Marty Rogan

Well, it looks like a lot of people are interested in how to wire this up. So, I guess I will go ahead and attach the diagram that I made up. I'll warn you guys, that it is pretty crude. My drawing skills are about as bad as my electrical skills, !! I also need to give lots of credit to Escanlon who helped me figure this thing out in the first place. E took me through a crash course in "Wiring For Dummies" to figure this out. The picture shows how the oil pressure switch and sender connections should look. I hope this helps those that are interested in making this convertion. Marty Fuel_Pump_Wiring(Final).pdf

Matt, This is your lucky day! I just installed one on my 1/71 earlier this year. I have a wiring diagram and instructions on my work computer. It shows how to wire in a relay, an inertia switch and an oil pressure cutoff switch. Send me a PM with your email address and I can send the info to you tomorrow. Depending on the electric pump you got, you will also need a fuel pressure regulator, if your pump puts out more than 5 PSI. Marty

You are correct! I just did this a couple of months ago. Check with Zbarn.com Marty

The Pertronix optical sensor is basically a plastic ring that is installed over the distributor post (under the rotor). That contains 6 small magnets, equally spaced. This ring is then warpped with the green tape mentioned above. I wish I had a picture of it, but I don't. The distributor does not have magnets in it. The only magnets are the ones in the Pertronix optical trigger. It basically acts as an on/off switch as it rotates inside the distributor. I think the term "optic sensor" is a misnomer (SP?). The sensor "sees" the magnet as it passes by. It does not "visually see anything. It just senses the presence of the magnets. Arne, I would do some thorough cleaning inside the dizzy and see if it helps. the swap would tell you a lot too. I keep going back and forth as to which electronic ignition set up is the best for these cars. So far I have not seen or heard of a clear winner. Marty

Yep, green tape is still in place. The magnets fell out underneath the tape. The older design optical trigger had a plastic ring at the bottom to hold everything in. I don't understand why they changed to an inferior design, when what they had seemed to work fine. I suppose they save ten cents per 100 units in thier manufacturing costs. Marty

Do a search. This has been discussed in detail, as late as last week. If you can't find it or have other specific questions, then get back to us. Marty

Here's the resolution to close this one out. The new ballast resistor has seemed to fix the buzzing sound. Over the weekend, I pulled the optical sensor in dizzy to clean it. Three of the magnets fell out of their slots. I put in a spare that I had and the tach now pulls smoothly to 6K. So if you see this issue, clean the sensor and check the magnets. Marty

Here's an update on this problem. I got a known good replacement tach off EBay and installed it over the weekend. It had the same problem. At this point, I began re-looking at the Pertronix. The optical sensor in the distributor was looking dirty, so I pulled it off to clean it. Three of the magenets came loose from their slots. I happened to have a spare, so I cleaned that up and installed it. Now the tach will spin smoothly up to 6K with no problems. So if anyone experieinces the same problems, I would recommend cleaning the optical sensor and checking that the magnets are in place. Marty

Don't trust the boxes!!! The rotor I got was the correct box, with the wrong part inside. Check it against the other rotor or the old one. You could even swap it over to the other side and see if it is a problem there. But, if the race is kilted, that sounds like your problem. Carefully tap that race down completely and reassemble it. Marty

Good thought Bart. I have had that happen also. Check the bearing races, bearing and seals to make sure they are COMPLETELY seated. I replaced my bearing recently and thought I had everything well seated. Drove the car a few miles and started hearing some noises from the front. I had to re-torque the bearings quite a bit once they fully seated. Marty

Hell 4-6" here just slows us down a bit, ! Really, the biggest problem is that they use salt on the roads to melt snow and ice. As we all know, salt is a real Z killer. That's why you hardly ever see a 240Z in Chicago. And if you do, it probably came from somewhere else like CA, or NM. It seems like you WA guys have a lot of them up there too. I haven't seen a 240Z in a junk yard here since 1987. This weekend, I need to start the hibernation process. Marty

I still have the original diff in there for now, till I can locate a better one (looking for a 4.11: 3.90 or 3.70 R180 LSD). I didn't move it back either, so it sounds like the drive shaft length is ok. I hear you on the increase in torque, I love it!! That is one of the first things I did was to re-torque all the bolts. I'll check it again. The U-joints are new, the front diff mount is new, and I have checked the bolts. Sounds like the only thing I have not checked yet is the nose strap. Is there a test to perform to know if that is good? By the way, I get the clunk when taking off and shifting gears. Marty

Don't really know without getting under there and disconnecting it. I don't really want to drop the drive shaft right now and have to re-fill the tranny. Marty

