doradox

I don't think I'd recommend an aftermarket ignition. The stock system is very reliable and for a stock or near stock engine is more than adequate. Some others here have "upgraded" and maybe someone could recommend a system for you. I've seen coils cause some funky traces and without seeing the secondary it's the cheapest/safest bet. Probably a good idea to check all you connections to the scope and ignition/grounds first like you mentioned earlier. Steve Steve

High load would be more apt to cause a miss all other things being equal. Are you able to get a trace of the secondary circuit? Also what is the voltage scale? The induced voltage part of the trace is odd in that it goes so negative before settling into the burn time. Steve

Your trace is abnormal. It should look a lot like the ones in the FSM. These links may be helpful. http://www.picoauto.com/automotivetopics/primary.html http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/052005_04.pdf It's been many years since I was scoping engines regularly so it's a little fuzzy but I'd try a coil first. Steve

I run XP and I don't remember where I got FAST from. Sorry.

It doesn't do that on mine. Steve

Sounds like a good choice. Sometimes people lose sight of overall performance, or refinement, when choosing tires / wheels and suspension. A great combo will enhance the total driving experience. Of course many focus on one aspect of performance because it is their preference. Those Bridgestones look like a good choice for my driver. I had to put my iPikes on a little early this season as I developed a tread separation in my all seasons. I didn't want to buy new tires and have them sit in the barn over what may turn out to be a long winter. I'll check them out in the spring. Steve

My 40DCOEs were pretty well behaved. A little finicky below 2000 RPM ,couldn't snap the throttle wide open without a slight hesitation ,but perfectly driveable in Tucson weather. Idled well, got good mileage, stayed in tune. Keep in mind there is no choke but on a cold start a couple pumps of the throttle to get started and a minute or two warm up and all was good. Steve

Lots of good advice but annealing and work hardening are pretty much the opposite of each other. Annealing softens, work hardening, well, hardens. And you don't work harden by heating then cooling. That would be heat treating. You work harden by exceeding the yield strength of the material. Steve

Might be a slight film of rust on the drum. If so it should wear off after a few stops and stop making the noise. Steve

I'd agree with the Japanese car part but I'd probably need "handful" defined before totally buying in. Anyway, I get you drift. I once saw 33 MPG in my first '73 on a trip from Tucson to Vegas. It was in the 55 mph days though. Steve

Adjusted for inflation $3500 USD in 1970 is about $20,000 today. Being worth 4 times as much ($14,000) as new isn't much to brag about. $3500 invested for 39 years with conservative 5% rate of return would be $70,000. Consider that it costs money to maintain a car for 39 years you'd probably need to get north of $100,000 to make the car pay better than the $3500 invested at 5%. Of course you can't drive the money and a dollar bill don't look nearly as good as a Z. The dollar bill is just so..rectangular. As for #13 , who knows. Certainly not me. Steve

Even that one had the optional 275 HP 327 (base 327 was 210 HP) and is the earliest known VIN with a couple interior options. Base 6 cylinder models had the 230 CID 6. A 250 CID 6 was an option believe it or not. Steve

The reason the value of our cars does not rise like say, a hemi 'Cuda, is that nobody wants one. Lots of people think the Z is cool and "knows someone who had one of those" but they didn't want one back in the day and neither did very many other people in relation to all the muscle car offerings from the Big 3. Everybody wanted a Roadrunner, Mustang, 454 Chevelle SS or the dozens of other cars with dozens of different engines, transmissions, trim packages to chose from. The '67 Camaro alone sold over 220,000 units and had 90 option items. http://www.cartechbooks.com/cartech/contentfiles/5836.pdf You'll see a car go through auction with a particularly rare option that came on , say, 250 of the tens of thousands of the different variations of that one car. With the Z what are the desirable option packages? There really aren't any for the most part. The Z is boring in that respect. If we (the US) had gotten the twin cam 2 liter engine in a few Zs, or a few equipped with the 5 speed then you might see those special cars command a premium and increase the interest of the base models. But alas we didn't. So don't compare the Z prices with some rare optioned car, compare the price that a more common base model commands. So today those folks have made some money and want to relive their younger days or fulfill a dream they weren't able to when the muscle car ruled the street. Consequently we see ridiculous prices being paid for rare examples of American Iron. Thinking that the Z should command similar prices is just not reality.

Fusible link burned on the way home from work one day. Scavenged a little speaker wire, hot wired the coil, jumped the starter solenoid and drove the rest of the way home. Fortunately it was still light out. Steve

Yes! You hit the nail on the head. Steve

I've already removed it. :disappoin Maybe someone with some photoshop skills could change the B to a Z in the attached pic and replace the Bee graphic with an S30 caricature. Steve

This thread piqued my curiosity so I did a quick and dirty painters tape Super Bee stripe. I kinda like it. I think you could make it work. Getting the angle, width, and placement right will make or break it I think. I was shooting for the same angle as the trailing edge of the door. Maybe a Z logo instead of Super Bee, but that might be too much. Steve

WOW, that's some serious workaholism. You do what you need to to make the business successful. I owned a shop for 12 years in Tucson so I know the routine. I'm still ASE master auto tech certified although I've been out of the biz for 11 years. Steve

41 cars a day if you include weekends. Did you mean 1500? Steve

It sounds like you are happy with the results. FYI if you want to fine tune the sound the length, diameter, shape of the exhaust tip can make big differences in the sound. On my first '73 I put a turbo muffler and 2.5 inch pipe on it and had a short 2.5 inch diameter tip. Resonated like crazy and was way too loud inside. Added 2 inches to the tip and all that went away. Steve

Headers and high flow exhaust first. All other engine mods will work to their fullest if the exhaust is tuned (headers) and free flowing. Steve

The 'Camero" thing is funny in that my son has a 2000 Camaro that has been and will be in my driveway for quite some time. Ironic in that respect too. So about those three engines? Not a particularly effective fact in the "not designed for the US" argument. Or do you not agree? And why? If I opine, as an engineer, I might give away my US or not US bias. :laugh: I will say this. A great car is a great car regardless of who it was designed for. Steve

Just asking some questions. I've had the opportunity to work with our marketing dept on the products I have developed. Sometimes the message is designed to please more than one audience. Steve

Are you using the stock master cylinder? Toyota calipers need more fluid volume and the stock master cylinder might not push enough. Steve

If you have been paying attention, and I am surprised you missed this small detail as they seem so important to you, you'll remember I haven't made any "designed for the US" claims. And once again you wave your hands and change the subject in "answer" to my question. Did I not misspell anything this time? Steve