doradox

Seems clear to me. Tired, leaking, running on 5, hard to start. No mention of fresh bottom end that I can see. Steve

That's an interesting idea. That modified mount may want to walk side to side on the cross member as it is no longer solidly bolted to it. Possibly increasing the size of the hole in the cross member and using a poly bushing with a shoulder that would fit in the hole could eliminate that. Something like the shock absorber bushing I circled. At the very least it will keep the bolt from contacting steel. Steve

A spoiler could both cause or stop a leak from allowing fumes into the cabin. (notice that I am not talking about a well sealed Z) A spoiler spoils lift. It does so by changing the air pressure distribution on the outside of the car. There is also to some extent a conservation of momentum effect when you change the direction of airflow but I'll not go into that. So generally speaking adding a spoiler means increasing pressure on the top of the car and decreasing it on the bottom. So depending on where the leak is it could begin letting in fumes if it were in an area that experienced a pressure increase or stop leaking in an area that experienced a pressure decrease. Since there are so many places that can leak there is no one magic bullet that "solves" the fume problem. That's why you see so many different solutions and why one persons solution may not work for another. Unless, of course, that solution is to seal the car properly. Steve

There is a pressure differential between the motor can and the point the vent enters the box, if properly designed. This causes air to flow and cool the motor. Steve

HID or halogen? Steve

I didn't. I simply asked you a question as your previous post made no mention of misrepresentation. Absolutely. Again, I agree. I am not required to do so but depending on who I was buying from I might. It's the sellers FULL responsibility to accurately represent the item for sale regardless of whether or not that item is actually worth more or less than a true representation. They have possession of the item and are not being forced to offer it for sale so they have every opportunity to properly identify the item. A fair transaction relies on both parties having the opportunity to do their part. If the seller is too lazy to do what he needs to do to properly identify his property and prices it too low that's not the buyers problem. If the buyer hasn't done his homework and finds that he could have purchased a like item for less that's not the sellers problem. If the item is accurately represented and the price agreed upon by both parties then the transaction is "fair" regardless of the "market" value of the item sold. This is a possibility. Steve

Are you saying that if I misrepresent something to you and you purchase it but it turns out it really isn't what I told you it was then it's your tough luck? Steve

Being an R200 there's a good chance that it is. I was just wondering because the auto trans 240s came with a 3.54 and if you had a 3.36 it would be a little less "spirited" off the line. It's cool that you're doing the swap to allow you wife to enjoy driving a Z. Steve

Does the rear end have a 3.54 or better gear already? Steve

Be careful when using a stainless bolt and nut combo. Galling and cold welding can sometimes occur very easily without the use of an anti-seize that is applicable for stainless. The Permatex copper, or nickle, anti-seize is specifically designed for stainless. The more common aluminum anti-seize is not. http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/09128.pdf Also stainless fasteners can cause galvanic corrosion when contacting aluminum parts. http://www.marfas.com/corrosion.shtml http://www.eckcoating.com/product.html There is probably very little if anything to be concerned about in your application, but going in with a little info can help you make choices that ensure you are not surprised in the future. Steve

a little grease or oil will cause a chatter. A lot will cause a slip. You have to try really hard to get a lot on. It's very unlikely that you have grease or oil on the clutch. If you don't accelerate hard enough to cause the slip the clutch can last a long time. So if it slips, back off. Light throttle and higher rpm are your best bet to keep slipping to a minimum. For a given acceleration level you need a given amount of HP. HP = torque * rpm (divided by 5252 if torque is in lb*ft). So for a given HP more rpm means less torque is required. I've limped a clutch or two along for quite a while using that driving technique. Steve

And it was??? Steve

This.. http://www.xenonz31.com/s130/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Is handy if you don't already have one. Steve

Since you rotated the distributor shaft 180 and then realigned all the wires 180 there is no change from a timing standpoint. Steve

Walter, Running at cruising speed on a level road the vacuum advance should be all in, or close to it. Coming to a grade the vacuum advance retards, or advances less if you prefer, the timing so the engine doesn't death rattle all the way up the hill. Same thing for when you stand on it. The vacuum advance increases the efficiency of your engine under low load conditions such as cruising by allowing maximum spark advance to be used. At any given RPM More throttle = less vacuum. Less vacuum = less advance. Therefore: more throttle = less advance So going up your hypothetical upgrade to maintain the same RPM, and therefore speed, you need a little more throttle so.... Racers don't use vacuum advance because they don't cruise, it doesn't add power, and it's one more thing to destabilize the timing. Steve

I just removed the roof skin on an early 72 and it was fully welded at the joints between the roof and quarter. Steve

The oil pump is driven by the gear on the crank. Thicker oil is harder to pump so that gear is under a different load than with thinner oil. Also the timing chain tensioner works off of oil pressure. When all the vibrations in the crank, cam, timing chain, etc. line up just right a small change like that can cause odd things to happen. However, if the balancer is tight and your timing chain is right like you say then it's a moot point. Steve

When I lived in Tucson (30 years) I always ran 10W-30 in my daily driver Zs. Probably close to a couple hundred thousand miles between my 2 73s. Steve

Think about how the oil pump is driven and that might lead to to a clue as why different weight oil could cause a noise. Thicker oil is harder to pump. Check that the harmonic balancer is tight. Steve

I did remember. I was actually scared to be under the thing as it was so rusted there was no good place to put jack stands. I was afraid it would break in half if I removed any cross members. Steve

What corn? Steve

I spent the day stripping my parts car and thought it might be easier to get the suspension and steering off if it were upside down. Steve

Again, check for fuel in your oil. Does the oil smell like gas? If the carbs are right you shouldn't be running too well with the mixture screw all the way in. "Head redone, headers etc. " What was the "etc" that you did as well as the head and headers? Steve

Get your carbs dialed in first. Sounds like you are way too rich. Check to make sure the fuel pump isn't leaking fuel into the engine as well. Gas diluted oil is a bad thing. You are getting too much fuel from somewhere. Steve

http://www.snopes.com/autos/grace/sugar.asp