Marty Rogan
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Everything posted by Marty Rogan
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The runs great. You can hear the engine continue to pull hard after the tach falls off the cliff. It is a little discomforting to not know the real RPM's since this is my track car. E has helped me out with some electrical issues, and he is very good. Unfortunately, I am not so good with electrical stuff, as E can verify. On my last project, We had to break out the old "Wiring for Dummies" book to get me through, right E? !! If the fix involves digging into the elctonics inside, I may be better off just replacing it. I didn't want to toss it aside if there is a simple fix though. Does anyone know of a plug and play tach replacement that looks pretty close to the original look? I know there won't be an exact replacement, but it should not stick out like a sore thumb. Marty
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A little background on the car. This is my early '71. It has a stock coil and a Pertronix ignitor, in a stock distributor. The tach will climb as normal till about 5500 to 5800, then it falls to practically zero. When you shift it climbs again as normal. All the connections are good. I have checked the grounds. I can't find anything that appears to be wrong. Has anybody out there had this problem? Any ideas on how to fix this, or is the tach gone bad? TIA, Marty
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My third 240Z - engine compartment
Marty Rogan commented on Arne's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
Damn Arne, that thing is clean!!! Nice find! Marty -
Come on over to the yeloow car club!!! You won't regret it. There aren't that many around. You see tons of red, silver or especially white. Be a little different! My two cents. Marty Yellow Z owner (and Blue)
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Arne, I have to agree that you have a nice find. I am not sure I would have bought it with the sun roof, but everything else looks really good. Hey, how is the roof on the parts car? Cut that sucker off and set it aside. When this car is ready for a re-paint, have the roof welded on and you can eliminate the only downside I see with that car. Why sell the yellow car after you have gone this far? Now you have one to drive and one to work on, ! Congrats! Marty
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Update on the coil buzzing. I still have not found the actual cause of the buzzing. One gearhead buddy said that it is likely the oil inside boiling from overheating. I changed the ballast resistor and so far it seems that the buzzing has stopped. My tach still drops off after revving up to about 5700. I have checked all the wiring and the grounds look good. Any ideas on why the tach drops off? TIA, Marty
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Restoration is back on track (with a lot of help)
Marty Rogan replied to Mike's topic in Build Threads
What kind of jute did you use? I have been trying to locate some jute like the original brown stuff that is under the carpets. Anybody ever find a source for that? TIA, Marty -
Way to go Phred!!! sounds like a lot of fun! Marty
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Thanks for the reply Steve. So, it is definitely not a directly compatible connection. I figured that, or I probably would of heard of someone doing it already. Marty
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I recently picked up an R180 diff with 3.54 gears. I believe it came off a 78 280Z. The connections for the half shafts are not the typical 240Z flanges where the half shaft bolts on. These half shafts have a splined end that inserts into the diff. I think you then tighten up a nut on the half shaft to secure them. I was looking into replacing that connection with a 240Z side flange so that I could bolt on my existing half shafts, since they have new Spicer U-joints in them. Then I saw some CV joints on EBay. I was wondering if CV joints would mate right up to that connection? CV joints have a splined end too. Not sure if they have the same number of splines or the same length shaft though. Can CV shafts be used with an R180? Anybody know??? Thanks, Marty
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Ed, Did you ever figure out why your MSD was buzzing? I had an MSD coil that was buzzing. I changed the coil and it was fine for a while. However the second coil is now buzzing too. I still have not figured out what is causing it. Marty
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Well done Arne! I know how you feel, having recently changed my motor twice! Marty
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New Jasper Remanufactured Engine
Marty Rogan commented on Marty Rogan's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
They remaufactured to OEM specs. However they do add some improved parts. The pistons are graphite coated, to prevent pre-mature break-in/start up wear. They use improved valve seals. And this engine was bored 40 over. I am using the '83 5spd that matches this motor. Unfortunately, I only had the stock 3.36 diff to use. That and tires are next on my list of improvements. I am thinking of going with a 3.7 R180. An LSD would be great, if I can find one at a reasonable price. -
New Jasper Remanufactured Engine
Marty Rogan commented on Marty Rogan's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
Yeah, I used to buy lots of parts from them in the early 80's!! -
3 Into 2 Pacesetter Header
Marty Rogan commented on Marty Rogan's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
So far it has worked out great. I have had 2 track days and about 800 miles so far. I have no complaints. -
New Jasper Remanufactured Engine
Marty Rogan commented on Marty Rogan's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
Thanks. It was a long journey to get to this point, but I think it was worth it. -
I am using the SU's. They are rebuilt originals, not ZT's. -
3 Into 2 Pacesetter Header
Marty Rogan commented on Marty Rogan's gallery image in Big Z Photo Collection
I believe it was $325, with the header included -
Header with Jet-Hot ceramic coating.
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Polished on the outside, ported and gasket matched on the inside.
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New '83 L28 with polished intakes
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Remanufactured '83 L28.
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Restoration is back on track (with a lot of help)
Marty Rogan replied to Mike's topic in Build Threads
Now aren't you glad you didn't sell her!!! It's good to see you making progress after all this time! Looking good! Marty -
Thanks for the replies. 409 eh? That's interesting. I have used SEM in the past with good results. And I did use the method where you use lacquer thinner first. I did that on the driver's door panel (dyed it from a new black one), because I could not find a new blue one. That was 6-7 years ago and it has held up very well. It does not have the same sheen as the new passenger door panel I was able to find. It is slightly dull. I was not sure if this would work equally well on seat covers. They obviously get a lot more wear than a door panel. I will do everything I can to clean them first and resort to SEM if I have to. Having original blue covers was just too good to pass up. These wer the only ones I have seen show up since I bought the car in 1998. Thanks, Marty
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I won those blue OEM seat covers that were on EBay recently. They do have some odd staining in a couple of spots. I want to try scrubbing it off first, but if that doesn't work I will have to use SEM on them. Has anyone out there used SEM on seat covers? What kind of results did you get? Did it hold up? Rub off? TIA, Marty