MEZZZ

I pulled out some of the rear suspension last week. My plan is to replace struts, springs, brakes, brake lines, bushings, install the R/T mount, etc. After some hassle, I got the half shaft bolts out and dropped each side at the lower control arms. I used some penetrating oil on the spindle pin lock pin and let it sit over night. Came out and backed off the nuts and hit it with a hammer and the spindle pins moved fairly easily from side to side. I used a punch and was able to get both out without any issues! I gimped up the ends a little but have an extra set ready to use. My question lies with the inner and outer bushings. One set slides off very easily, the other side seems to be stuck pretty good. I got a pic off of Atlantic Z where the guy uses a pipe wrench to twist it off (with rubber intact.) I simply sheared the rubber part of the bushing off attempting this. Any suggestions? I have no real rust issues underneath the car, it is pretty clean actually. Also, I am having trouble getting the driveshaft seperated at the flange. I sprayed it heavily a couple times and cant get the nuts to budge, the ones where the bolts are a "D" head. Its seems I cannot get a box end on them, same problem I had at the half shafts until I ground down a couple 14 mm wrenches. Am I looking at the same thing with this or is there an easier way? Thanks in advance. (Photo courtesy of Atlantic Z Car Club) although this is my favorite site by far

That was great! Of course I just just a kid back then but damn I used to love that corny show! I am sure I was amazed at the $9,950 Jaguar, that was about 2/3's of my fathers salary back then

I have the same setup. 225/50/15 Toyo Proxes, Ilummina's and Eibachs, front air dam, no rubbing at all. I do have a 280 if that matters.

In keeping with the nature of this thread, I just got home from a 12 hour work day, so I went into the garage and looked at my Z for about 30 seconds

I searched for the column cover as mine was cracked and a couple mount points were broken. Every one I found was over $100. I finally found one for a 240 (smaller than the 280 cover) on Ebay for $25 bucks, looked like new. I tried the toothpick trick but it was to far gone to save. The P.O(S) had used duct tape as a remedy, it worked okay but the replacement is much nicer.

I used the MSA seat foam on my 280 without incident. THey did state that the foam would need a little modification. I spoke to them on the phone and the guy told me I would have to trim a little of the headrest area. I bought the new skins fron a vendor on Ebay and opted to go with the earlier style 240 covers with the grommets as I have always liked the look. Using those covers, I didnt need to trim anything, they actually went on a little loose IMO, I stuffed the tops of the covers with fill from a foam pillow to fill it out a bit.

Looks nice Arne, I might do that with mine as well when I install, need to paint, etc. first, so at this rate, another year or so

Brian, you can always take a photo to a sign shop that does vinyl and have them make a set for you in any color you like. I've used a sign shop for a few thngs in the past, Harley logo, Neuspeed decals, etc. and have always been amazed at what they can do and how inexpensive as well.

I bought a set of 15" Rewinds with Toyo Proxes 225/50/15, shipped from MSA last summer. They came mounted, balanced, included chrome valve stems and the center caps. Shipped from California to Cincinnati for $1079 total. I looked around and found the wheels cheaper a couple other places. But when I factored in tires, mounting, etc, they seemed to be the best deal. Shipped right to my door, bolt them on and go.

I replaced my wheel bearings last fall and I had only changed a flat tire before. So, if I can do it, Im sure you can too. A drift is usually made of brass, similar to a punch, you strike it with a hammer to remove the bearing. I didnt use one. I bought a wheel bearing race kit at my local Harbor Freight store for around $30. It had different sizes and the ones needed to do the job. I did a quick search and found this link, not the same kit I bought. Not sure if you can do a loaner from your local auto parts store but worth a call. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45210 The outer race is just that, the bearing consists of inner/outer "rings" for lack of a better word. You would use the kit above by finding the correct size diamter adaptor and tapping the race into place with it. Definitely replace the cotter pin and get some good bearing grease. Make sure you do not mix up the bearings, open one package at a time. Here is a tutorial from Atlantic Z that I found to be helpful. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4411 direct link to what you need. I bought mine from here.

I think (at least on the surface) that car is light years better than the first one from the start of this thread. I agree with everyone else, that car had some serious issues covered up. The nicest thing about the Ebay car is the original paint. If it is original, there likely are not any hidden issues to deal with. Granted, the automatic is a drawback but can easily enough be changed out. Take it from my (bad) experience and I wish I had done more research before making my purchase. Start with the cleanest car you can find and afford. You will save money in the long run. Take your time, read this site, learn about the cars, the trouble areas, what to look for both good and bad. Or, find an experienced Z guy to look at it for you or with you. I bought a car for $4K, spent $1k to have it shipped here. So far, Ive spent about $5-6K more on it and I would be embarrassed to admit what I have in it to this point. I am doing all the work myself, learning as I go and spending ALOT more than I would have ever thought. In the end, I will have a car the way I want it to be which is nice and learned alot along the way. On the down side, I could have shelled out that much and gotten a very nice car and been driving it the past 2 years Good luck in your search.

