doradox

WOW! OMGWTFBBQ I considered the "problem" to be that the eventual buyer of the fake car would be duped and could be out thousands. The solution was to destroy the plate (wrong one I guess) for 20 bucks. I'm not interested in trying to "punish" the seller of the VIN package because the reality is I couldn't even if I tried. ( your examples seem to miss that point) The only way to protect the future buyer is to make a deal with the devil. And why would I tell him I destroyed the plate? That's kind of a, I'll call it odd, assumption on your part. If you had no other the choices between paying protection money or having your family killed would you not "reward" the thugs. If you had other choices then maybe you wouldn't, but Sean is way out of our reach as would be the thugs in my hypothetical situation. So would you stand up and watch your family die? Steve

I guess I'll have to eat my words on that one. Sorry, I thought the plate he's now selling was part of the "set". Steve

You have no idea where I stand. If you are so worried this will fall into the wrong hands then spend the 20 bucks to BIN and destroy the darn thing. Actions speak louder than words and if this is a real problem then don't just talk about it, solve it. Steve

So this guy tries to sell VIN and title and puts it out there for the world to see. And you all are worried that someone will use this very well documented event to “resurrect” a high number car as a low number car? It’s already documented that any car with this VIN is a fake. So what’s the real problem? Jail time for the seller of that low VIN beauty? Steve

Try bleeding it. Sometimes air can get into the system even though nothing is leaking out. If you have to drive it you can put the car in 1st or reverse and then start the car. If you have to make a lot of stops you can do this each time. Shifting at as low an rpm as possible will reduce the chance for damage. You can actually shift without the clutch but if you don't already know how to do it now is not the time to learn. Steve

Good to hear everyone’s OK. Sorry about the car. Sounds like you have a lot of work to do to get her straightened out. Good luck. Steve

I've got 7 acres but getting them to Indiana might cost a bit. Steve

Thanks, I was concerned that I'd have to add a lot of weight to the car but it sounds like my concerns were unfounded. Steve

Forgot my units. Steve

I believe he's going to make his from waste fry oil. No taxes collected there.

Sounds like a really cool and unique kind of project. Be careful with the tax man though. I've seen a couple articles about people getting hassled 'cause they weren't paying road taxes. What he doesn't know won't hurt him though. Steve

There's a really small town near where I live in Indiana and for the longest time there was a 240Z parked next to the garage of one of the houses. It was in absolutely horrible shape. I had thought about seeing if I could buy it was really too far gone. Serious rust, glass all busted out, interior completely rotted. I saw it being hauled off on the back of a flatbed one day. The really strange thing was...it was a right hand drive car. I wish I had taken a picture. Steve

Has anyone here taken their Z to a drag strip? I know the classic Z isn't really at home there but I'm curious about other's ETs. I haven't taken my current car but my last car, a early '73 240Z, would do 16.0X in the 1/4 at SIR in Tucson which is just over 3000 ft elevation. I took it one time and try as I might I couldn't break into the 15s. It was basically stock, 6-2-1 header 2.5" pipe through a glasspack resonator and a turbo muffler, electric fan, round top SU carbs. Anybody else tried it just for grins? Steve

I am considering doing this to my car too. How much weight does it add? Steve

I think I've already spent enough time looking for the truth that if I valued my time at minimum wage I could buy enough ZDDP to last about 10 years. It has been interesting though. Steve

You are correct that 1000 ppm is .001% As far as information about ZDDP I think those who sell it might be a little more inclined to cast FUD, fear, uncertainty, and doubt, with the hope you buy their product. I've had trouble finding facts from neutral sources. If there is such a thing. But one thing that I've seen explicitly stated is that oil X exceeds all previous API standards. A particular standard, such as API SF, strictly defines the test procedure and the acceptable results. It doesn't change with changing technology. Why would it? It still applies to the cars built with the technology of the time the standard was in effect. The newer standards use updated procedures in keeping with the current standard of technology. Does anyone use lead additive in their gas? I remember the FUD about that BS when we made the switch to all unleaded gas. It was all over the place. The end of every old car on the road. My first 240Z, bought with about 60,000 miles on it, drank only unleaded for almost 100,000 more miles before I sold it. Never had a lick of trouble with the engine. Steve

Here’s a question. If an oil claims to exceed API services SM/SL, CF, ILSAC GF-4, ACEA A1/A5 services AND ALL preceding API and ILSAC gasoline categories then is it acceptable? Is it performance standards we’re worried about or is it the amount of some ingredient that may or may not be being used in said oil? Steve

Not even close. It's running, steering, stopping, and smelling pretty good now but the body needs LOTS of work. Steve

I understand that some of us have cars that are our "baby" and value an all original low mileage engine and such. I can see their passion and concern. I'm not one of those but am glad there are others who are. I agree that that it can't really hurt. I can only hope I'm not wrong. But after all this discussion next time I walk past the oils and additives at AutoZone I'll be tempted to grab some secret sauce. What the heck. Steve

Not if you want to change the gasket which would be VERY highly recommended. Steve

One guy lunches a cam in 1200 miles and a lot of others who have "heard" about problems. People have been wiping cams since the very first cam was made. I've put over 100,000 miles on my 240SX in the last 4 years since the "phase out" of ZDDP and It sounds like I run it like you run your Z. with 225,000 total and still going strong I'm not worried. My Z will never see more than a few thousand a year. Cam makers aren't going to open themselves up to any libility so they tell you to use an additive. It doesn't cost them a dime to do so. CYA. Didn't use the additive, sorry, can't warranty that. It's a great out. Probably saves them even in cases where their product was at fault. If it makes you sleep better at night then fine. I'm a little superstitious about some of the things I do car maintenance wise too. Steve

Here's a link busting the ZDDP myth. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1049812 Some interesting counterpoints too. Steve

I use a good quality "regular" oil in my cars. I have owned several cars that have seen well over 200,000 miles and still ran well. My current car has 225,000 mile and runs just fine. I chalk this up to changing the oil on a regular basis (3000 miles), keeping filters clean, not overheating or running low on oil, using the choke sparingly on those cars that did/do have one, not sitting and "warming up" the engine but driving moderately within a few seconds of startup which warms the engine more quickly, and not stomping the pedal until the engine is fully warmed up. I drive my cars in a spirited manner with regular full throttle blasts. Personally I think we're splitting hairs here when it comes to oil selection as I believe there are many other factors more important to engine life than what oil is used. But since I haven't done any side by side long term testing this is all just anecdotal. In other words, I can't say " I'm sure if I hadn't used (insert whatever special oil, product, or procedure) that my car wouldn't have lasted as long". Steve

Poindexter, Thank you for bringing this up. Racing products are for racing. They are designed for racing not street use. They aren't "better" because they are for racing. They are designed to meet specific racing requirements and to be better for racing engines as the article points out. Steve

I think the link has timed out. It now does the same thing for me. I just typed "rota" without the quotes into the search box. Steve