spoolin4life

I may just order them just in case, cause as you know international shipping is currently horrible with Covid; especially since these little parts all seem to come from the UK.

I've actually read lots of the info in that book but it makes suggestions for tuned l series engines so it's tricky to know the right info on a stock l28. Lol Would you get leaner idle jet holders too?

I'm almost positive the choke is off. But anytime I even touch the gas it goes right to 8-9 afr - doesn't matter how much gas i give it. (Full or partial) Im using a 7850.1 idle holder. What would you suggest as idle jets? I've spoke to some people and they've said 32 chokes are a nice low end/high end balance. Again I'm a novice to this stuff so trying to learn

I checked again today and they were much darker. It's an innovate mtx-l. Also the oil stank of fuel so that's scary. Don't wanna wash my cylinders. Could it be the floats?

They look a little darker than the regular brownish colour. I'm kinda stumped unless my wideband is reading off. Would you check fuel pressure next or look to the float level? I haven't touched the float needle valve yet.

I recently jetted my triple dhla 40s for a standard N42 L28 and the car felt like it was running great. Basically no hesitations and clean acceleration throughout the the rev range. Carbs are all in sync more less and very responsive. I wanted to do some fine tuning and put on a wideband o2 sensor. The car according to my gauge is running absolutely rich as it gets. I can set it to idle around 14-15afr but as soon as I touch the gas it goes right to 7-9 afr and cruises at 9. The jets/chokes I know are around the proper size. 32 mm chokes, 130 mains, 35 pumps, 7772.5 emulsion. 50 idles, 195 air correctors. What would possibly be the cause of it running super rich?? I'm still very new to this so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

Thanks Mark! Happy to hear some positive feedback beyond the other posts I've read. Gotta wait for parts but I will update when all is in and running.

I got it looked at and it there doesn't seem to be any cylinder wash. But I didn't even notice the misfiring as a result of the e-tube problem nor did I check for spark. Seems my distributor or ignition coil is done. I'm going to replace both as the car is only running on 4 cylinders. Do you think 70 miles of driving on 4 cylinders would've done any harm? the car still pulls well over 3000rpm. I'm just afraid I've done some internal damage now. My builder says the motor will be fine as long as I don't drive it for a long time. I just hate reading posts online. All the posts I've read scare the hell out of me. Thanks for the input though.

Hey folks, So I've just had a fresh rebuilt motor (L28) and and did a carb rebuild with a friend. I did the sequence of breaking in the motor and have done a couple oil changes after the initial break in and driving 20kms or so. When him and I were putting the carbs back together before starting the engine for the first time (DHLA 40's) he forgot to put the emulsion tube in the 3rd carb as I had 2 other spares I wasn't watching at this point. I had done a total of 40 miles of stop and go driving thus far without the e-tube. I just put the emulsion tube back in and did an oil change after thoroughly letting the oil drain from the car. When driving the car hesitated through 2000-3000 rpms but pulled fine after that and felt like my old L28. When I changed the oil each time it was a little darker than normal but never smelled of gas really. I've changed plugs a couple times also as my number 1,2, 5 and 6 were dark. Not sure if I should put a couple drops of motor oil in the spark holes to be safe. What's the chances I've washed the cylinders and done irreparable damage? Would love some feedback cause I'm stressing a lot.

I have a 73 240z. The car has a L28 with the 240 head. I'm not very familiar with these motors quite yet so looking for some advice. I recently did a compression test and only my number 2 cylinder is low the rest are 150 and above. The car has dellorto triple side drafts as well. One major symptom is the car isn't sucking fuel (more less spitting it from) into the cylinder at all and also it's making slight valve ticking noise. In addition the car misfires in the low rpms. Just curious at to what you guys think the problem may be? I'm thinking it's a valve problem not a piston ring issue. Anyone have a similar experience and can lend some insight? Any advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks.

Theres a red 240z about a minute in. Just wondering if anybody knows whose car this is. I wouldn't be suprised if it were one of MSA's own cars Wondering if anyone could shed some light as to what the mods are. Sounds really sexy.

So when I bought the car it ran awesome. Rev'd up super fast, never bogged. That was last summer. Now I know you're all gonna $^!# on me . But I had to run the car open carbs without air filters (and the car runs triple dellortos) when I first bought it since the gentlemen that sold it to me only had air horns and no filters for it. The car sounds sexy but I know how bad this is. I did an oil change as soon as I got home and bought filters for it. I had to drive the car relatively a 200kms from where I got it back to home before I did all that :S Now in regards to timing. I don't know if the carbs are clogged, but the car bogs down low now and but hits hard up top in the rpms. It still starts fine non the less. Soo, im hoping there was no severe damage to car from the no filter issue. Im not sure what some good recipes are for ignition timing; if the timing may just be off now. I was hoping some light could be shed upon the matter. Thanks, Andrew.

So ive been researching these guys for a while..and I cant turn up anything in North America ..their products (more less the exhaust components) make me drool..I found this vid and it has led me on a spree to find out more info...anybody have any leads? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mo0WeyGFSDA http://s-garage.hp.infoseek.co.jp/haiki1.htm O! and this vid too...the Z in this vid sounds sexy