MEZZZ

I looked into the injector cleaning before posting this and read a few posts on it as well in the past. From what I can tell, it is a great way to go. WHile I am not real happy with the wires, I do like the fact that he has bundled everything needed to change them out. He does have 100% feedback on almost 1000 transactions to consider also. I just got an email yesterday for 10% off an Ebay purchase, I might bite the bullet and give it a shot.

I would like to hear opinions on this injector set. I was thinking of replacing my injectors and wires and ran across this set searching Ebay. I have seen the wires listed seperately, I like the wires that MSA sells better. I am wondering if this might be a good way to go though. I've read posts in the past about sending injectors out to be cleaned. All comments are appreciated. Here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSAN-DATSUN-280Z-280ZX-BOSCH-FUEL-INJECTORS_W0QQitemZ190231310169QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item190231310169&

As always, thank you Stephen. I was reading the FSM a few minutes ago but havent gotten to this part yet. So, if the fuel pump runs when I am cranking, i.e. the ignition is on the run position, then I should be able to check my fuel pressure with a gauge? As I stated before, the pump runs with a lead from the battery and pumps quite a bit of fuel from the line past the new filter. So moving forward, I will have check the pressure from there. It is strange that the car was running fine, started basically with the flip of the key and now it just cranks. I have retraced my steps and I cannot see anything unplugged, corroded, etc. It starts for a second with starter fluid so I have to assume it is a fuel related problem at this point, or possibly no power to the injectors? Thanks again.

Well, I looked at the wires running from the battery cables and all looks to be intact, tight/clean connection. I havent yet pulled the line from the gas tank but I did pull it from the fuel filter out of curiousity. It made a hissing sound as I pulled it, eveidence I suppose of some pressure and gas leaked from the metal tubes that run to the fuel rail. Just for the heck of it, I hot wired the fuel pump again and gas shot from the gas line, filling a 16 oz cup in about 3-4 seconds. I am looking into either buying or making a pressure gauge as Stephen suggested but am wondering if it will work if my pump is not engaging. Does the pump run in the start position to deliver fuel while cranking? I read in a search that it runs in the "run" position but my ignition has an "on" not "run". The car will crank endlessly when I jump from my other car, would the starter still be suspect this being the case? Sorry for the rediculous novice questions but I am learning from all this, if nothing else.

Dan, thanks for the info. No, I havent drained any gas from the tank, I will do that though and see what is in there. I will test the battery as well, it has an '07 date on it. If I use a trickle charger it will crank for awhile before dying and it will hold a charge for weeks, ie, interior light, headlights,etc if I dont crank it. Obviuosly it runs down quickly with the non starting issue. I replaced the battery cables not long after buying it and I carefully reconnected the wires going to the lonks just as I found them. I did have to splice in the connectors come to think of it so I will take a look at those as well tonight.

Okay Stephen, an update. I turned the key to the on position, cant hear the fuel pump running. I bought a multimeter a couple days ago and checked the green/black wires running to the pump from the bullet connectors that run into the old storage bin behind the passenger seat. I got no reading. I took a hot lead from the battery and touched the positive (green wire) terminal of the fuel pump and I could hear it running. I wnet back up to the engine bay and I can hear a slight "humming" from the dropping resistor located behind the windshield fluid tank. Then I took the lead off the battery, put it back on and after about 2 seconds I heard a hissing noise, like air leaking and I tracked it to the pressure regulator. If I slightly wiggle the pressure regulator, the hissing becomes a bit more pronounced. I looked at the lines and see no visible cracks, etc. I cranked the car about 4-5 times (I have it on a battery charger with a "jump start mode" and it is only good for 2-3 cranks before it needs to recharge again and could not get it to fire up. Evertime I tried to crank it, I hooked up the hot lead to the fuel pump as well. I will try again tomorrow using jumper cables vs. the charger as I wont have the constant interuptions waiting for a recharge of the battery. I was hoping that I could get it to crank once I discovered the fuel pump issue. One thing I read with interest tonight in the Haynes manual was the saftey belt interlock system, claiming it wont allow the car to start unless it is in neutral and the belt fastened. I saw the location of the overide switch but though "maybe if I fasten the belt Can you please give me direction from here? Could it be the relay? Not sure why I dont get power to the fuel pump r where to go from here, your advice (as well as others) is always appreciated.

Okay, now my feelings are hurt Just kidding, to each his own I guess, I wasnt going after the ricer look but I guess you can classify these as rice Then again, alot on here classify white gauge faces as rice as well I found this link from Dave on his experience with the gauge faces from MSA http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=28936 I had it saved before going with the speedhut faces. Here is a pic of some white speedhut gauges for comparison shopping. I figured by the time you go through the overlays (and fitment issues), the painting the inside of the housing, the upgraded LED bulbs (which in my opinion still dont look all that great unless you string more than one together), I might as well just get the faces I bought and be done with it. I havent installed them so viewing the needle is a question mark although I have read several posts that you can see them. Speedhut White face MSA white face

Thanks Stephen, I will look into maing one up like you describe.

