are some that print parts in sintered metal that can baked into fairly strong parts but it's still not a substitute for the original material if you are trying to duplicate an existing metal part. They are getting better every day but still a long way from spitting out exact duplicates as far as strength is concerned. Steve

Your father is a wise man. Steve

You could always move to Alaska. A turbo only kind of duplicates that, as it compresses the air and heats it while doing so. A supercharger would do the same thing. The end result is more air in the engine (which your fuel injection mixes more fuel with) which means more power. The cool dense air is a little free horsepower by giving you a little more air. People have tried some different ways to cool the intake air but they are pretty impractical like a big ice chest full of dry ice that the intake pipe (or intercooler) runs through. Just enjoy it while it lasts. My car runs great when it's about 10F out. Steve

Here's a long shot idea. Weak valve springs. Valves float at 4000 rpm. Datsun-Parts, LLC? Maybe not so long. Steve

Cold air is more dense so you get more air/fuel mixture. Kinda like a turbo, but cooler.:laugh: Steve

Not a fuel pump at all is correct, especially if you read this... Emphasis mine.He also says he's tried two sets of carbs with no effect. Anyway, any mechanic worth his salt would have introduced additional fuel with the engine running at 4000 rpm to see if it would rev out. A simple squirt of carb cleaner while holding your foot to the floor would immediately tell you whether or not it wasn't getting enough fuel to rev past 4000 rpm. Steve.

So if you or someone else has properly tested and changed all those things then you have eliminated fuel and ignition. Now you have eliminated the engine mechanical and any cam timing issue. And now exhaust. Any timing problem ( or throttle linkage problem) serious enough to keep you from revving past 4K would certainly effect your performance below 4K. Centrifugal advance should be all in well before 4K. So did you do this.. Because that pretty much covers the secondary ignition system. Did you check cap and rotor? Air cleaners collapsing and choking the carbs? You've eliminated everything that could be causing your problem so you need to start over and recheck all of it. Either that or a part you swapped out to do a check was bad in the same way as the original part. Steve

Have you checked the exhaust for restrictions? Steve

Changed the oil lately? Steve

I will. I'm just waiting for the warm weather as my driver, my "good" 240, and my tractor occupy the best workshop space for now. Steve

Tabco, I'm not lucky enough have an NOS find like that. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32966 Steve

Probably, but I'm not doing anything with any of it for a couple months. Steve

Naw, the cap looks pretty bad too. Steve

Resistance will be normal. In the stock bushing the inner and outer sleeves are bonded to the rubber bushing. When the bolt is tightened the inner sleeve becomes stationary with respect to the cross member and the outer sleeve is a tight press fit into the control arm. That's why you do the final tightening with the suspension loaded. The bushing flexes to give the motion the control arm needs. It can't flex more than a few degrees so it needs to be in the normal ride height position when it is finally tightened into place. Steve

Agreed. Steve

I don't define the "right tool" as the one the Snap-on man tells I need. If it does the jobs quickly and easily then it's the right tool. There are a lot of "right tools" that really don't work all that well. The tools you use work fine but aren't the only "right tools" for the job. Steve

If you aren't reusing the tie rod end then a pickle fork is great. Not all tie rod ends have replaceable boots so a pickle fork can cause unnecessary damage to a boot in cases where the end is being removed for the servicing of some other component. Or you just replace the damaged end and add it to the cost of the job. I Can't say I ever caused any damage using the hammer method. Steve

The hammer method works well. The key is to use a large hammer and hit the steering arm HARD. I usually leave the nut on the tie rod end but loosen it a few turns. That way if you miss the steering arm you won't bugger the threads on the tie rod end. You should be swinging the hammer roughly parallel to the floor like Mr. Camouflage diagrammed. I've done this literally hundreds of times and it has always worked. Steve

I'm with you on that one! I think I was looking at Cl and Clf and mixed them. I've attached an .xls from data found on http://www.zcarpartsindex.com/index.php?title=Aerodynamics I was looking at it the opposite way. Positive was the amount of lift. Lower numbers = less lift, negative is actually downforce. Look at test #2 which is stock baseline. There is 312 lbs of lift on the front and 55 on the back. That would be one of the best if positive = downforce. Regardless, the airdam and BRE spoiler are close enough that one really need not feel he has to give up any performance to get that classic Spook styling. My first '73 way back when had a BRE style chin spoiler and an IMSA 3 piece and has always been a favorite. Steve Z_aero.xls

After looking at the HybridZ windtunnel tests again it looks like a more apples to apple comparison would be test 13 compared to test 16. That compares both the BRE chin spoiler and the MSA airdam without any grill blocking that was done for both in later tests and made a big difference. BRE Spook #13 CLF = .279 lbs of lift = 233 lbs of drag = 307 MSA A/D #16 CLF = .287 lbs of lift = 195 lbs of drag = 300 Steve

Sounds flooded. Hold your foot to the floor and crank 'till she starts. Let off once she starts running.:cheeky: Steve

Yes. I see. I didn't realize that they were adding components each time. Lots of variables especially considering the different way an airdam and chin spoiler route air over/around the car. I have a question though about the Cl. It's defined on the site as.. C LF front lift neg # = lift, pos# = down force on front end C LR rear lift neg # = lift, pos # = down force on rear end which seems backwards to me since the BRE spoiler had the lowest Cl and the lowest lift. By definition Cl is Lift/(roughly the velocity and density of the fluid, and area of the wing) so a higher Cl would be higher lift/less downforce. Am I missing something? Steve

That spring keeps the hose from kinking/collapsing. I'm not sure but I would think the correct molded lower hose wouldn't need a spring. Steve

IIRC the MSA airdam outperformed the BRE style chin spoiler in the HybridZ windtunnel tests with much reduced drag. However front end downforce within about 5 lbs or so, advantage to the BRE spoiler. I'm not sure if that was an apples to apples comparison though. Steve