MEZZZ

Keep us posted. I notice you have the same trim down low on the sides that I do. Are you planning on leaving that on or taking it off and filling the holes before painting?

Keep us posted, I try to get over to Hybrid a couple times a week just to look. I am moving very slowly on my rear end so hopefully he gets a batch together before I get finished, at this rate, about a month

Not to hijack this thread but I spoke to an ole high school friend a couple nights ago for the 1st time in 30 years. He is partly responsible for my affection for the Z. In 1977, his Dad gave him a '70 model. The other night he told me his Dad always told him it was one of the 1st ones off the boat in late '69 and the 1st one sold in the Greater Cincinnati area. He told me the car is stored in a barn to this day (and has been for many, many years) over in Florence, KY, about a 20 minute drive from my house. He is going to attempt to get me in touch with the owner, his brother in law. Carl, I will report back if I find a low VIN car.

Welcome to the board. You picked a good place to learn about the Z, the users here are great. When I bought my car 2 years ago, I knew how to change the oil (though rarely did), replace spark plugs (did that once) and change a flat tire (3-4 times). Other than that, I just bought them, drove them, sold them and bought another one. I have learned a great deal from the users on this board, either directly or (even more so) through using the search function. If you have a question, its probably already been asked on here. I just finished rebuilding the front suspension and brakes and have now started the rearend. I couldnt have done it alone. Good luck

thanks guys.

I am weighing different options on a differential mount replacement. Someone (you know who you are, thanks again btw) sent me a .jpg on one, Ive attempted to contact a member over at Hybrid on a Ron Tyler type but have not heard back from him in a week. I am just doing some searching and ran across this mount on Ebay. Anyone have any knowledge of this type or have an opinion on this? Thanks http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Nissan-240z-280z-Billet-solid-differential-mount_W0QQitemZ260486423000QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20091005?IMSfp=TL0910051810005r8350 Just found another one here... http://www.newoldstockmotorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=58

This swap can be done without removing the shaft or the pinch bolt from the steering rack. It is a bit daunting to get the bolts out and back in again but can be done. I think the trick is not to remove the bolts all the way that bump into the u-joint, just slide them up enough to get the coupler out.

Damn Stephen, I was all set to buy those until I read your ricey comment

If you end up in Salem and run into the guy that scammed me on my Z purchase, give him a swift kick in the @ss for me

Great, that will give me something to look forward too. I maybe have 20 miles on it since the install. I am getting to tear into the rear end next so it might be awhile longer. Im not thrilled with the 280 mufflers looks, the 240 (vertical) looks much nicer.

I left an email for Roostmonkey a couple days ago since you suggested this in a previous post to me. Still waiting to hear back. I will be redoing the rear end soon and I might as well do it "while I'm there" Thanks

Carl, I would think your statement would be true of just about all of us and our cars, I know it couldnt be more true in my case

I am thinking the guy is a dealer and is using the same backdrop for every car, either that or he has a very odd collection of vehicles. For less money, I think I would rather have this car, not a Pearl but looks much nicer IMO. Although what do I know, I was scorched buying my Z on Ebay sight unseen One thing I learned, see it in person or have someone see it for you. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1977-Datsun-280Z-71K-miles-ORIGINAL-Super-Clean-NR_W0QQitemZ270456860101QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item3ef87c2dc5&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

Throw in tires on the rims, Tokico Illumina struts, bushing kit, Toyota brake calipers, front and rear bumpers and a front air dam and your garage looks like mine did about 6 weeks ago. I definitely felt like a kid at Christmas (except mine were never quite that good). From all my searching, the shorter springs (ending in a 1 on the springs) go up front and the springs ending with a 2 go in the rear. I also read that the Eibach spring should be facing up. When you install the fronts, you will not need to compress the springs as they are much shorter than the stock ones. When you lower the car the top spring perch will drop down to meet the top of the spring. I actually pulled the top perch down a little to make sure it lined up correctly before lowering the car.

Thanks for that Carl, I watched these a couple years ago. I forgot how much I enjoyed viewing them, they are a great watch.