No, I wish I had some though, I like that setup. I have the louvers that slide like a deadbolt and are screwed into the hatch. Good luck on your search.

I was able to get her to fire and run for a second here and there using starter fluid, spraying into the intake past the AFM. It would fire and then die, I could get her to fire just about every time doing this. I pulled the fuel line from the top of the brand new fuel filter and dropped the line into a jar and cranked it a few times and not a drop of fuel came out. I did have fuel come out when I disconnected the line from the line itself and from the metal line it runs into going to the fuel rail. Is it safe to assume that I either have an issue with my fuel pump, clogged line or (worse yet) gas tank? Should I see fuel squirting out when I crank it? I looked for a fuel pressure guage but all I found was labled "for most cars except Bosch and certain GM cars. Thanks!

I went out in the garage and snapped a few pictures of the guages. I think for the money they look a helluvalot better than the vinyl from MSA and you dont need to screw around with different bulbs, painting the inside of the guages white or silver. Just plug and play. I originally was going to get black with a bluish green font, they almost look stock. After playing around with different combonations, I opted for silver with a blue font that will match the head unit of the stereo. no juice hooked up juiced up but taken with a flash taken without a flash, a little blurry but you get the idea, I didnt shoot the 3 center guages but they are included as well. The only thing I didnt like was the Speedhut logo and found out after the fact that you can have them delete it for an extra 10 bucks. They have a lot of options, indiglo, reverse indiglo, faces in black, white, yellow, red. Different font types, graphics.

Check out the guage faces from speedhut.com. Click on Datsun guages and play around with the different setting they have available. I bought mine with the reverse indiglo, you can go with different font colors and faces among other options. $89.95 and they look fantastic, very good quality. I dont have them installed yet but will try to post pix if you want to see them.

Thanks John and Dan for the insight and the encouragement. I had to play "family guy" yesterday since it was Fathers Day so I didnt really have much time to play around with it. I will do a search Dan on your gas tank fix, I did see that POR15 has a kit out to refurbish it, so if I have to go that route and pull it, I will be going it on my own. I too dont have a lot of $jack$ laying around for this project so I have to do everything I can think I can do and only as a last resort (i.e welding) hire a pro to do it. Maybe I'll try the little gas and see if she at least tries to catch.

Thanks Dan. I wnet out and looked at it, it is part #a-31-060-001 for L28, stamped on it. I did a google search with no results coming back and then I did a search on here and found an old post from Sblake01 with a drawing of the connector. Without pulling it back off, I remember that the pins were all the way across, none missing, so I am assuming it is for a 75-77. The car was running fine when I bought it last September, I drove it home from the shipping terminal, (about 20 miles), drove it about 25 the next day back and forth from work. I noticed the next day it seemed to be running a little off, then the next day it was missing badly. I had changed the oil and filter up to that point and I also did some cleaning of the engine bay. I did pull the AFM to clean the boots (the PO had spray painted the car, right through the hood vents and there was silver paint everywhere!). Not long after that the car started running worse. I am thinking maybe i forget a ground on it, so over the past week I removed it, cleaned the connectors and the ground wires very good. Checked the boots for cracks, put it all back together and now i cant get it to fire, it turns but thats it. I checked this morning for spark with a test light and all 6 plugs are getting juice. That leads me to think its a fuel issue. I couldnt hear the fuel pump "click" when I turn the key but have listened before for it when the car was running and never could. The injector wires have seen better days and need replacing, probably the injectors themselves while I am there. I am thinking of getting some starter fluid and seeing if I can get it to fire, what do you think? From there, as much as I hate to think about it, start replacing things until I get it, injector wires, injectors, fuel pump, wires for thermotime switch, pull the tank, etc My knowledge is limited, but with this board and all the great people on here I am learning. Spark, fuel, air...I know that much.

Thanks for the kind words...I was very frustrated yesterday to say the least. I cant sell the thing, I would lose way too much as I overpaid for it to begin with, plus shipping. I made up my mind just to suck it up and throw some good money after bad, it is a fairly straight car, I've seen much worse. And yes, I thought about the gas too, its reading about 1/8 tank. I actually put a gallon or so in it last week after replacing the fuel filter becasue that thought entered my head and she finally kicked over. I did the same thing yesterday with no luck. I am trying to keep the fuel down just in case I have to (dreaded thought), pull the tank. I'm off in a little bit to go buy a few diagnostic tools, fuel pressure guage, circuit tester. I will prevail eventually, or, find a mechanic to do it for me

, I use it too, thats how I found the other pic . As much as people on here have helped me, I hope that I can contribute in some way myself, even if it is a photo. BTW, took me a little bit to figure out how to add those numbers to a photo, glad to see my hard work is being put to good use.

