doradox

It used to be almost hidden from view by a bunch of rusting antique tractors. There was a big auction a couple years ago and now it sits alone. I know of another, a 280Z, that's been in the weeds for probably close to that long near Elizaville. Steve

You have an ignition problem. Probably a bad plug/coil wire. Maybe coil. Could also be a bad points/condenser( does the 260 have points?). The hotter wires get the more likely they will arc to ground. The choke richens the fuel mixture which lowers the voltage required to fire the plug so the arcing stops. Anything in the the high voltage side of the ignition system could be suspect. The condenser, if you have one, will be sensitive to heat and cause problems. I am assuming you have released the choke prior to being fully warmed and the engine runs fine until fully warmed then needs the choke again. Otherwise it's probably what Paul said. Steve

It's double the 1.6. If you spin just 1 tire you should double the driveshaft turns to get the ratio. Steve

I used my first 73 240Z to go skiing in for several years and it does pretty well in the snow for a rear drive car. That 50/50 weight distribution helps a lot. A set of winter tires and it would be fine. That said, if you drive where there is a lot of salt on the roads you'll kill a 240 in no time unless it has been seriously prepped for those conditions. Even then it's just a matter of time before it rots. Steve

Bearing end play is given as 0 to .0057 in and bearing preload as 3.9 in*lbs or less. If you have more than 0 end play you will have no preload as there must be play in the bearings to have any end play. At 0 end play you must have no more than 3.9 in*lbs of preload. Since you can't measure if you have less than 0 end play you use the bearing preload to make sure have not loaded the bearings too much. Steve

That 200 lb*ft of torque is a key part of the strength and fatigue life of the rear hub assembly. Backing off the nut to get the correct end play is not really a good idea. Steve

I've driven by this one literally more than a thousand times and finally stopped and took a picture. It's been there for at least the 10 years I've been driving by. Steve

You got a CCW permit? I think you may be getting a visit from the BATF. :laugh:

I typically just open the bleeder and let the system gravity bleed. As long as there is some fluid in the line to begin with it will usually start bleeding just fine. I have found that all the pumping can introduce small air bubbles in the fluid. I just let it run for a while and keep the master topped up. If you want a system that's hard to bleed try a 240SX. There's a parallel loop in the system below the slave that is a pain to get bled. Steve Steve

Let's start here. You have a clutch pedal attached , via a clevis, to the clutch master cylinder rod and then the clutch master cylinder. The rod screws in and out of the clevis to provide the pedal adjustment. There should be a nut used to lock the clevis and rod to hold the adjustment. From there a steel line down to a rubber hose attached to the slave cylinder. A rod (slave cylinder rod) coming out of the slave cylinder that pushes on the clutch release fork. I'm just trying to make sure we all are using the same terms for all the parts. Adjust the rod and clevis to make the rod longer until the pedal is up as high as the pedal stop will let it go. You will be able to tell because it will become harder to turn the rod as the play is taken out of the pedal,rod,master cylinder system. Stop when all the play is taken out. Go back the other way a little so rod and clevis JUST feel loose. There's a spec for how loose this should be but let's ignore that for now. Fill the clutch master cylinder and have someone push down ONCE and HOLD the pedal down. While the pedal is down open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder. Wait a second and then close it. Then have the other person release the pedal slowly like if you were driving the car. Repeat this procedure until no more air comes out when you open the bleeder. Check the fluid often to make sure you don't run the MC dry or you will have to start all over. When you are bleeding you should get a pretty good squirt when you open the bleeder once most of the air is out. Once the air is gone the rod coming out of the slave cylinder should move about an inch give or take. If you do those things and report back we should be able to tell you what is wrong. Steve

When you get the new master check that the rod is the same as your old one. I recently bought a new one and the rod was about a 3/4 inch too short so I had to to use the old rod. Steve

Either you still have air in the system, your clutch master cylinder is bad, or the clutch pedal to master cylinder linkage is out of adjustment or missing. Usually if the slave won't move it's because there is no pressure generated by the master or there's too much air. Steve

It's funny that people can be happy with the performance of their cars then get all sad when it doesn't dyno out at what they thought. Dynos are for tuning not for "racing". Steve

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower scroll down to SAE horsepower. See net and gross. Probably why the 260 was rated with less HP than the 240 and why the 75 280 had about the same rating as the 240. Where the extra 20 HP that the 76 has came from I don't know. I'll bet someone here does though. Steve

9 mm isn't a standard size. 8mm -1.25 is very close to the same as a 5/16-18 and a 10mm is a little bigger than a 3/8(9.53 mm). Steve

Stock or turbo pump? Steve

I was an Arizona boy for 30 years. Mention a swamp cooler out here and you get blank stares. I used to do the Imperial Sand Dunes thing many years ago and I've seen a few iced up Weber's on a buggy or two. Certainly not dangerous but it was odd to see it happen. Under the hood of a street car is probably not a likely place for it to happen though like you said. Steve

The main reason for manifold heat is to keep the vaporized fuel from condensing on the carb and intake walls. It will condense out of the air just like water does on a cold glass on a hot summer day. This will lean the mixture and cause cold running problems. The change of the fuel from liquid to vapor draws heat out of the air and intake, and will cool a manifold well below freezing on a cool day. You folks that live in the southwest know what an evaporative cooler is, the process is exactly the same in your carb and intake manifold. Ever seen an intake manifold with frost on it or even IN it? Look up carburetor icing. It's unlikely that your intake charge would be warmer than your coolant so since heat flows from hot to cold you'll never cool the air/fuel mixture. Well, except if you've got a big turbo compressing and heating the intake charge. Steve

The only wheels I know of that have that extra plug are the ones used for inflatable spare tires. But four on one car? How about a picture? Steve

A picture of the shifter would help. Which end of your fix is the shift knob end?

That's an option too. McMaster-Carr has a variety of inserts for that very method. mcmaster.com and search for thread insert. Rivet nuts (page 3213) can be used for the same purpose too. You still may need to open up the hole in the knob a little depending on how worn yours is.

That increases the radiant heat transfer but slows the convection heat transfer rate. Since it's primarily the convection rate (the majority of the fin's surface area faces other fins so they emit and absorb to and from each other) that's more important. On the tanks it would be a plus as they are not in the primary airflow and their surfaces don't face each other. That's splitting hairs in reality though. Steve

If it's plastic loctite might not be compatible and could soften the plastic. You could fill it with JB weld and redrill the JB and tap to the original size. Be careful when drilling, the bit can sometimes really get hold of the plastic and instead of nice thin shavings it can dig in and split the workpiece (your knob). Steve

Mine is all mine, as long as I am using some (most) of the space for projects she wants done. So I guess I'm renting it from her in a sense. Steve

You could use a heli-coil. It's a thread insert for repairing stripped threads. You drill out the old threads, tap the hole for the heli-coil, install the insert. Autozone or most other auto parts stores have kits. I think you'll need an 8M 1.25. Use some loctite on the insert so it doesn't come out. Steve