Marty Rogan

I finally got time to get the blue '70 out of storage and went for a drive on Sunday. On the way back, I turned on the left turn signal and smoke started coming out of the steering column. I shut everything off right away and it stopped smoking. Last night I took the cover off the steering column. None of the wires looked melted. I am guessing something inside must have fried. Anybody have that happen to them? I remembered that I bought a brand new turn signal and headlight combo switch years ago as spares. After I dug out the spare and removed the original, I started noticing that they were different. The original has two large plugs, one with 3 prongs, the other has 5. On the new one the two plugs both have 3 prongs. One of the plugs is also much narrower and has a wire loom that is about twice as long as the original. Also, it does not have the copper contact arm that I believe contacts the horn ring. Check out the pictures below. The original is on the right and the new one on the left. So I checked the parts CD. The diagram shows the turn signal as being item 2 or 3. Item 2 is described as: "25540-N3605 Comp Switch Turn Signal Dimmer". Item 3 is described as" "25545-N3600 Assy Unit Turn Signal". Neither listing shows any dates on them. My car was built 6/70 by the way. Does anyone know which is the correct part number for the turn signal switch? It is strange that they would show 2 listings for the same part, but no differences in dates they were used. Any body got a known good one that they would like to sell? I am guessing the new one that I have is from a later model car. I have only had 240Z's so I can't tell what it came from. Thanks, Marty

I ran that exact set up for several years. I had to grind down the calipers a bit. It did not cause any problems. Marty

Try this: If you still have a spongy pedal, try this trick that a racer taught me a long time ago. Bleed the rears properly first. Then on the right front caliper, remove the outside brake pad. Use some padded channel lock pliers and press the piston carefully into the caliper. It will travel farther than with the pad installed. BE very carelful when you push the pedal down, that you don't push the piston out past the seal. Do that a couple times till you get all the bubbles out. Replace the outer pad. Then remove the inner pad and repeat the process. Then move onto the drivers side and repeat. Every time I would put new calipers on my race car, I could never get a firm pedal until I did this extra step. After doing it once, it was bleeding as usual. This was written mostly for front calipers, but it should work for rears too. Good luck! Marty

So, what was done to the motor to get it up to 270HP? Which block did you start with?

Are those meshy covers on the air horns just protective covers, or are they actually filters?

Check the Pertronix. The magnets fell out of mine and it ran like crap. I have had 2 of them fail, so I switched to the 280ZX dizzy and had no more problems. I used an MSD Flamethrower coil, with good results. Marty

The Midwest F-Body Association (MFBA) is hosting an HPDE Weekend at Road America on April 30 7 May 1. You can sign up for 1 day or the whole weekend. All car makes are invited. If you have never been to Road America, here is your chance to get loads of track time on this 4 mile, 14 turn road course. I have been running with this group for about 8 years. They put on a well run event. Instructors are available (including me) at no charge to you. Bring your Z out to Road America to see what it can do. You will be glad you did!! Spots are filling up fast. Register now!! http://roadamerica.mfba.org/ Marty

That is REALLY going to throw off your front/rear weight distribution!!

I would recommend Toyo RA1's. They handle great and last a really long time on a light car like the Z. How long is that track? How many turns? Looks like it was a fun track. Marty

Have you gone into the dealer with that actual part numbers that you want? Most dealers can't be bothered looking up 240Z P/N's, but if you give it to them, they can usually order it. Buy the Club's CD if you haven't already. Marty

Have you tried Z Barn? http://www.zbarn.com/ He basically runs an all Z salvage yard. Marty

I have had this happen with a fuse just being loose in the holder. Take the fuse out. Then pinch the holder together to get a tighter fit. I would still put in a new fuse for good measure. Marty

I tracked my yellow '71 for about 7 years. The best tires I have found, without going to full race slicks like Hoosiers, is the Toyo RA1. They have great grip and the last a really long time on a Z. Marty

So what's up? Did you just buy this car? Is it a real Bob Sharp Team car? Marty

According to HybridZ, the vendor backed out and this is completely dead in the water.

I did not see or hear any mention of the clutch slave cylinder. If you have the adjustable type in there, if could just be out of adjustment. Marty

If you live near Crescent City and would be willing to do a favor for a fellow car nut, let me know. One of my car buddies is interested in a first gen. Camaro out there. The pictures look good, but if you have ever looked for a car over the internet, you know that they all look good in pictures. So, if you would be willing to check out a car with my buddy on the phone to tell you what to look for, give me a PM. Thanks! Marty

I used to pull my tire trailer behind my Z with no problems at all. I hardly knew the trailer was back there when towing. Of course I didn't have a lot of weight on it either, probably around 350 lbs. My Hitch was mounted behind the bumper to the bumper mounting holes in the rear of the car. A strap then wrapped around the gas tank and was bolted onto the rear cross member. It was made of very heavy gauge steal. This provided for a very solid mount to the car. Marty

I had plate stolen a long time ago. It's a good idea to report it stolen to the police, just in case someone commits a crime with it attached to their car. You don't want to be explaining anything to the police later. Marty

I have used both. Actually, I had 2 Pertronix. One fried and the magnets fell out of the second one. They worked fine before they failed, but I was not about to buy a third one. The E12-80 woked fantastic and I never had a problem. Of course I carried a spare module just in case. Marty

So, how do you spot a spambot?? It's still good to get the info on the event out there anyway.

MFBA has been hosting an event at Road America in April and October for the last 10 years. The next event is scheduled for April 30 - May 1, 2011. This is a much improved date over the past several years and should be great fun! If you have never driven Road America, I highly recommend it.

Did you change the calipers recently? Try this method: If you still have a spongy pedal, try this trick that a racer taught me a long time ago. Bleed the rears properly first. Then on the right front caliper, remove the outside brake pad. Use some padded channel lock pliers and press the piston carefully into the caliper. It will travel farther than with the pad installed. BE very carelful when you push the pedal down, that you don't push the piston out past the seal. Do that a couple times till you get all the bubbles out. Replace the outer pad. Then remove the inner pad and repeat the process. Then move onto the drivers side and repeat. Every time I would put new calipers on my race car, I could never get a firm pedal until I did this extra step. After doing it once, it was bleeding as usual. Marty

I found another one for sale: http://www.zcar.com/cars_sale_1970-83_240z_260z_280z_280zx/1972_datsun_fairlady_z_for_sale_894326.0.html I remember someone wanting one. From the pictures this one looks to be in pretty good shape. Marty

If you didn't bed the brakes in properly, you could have excess pad material on the rotors. Beandip provided this very good article from StopTech that explains it and some suggestions for getting rid of it: D:\Profiles\c13003\Local Settings\Temporary Internet Files\OLK6D\StopTech Balanced Brake Upgrades.htm Hope it helps, Marty