Thanks for the clarification again. I am very discouraged right now as I cant even get it to start now. It cranked last week and kicked over...seemed to idle okay but spewed black smoke during acceleration. It was running that way before I replaced the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. The plugs were pretty black but dry, not oily. After I replaced everything, it ran the same way. The past couple nights I took out the A.F.M. and checked the boots (soft and crack free), cleaned the connectors with electrical contact cleaner. Did the same to the "bullet" connectors for the thermotime and water temp switches. Put it back together and it cranks but wont kick. I am quickly feeling like I bit off more than I can chew with this project I bought and am considering giving up on her.I bought the car last Aug and got royally screwed on it (Ebay, I know). It needed cosmetic work, new paint and seats reupholstered. Was billed as a great running, rust free car. I gutted the interior to do the POR15, Dynamat treatement, and replac the carpets. Then I found a rot hole in the floor and that it had spread to the frame rail. I ordered a rail from Bad Dog last week and have contracted a welder to weld that in place and fix the floor. I have the POR15, Dynamat, new carpet, seats refoamed and recovered. I also bought a new steering wheel, stereo, speakers, antenna, shift boot, Speedhut guage faces, etc. I am really disgusted right now though with the process. I guess I will walk away from it for a bit

The first pic is from a "77 280, mine to be precise Thanks for the loan of your pic in my previous thread.

Stephen, I will look into wether the AFM is original. I bought this car as an "original, unrestored, unmolested car". The PO lied about everything else I have found up to this point so why not the AFM as well I did see the thermotine, cold start and water temp and they are all hooked up. I ended last night at pulling the connectors and giving them a good dose of contact cleaner. There never seems to be enough time to do what I want on this car though, between the demands of work and family and everything that goes along with it, it leaves very little time Have you ever wanted to vacation in beautiful CINCINNATI? I'll hook you up if you do...restaurants, nice hotel, beer, etc in exchange for a little garage time

Congrats, the car looks super. I know about the wife at home with a kid. Back in 2000, 3 weeks after my son was born, I flew to Florida to buy and drive back an Infiniti J30. I was gone 20 hours but I STILL have to hear about it every now and then! And...her Mother was in town helping her, I should have made it a 20 day trip

My dome light turns off as soon as the door is shut, it is not on a delay at all. If you push the button at the door sill that controls the light, either driver or pass. side, its on/off and thats it.

Well, I just got back from the garage and it seems I have an N42 block with a P79 head. That answers the question on the CHTS. Now, I just have to figure out why it is running rough and billowing black smoke when I accelerate. I pulled the A.F.M. tonight, boots are soft and crack free. Cleaned the connector and ground. Too late to mess with it anymore tonight, tomorrow's another day.

Thanks Stephen, as always, your knowledge astounds me. It makes sense now that I saw nothing in the FSM about it. I did a Google search last night and found an article on it but it was a 280ZX. Now I am going to have to go out and check the numbers on the motor, I am assuming if it is a ZX thing that the head or entire motor has been swapped. I've never checked to see if the numbers matched. Thanks as well for the clarification of the pic. I did notice it was skewed compared to mine. I am learning as I go and it is very helpful to have this board and people like you to help educate me, I am a s-l-o-w learner though and still have a l-o-n-g way to go

I did notice the location of the clip being similar, what threw me off a little was the location of the wire going to the coil being in between #1 and #5 and mine running between #5 and #3. Thanks for the heads up on the CHTS, I breezed thru the EFI bible last night trying to find something on this. I would think that should be connected but I will be damned if I can find any wire remotely close to it. I looked at the wiring diagram (not my forte by any stretch) and cant find the CHTS on it either. Any idea where on the wiring harness I can look for this? I am assuming it is part of the EFI wiring harness.

Hopefully you guys can help me clarify things for me. Can you take a look at my photos and tell me that I have my dist. wires correct? I did a search and the photo I found is in the same order as mine but it looks to be like my wires (red Taylor) seem to be one off on the dist. cap. I looked in my Haynes manual and it seemed a bit confusing to me as far as the cylinder order and firing order. Also, if someone could let me know what this plug is for in the last phot I would appreciate it greatly. I took care in replacing the wires one at a time but just need some clarification. BTW, its a '77 280Z. Thanks Is this the correct order? My dist Photo I found online, please note the #1 seems to be off one compared to mine Plug I cannot find pictured anywhere thanks