Marty Rogan

I saw a great one yesterday: "If you are going through hell .... keep going." - Winston Churchill Marty

I think there are a couple of places that offer them. I got mine from a guy that used to have them on eBay all the time, but I have not seen them lately. I think it was some initials. Something like SK Innovations. Can't remember, its been a while. Nice quality work though. Good luck, Marty

Yes and Yes. The calipers are significantly wider, and the actually have a "W" cast into them. The spacer will center them over the vented rotor. Will the right pads, this set-up is killer. I use the Axxis Ultimates (ceramic/kevlar compound) You won't be dissappointed. Marty

I am running the Toyota 4 piston calipers with a spacer to center them for the vented 300ZX disks. My Panasports are the 15x7 with zero offset, but I doubt the 16x7 would be any different. They work fine. As a matter of fact, I first tried an Enkei style mesh wheel with a flat center section and they contacted the calipers. The Panasports have a bowed spoke, which provide enough clearance. Marty

There are no Z Clubs in Wisconsin that I know of. You are more than welcome to join the Windy City Z Club in the Chicago area though: http://www.windycityzclub.com/default.asp Marty

Many thanks to those who responded to my ORIGINAL question. Sounds like some good things to try. Marty

Many thanks to those who responded to my ORIGINAL question. Sounds like some good things to try. Marty

Which model year(s) had the collapsable wheel chocks for the jack kit? TIA, Marty

Thanks Ed. I was thinking about using a product called "Goof-Off", which has worked well on wood and metals. I am just not sure how vinyl would react to it. Marty

2 Seconds, great job! It may not sound like a lot to some people, but 2 seconds at the track is huge! I have heard about spraying carb cleaner around the throttle linkage, but I would not have thought to spray it on the carb insulator. Anyway, I am very happy to have that problem behind me. Marty

I was running short on time, so I broke down and dropped the car off at my local Z Speciality shop. He traced the problem down to the rear carb insulator gasket was blown. Apparently, under heavy acceleration, it was sucking too much air in. It would have taken me a lot longer to figure that one out! So put that one in your Z memories banks if this ever happens to you. Well, I went to an open track day yesterday to test her out. She ran like a champ all day! Woohooo!! I really ran her hard too and had no problems with fuel. I kept the tank full just to be sure. It was a fantastic day. About 87 degrees, with a light breeze. The event was put on by a local dealer that is a Charter member of the Autobahn Country Club. http://www.autobahncountryclub.net/index.html I was surrounded by some pretty fast company: plenty of Feraries, Maseratis, a 911 Carrara a Lotus Elise and a couple of Alfas. The old Z held her own out there though. It's a real hoot to see a Ferari pull over and give you a point by. I passed the 911 too. I am sure this is mostly due to these guys having more money than driving talent, but it was fun just the same. I may have had the cheapest car out there, but it wasn't the slowest!! The owner's son brought a Ferari Challenge car. Man was that car fast!! He's winning his class in the SCCA, so he had the talent to back it up. I put in 5 -30 minute sessions and 1 shorter one for about 140 track miles. Man I love these open track days!! Marty

I am going to look at a supposedly "perfect" dash. He did say that there is red overspray on it though. Doesn't sound so perfect, does it. So, is there a good way of removing red overspray on a dash without harming the already fragile vinyl? TIA, Marty

Arrrrrgh!! I am jealous! Our season is about over in mid-October. I have about 2 track days left this season Enjoy 'em while you can! Marty

WOW!!! That is a GREAT Price! I am hoping to get back on the track at the Autobahn on the same day. Only I will get 4 20 minute sessions for $250. And I don't get a BBQ and shirt either! You Cali guys get all the best stuff!!! Rust free Z's and cheap track time. Have fun. Marty

bbarnes, It would be helpful to us if you put your location in your profile. Some one in your area may be able to help you out with parts. For example: I am in the Chicago Area and have a near perfect dash from a '72 in my basement. If you (or anyone else for that matter) were local and were interested in buying it, we could work out a deal. They are too fragile to risk trying to ship, in my opinion. Marty

Try here: http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ When I was re-doing my 240 suspension, Mike said he had a place that could make spring for him at the stock specifications. They weren't cheap though. I ended up finding some Euro springs off Ebay. They were supposed to lower the car by 3/4". The cars now sits significantly HIGHER than it did before. Marty

Let's slow this down a moment. Are you saying that you asked for a "stated value policy" for $10K? Did you pay them the premiums for that? If you paid the premiums for that policy, then they are contractually obligated to abide by the terms of a stated value policy. You should ask to talk to a regional supervisor. Something sounds fishy. After you have chased that down, just remember, you don't have to accept their offer. Consider it the start of negotiations. My first Z was totalled in a fire after 7 years of restoration. It was in show condition. They offered $1,900 (in 1987). After meeting with the regional claims supervisor, I walked out with a check for $6,900. I had receipt, pictures, comparable car ads, etc. Be prepared and be firm, but reasosable. Good luck. Marty

Kurt, Why not paint the panels red? Like you said, the red ones are fairly rare. SEM's Napa Red is a perfect match for the Nissan red panels. SEM is fantastic stuff. I used it to paint a black door panel blue to match my interior. You would never know it was not original by looking at it. Never tried to paint white though. SEM does come in white. If you PM me with your email address, I will send you some good instructions to follow. Marty

Although I am sure ABS would be a lot more durable, you would probably get a LOT MORE takers if the repro was very true to the original in design and materials. I would probably take 2, if they were just like originals. Marty

I just got off the phone with NAPA. A gasket kit for this carb is $17.49, their P/N 2-1279 A float is $12.99, their P/N 2-505 (No gasket, you have to order the above part) Jeez, I thought NAPA would be cheaper than the dealer and quicker than MSA & VB. I did a search on the site which said VB charges $12.49 for a carb rebuild kit. I think I'll see what the dealer's prices are. Marty

Thanks alot Chris. That should help zero in on it. Marty

I seem to remember someone saying they got a float rebuild kit from NAPA a couple of years ago. Anyone know if they are still available? I called NAPA. They said they have a huge book on carb parts, but would need the carb model #. I don't have that info with me at work. Anyone know the model number of the SU's on a stock '71 240Z? I was hoping to at least get some float bowl gaskets locally so I would not have to wait on shipments from far away suppliers. TIA, Marty

Yep, I think a peek into the float bowls is in order. The Holley Blue pump looks like a good buy. Only $12 more than the red and it comes with the regulator. The regulator probably cost more that $12. Did you get the safety shut-off switch? I am not so good with wiring, so if I end up going that route, I have to get with you on some detailed instructions or tips. Thanks Craig! Marty

The car runs and idles fine after coming off the track. The car has a 280Z radiator, fan shroud, and flex fan. It never runs hot, even after flogging it on the track for 20 minutes, it never goes past the "M" on the temp gauge. It doesn't have a header either to throw extra heat in there. I have a rebuilt dizzy on my '70. Maybe I'll swap that in to see if it makes a difference. Marty

YES, I was hoping I could tell you it was fixed too!!! You got it. Starts easily, idles smooth and screams to 5200-5500. You are thinking along the same lines. We were discussing draining the float bowl from the bottom drain to see if anything came out. If yes, then a real good cleaning is in order. Cleaning may be in order anyway, as I have not had the carbs apart myself. The PO had receipts for a rebuild something like 10K miles ago, so I have been hesitant to open them up again. It seems strange that a new mechanical fuel pump would not be able to supply enough fuel for a totally stock motor. It's possible the new fuel pump may have gone bad in the last 5K miles. I'll have to see if I can borrow a buddy's known good fuel pump. What brand electric pump do you use? Marty