Bart, Those sure dont look like what I took outta my '77 a few weeks back. Mine are plastic. They have been undercoated as well and attach with 7 or 8 sheet metal screws. Those look to be a homemade job.

Arne, I knew I could count on your well valued advice, thanks! I should have stated that I intend for this to be mainly a weekend driver. I dont want to have to wear a kidney belt with this, I want a decent ride but decent handling as well. That is the main reason I held off on the bigger sway and strut bars. I will get going on the rear end in the next couple weeks. I will hold off on getting the alignment until that part is finished. While I am back there, I plan on dropping the rear end, cleaning, stripping and painting everything, wrestling with the dreaded spindle pins. I also need to drop the tank to remove the shock bumper mount so I will clean that up as well while I have it out. I also plan on rebuilding the rear brakes while I am at it. Thanks again.

After a long month of on and off work, I was able to get my car off the jackstands yesterday and take it for a test drive. My front end was shot when I got the car and it was long overdue for some work. I took my time and did things by the book as far as torques specs, etc and could not have done it without this site. I've only taken a wheel off to change a flat and at times thought I had bitten off more than I could chew. I removed the front suspension, cleaned, stripped and painted everything. I replaced the ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings and poly bushings. I used the ball and socket T/C bushings from MSA. I put on Tokico Illuminas with Eibach springs. While I was in there, I replaced the rotors and did the Toyota S12 cailper upgrade and put on new stainless brake lines. I also have a brand new set of 15" Rewinds with Toyo Proxes 225/50/15's. To be honest, I was a bit nervous about getting in it and driving away since I have never done this type of work before. I have spent many, many hours reading posts on here, going through the FSM and Humbles book. I am thrilled to report that there were no wheels flying off the car. The brakes stopped when I hit the pedal and there were no weird grinding noises, thumps or any other strange noises coming from the front end! I have a few questions though as I am still not thrilled with the handling, although it feels MUCH better, I can actually turn the wheel with one hand. I know I need to have an alignment performed, I tried to adjust the toe in by sight but I know it still needs to be tweaked. I have the Illuminas set at 1 right now. I still dont feel overly confident whipping this car into a curve as it still doesnt feel "tight" for lack of a better word. My questions are subjective of course without any of you driving the car. Would a heavier sway bar address some of this, maybe adjusting the Illuminas to a higher setting? How about the strut tower braces front and or rear? I have yet to do the rear end, would this matter? I have attached some photos, as you can see the front is dropped but the rear still needs to be done. You can also catch a glimpse of the bumper conversion and air dam I did before I started the front end, as well as the Pacesetter exhaust. Obviously, the car still has quite a way to go.

I had this problem as well when I replaced my injectors. You have to tighten the heck out of those clamps. Its been a year or so but I think if you pull the top wire going to the starter (the spade connector, not the nutted wire) you can turn the key to engage the fuel pump without starting the motor. Look while turning the key and see if you can spot the leak, mine was very visible. Then torque down on the clamp and see if that fixed it. I remember changing over a couple of clamps to cure it.

I picked up a set of these brakets and they worked well. They were made to convert 280 to 240 style bumpers. Not sure if that helps or not. If you want stock, obviously not but if you are just looking for a set of brackets to mount up your bumper, these would do the trick. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt81970/pd1933484/280Z_TO_240Z__FRONT__BUMPER_CONVERSION_BRACKETS_

I did a quick browse as my other half is waiting for me to take her to dinner, if she cooked, I would have more coin for Z parts Looks like a great site, thenks for sharing!

I am confused on this and need some direction. I am installing Illumina's with Eibachs. The springs do not state what size goes where and I did some seraching in the past. I came upon a post that made me assume the shorter springs went up front. I installed one of them last night. I got on here theis a.m to search for an answer for the Illuminas adjustment and came across 2 posts talking about the longer springs up front. Do the shorter springs go front or rear? Also, on the Illuminas, the adjusting dial just spins when I went to turn it after the install, is this normal? I was thinking I would hear a click or something on each setting. Sorry for the stupid questions, I just want to make sure I have this right as I dont look forward to re-doing it, once is plenty.