Dave, looks great with the recess for the plate! Looked too plain before but the recess really turned out nice. I also like the Klearz lenses. I looked into some but read about some quality control issues. I ended up scoring a set of Euro amber lenses off of Ebay last month instead. Installed them over the weekend, more of a pain than I thought. Keep us posted

Arne, Dave sent me on of these a couple weeks ago, I highly recommend it. Looks to be very well made with everything you need for the install. I wont put mine in until after paint since I will be removing glass but I'll feel much better with it back there.

I am going with the ever so slighly modified version for my '77. I just swaped out the rear tail lights this week for the "euro" amber lenses. The chrome surround was peeling in the corners so I sanded it all down including the finisher, satin black on the finisher, gloss black on the surrounds. I will have the s/s window trim powder coated black as well as the 240 bumpers I put on. Front spoiler and Konigs round out the exterior mods. Suspension, Tokico Illuminas, poly bushings, Eibachs, Toyota calipers and Daves version of the R/T mount. Interior, gutted and doing the Dynamat, seats redone with early version with the grommets ( I always liked those), new wheel, Indiglo guage faces and an upgraded stereo. All in all, still pretty stock looking but a bit different to be a bit different. Oh, and the all important 3rd brake light from Dave for safety.

I got great advice AFTER I bought my Z. Look for the cleanest car you can afford to start with, if you cant afford a clean car, keep saving until you can afford it. You will end up spending LESS money in the long run by strting with a cleaner car in better shape. Believe me, I wish someone told me before I made my purchase. I have kept a spreadsheet of every dollar I have spent on mine from purchase price, shipping to every item I have bought in the past 2 years. I seperate the spreadsheet by category, interior, exterior, suspension, motor, etc. Just last weekend, I made the mistake of hitting sum fill and adding up all the lines and was shocked to see how much I had in this car and it is still quite a way from being "finished" if there ever is such a word. I could have bought a nice turn key car for what I got in this already. On the plus side, I get to do it the way I want, learn the car as I go and it will be a source of pride when I finish it. Good luck

if you're interested, email me and let me know. And of coarse, shipping is included in the price. Dave Dave, definitely interested, I will send you a p.m. I still need to get the diff. mount installed I got from you Working 7 days a week lately blows! I will add this to my parts pile I have been collecting for installation at a later date. Thanks

Dave, since I like to support fellow members, I will gladly take one of your hands if you decide to make some. I have a 280, not sure if that matters with diodes and the like, I am not well versed. Let me know if you plan on doing some. Mgood, thank you for the angle info.

Beautiful Arne, thank you! I like that it is a colorless lense to boot, seems like it would blend a bit better. Now I just need to figure out the angle of the rear window and palce my order...appreciate the reply.

I tried to search on this, I was wondering if anyone has any ideas/experience on installing a 3rd brake light. Not that it has happened to me (yet) but I dont want to be rear ended. The 3rd brake light has been mandatory in the U.S. since '86 I believe, my "85 Cadillac had one. People are so used to seeing this I am wondering if I'm risking a rear end collision. I just got a set of JDM amber lenses yesterday and thought about how to go about putting a 3rd light in while back there. I know the Corvette back in 85-86 had a roof mounted one tacked on, painted body color, dont want to go that route. Others fit in the inside of the rear window. Is there any options out there that anyone knows of? I appreciate your comments/opinions.

Looks great, I really like that color. Congrats and keep us posted with the progress.

Where to start? I finished the complete front end/brake rebuild in October, have her up on stands and stalled out on completing the rear end/brakes. Once thats finished, repair the small rust issue on the passenger floor board. Finish up the interior with POR15/Dynamat and new carpet. Install the rebuilt seats. Then its onto the body. Strip off everything I can and take it to have it dipped and stripped, sand the rest of the body down to bare metal and do paint and finish it off with new weatherstripping.

You are welcome. Ive had mine for 3 + years now as well. Finally got the motor running decent, I did the "must be this part" thing for awhile, got expensive, figured the parts are 30 years old, wouldnt hurt to replace them anyway. I rebuilt the front end and am currently stuck on the rear, too cold in my garage. Need to check into a decent heater unit Good luck

I am not that well versed on this but I do remember checking my cold start valve to ensure it is operating correctly. You need to get a hold of what is commonly referred to as the Fuel Injection Bible. It is an easy read for the first couple chapters, explaining the system and what each part does in conjunction with the next part, very helpful. Then it goes onto testing different aspects of the f.i. system. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm Scroll down to the bottom of this page and you will find a link to a .pdf file.

I pulled mine down and seated them to the top of the springs before lowering the car to make sure they lined up. It didnt seem to have any issues. I will say, it was an eye opener lowering back down and seeing how far it dropped. I was afraid my hand was going to get pinched under the urethane air dam