I'll have to try to get under there this weekend to measure it. I am using the early '71 drive shaft and the diffy in the original position. The info on the Zhome webiste suggests that there is 1/16" difference between the early and later trannies. That is what made me wonder if that was the source of my clunk. Marty

I put an '83 L28 and matching 5 spd into my early '71. I am getting a clunk where I didn't have it before, with the stock L24 and '78 5spd. The U-joints are all pretty new and I replaced the front diff mount. Although I don't remember reading about having to change out drive shafts, I started wondering if there was a difference in the length when they set the diff back on the later models. Anybody know about that? TIA, Marty

Raven, What you should do is a personal thing, depending on your family situation. But you did say that you love the car. The things that you mentioned it needs aren't really all that expensive to replace. Do a little at a time, as budget permits, while you drive the car. The better it gets, the more you will enjoy it. Just be aware. You have a Z, so you ar inflicted with Z Fever, for which there is only one cure, owning a Z!! I had a point in my life when I didn't own a Z for 11 years. Z Fever came back stronger than ever and now I own 2 240Z's!! Just drive the car, enjoy it and be happy! My two cents. Marty

Ed, I live in Chicago and we can get some very cold winters here. I have been storing classic cars for over 25 years with no problems at all. Here's what I do. Clean the inside and outside of the car thoroughly. Get your self a good car cover made of cotton, so that it breathes. Like others have suggeested, change the oil, make sure your anti-freeze is up to par. If you are concerned with moisture in your area, place a few dessicant packets inside the car and in the engine bay. Also, if you storage are is not real secure from mice, you should plug up openings, such as tail pipes, the air cleaner snorkel, etc, with steel wool to discourage them making a home in there. Fill your gas tank and use the proper mixture of Stabil. That will prevent any condensation from forming in the tank. Drive the car around till you get it up to operating temperature, at least 20 minutes of actual driving, not just idling in the drive way. Drive the car right into the spot that you are storing it and shut it off. Don't start it again till spring!! Some people start their cars and idle them in the garage. This does not get it up to proper operating temperature and could do more harm then good by introducing moisture into its systems. Remove the battery and bring it inside. Store it on a thick block of wood. Don't place it on a concrete floor, as that can ruin a battery. I used to put the cars up on jack stands, but stopped doing that a couple of years ago. Your springs can sag from hanging there for months. Todays modern tires are more capable of sitting with weight on them for extended periods of time than old tire designs. Roll it around once in a while if you can. That's about it. Like I said, I have never really had a problem with storing cars this way. You just have to cover it and try to forget about it. That is the hardest part! I usually feed my Z habit by planning my next project and buying parts to put on in the spring. If you are lucky enough to have a heated garage, that is even better. You can get some of those projects done while the car is off the road. Well, hope that helps. Good luck! Marty

I use Zaino Brothers: http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc This stuff puts down a phenominal shine and it is very durable. There are a lot of good tips on their website too. Marty

Just a word of caution here. POR 15 is EXTREMELY TOXIC!!!! You should only spray it if you are using a proper respirator. A simple paper face mask just won't do. Marty

It goes on the lower right hand corner of the passenger side quarter window. I don't know if there are any precise measurements on where it is supposed to go. I believe it was a final quality check approval that was just slapped on before the car was shipped. Back in the day I seem to remember seeing those stickers put on pretty ****-eyed. So unless one of the resident restoration gurus chimes in, I would say anywhere in that general area would do close enough. I basically guessed on mine. Marty

Here's an option for you, unless you intend to enter into a Concourse Car Show. I mounted my new labels on some very thin magnetic sheets that I bought at an ofice supply store. When I am not showing the car, I keep them stored safely in the glove compartment to keep them clean. When I need them, I just take them out to f the envelope and place them exactly where they need to go. The only draw back is the Nihon one won't stick because the radiator is brass. I just use some Scotch tape under it for that spot. Confirming the exact location is a little easier when you can move it around. My 2 cents! Marty

Since Konigs are a Mini-lite / Panasport knock-offs, I wonder if the Panasport center caps would fit them? Just a thought. Marty

E, I certainly don't have a problem donating mine to help with the research. I just need to get a working one before I pull it out. As soon as I get one, or it goes into storage, whichever comes first, I will ship it to you. Marty

On that note, does anyone have an early tack for a 70/71 in good working condition that they want to sell? Marty

I rarely, if ever pitch anything from these old cars. In fact I am collecting the original parts that I am missing (steel fan, steering wheel, etc.) to put it back original once it is retired from track duty. Maybe we could work something out though. I would be glad to loan it to you to support the cause, if you send it back repaired some day. How does that sound to you? In the short term, I just need a tach that works! Marty