Marty Rogan

To tell you the truth, when I put in the Centerforce II, it did not look much different than the 240Z clutch that I took out. I did not measure it, but it could be slightly thinner. You asked for someone to speek up who had actually DONE this, instead of what they THINK should be done. I just did it, and it works. In my mind there is no confusion. I followed the advice of our fellow experts here and bought all matching components for the tranny that I was putting in, which is a '78 5 spd. I bought a CF II, clutch slave (auto adjust), T/O beraing collar and fork for a '78 5 spd. Like Carl said above, MSA notifies you to buy a 280Z collar when buying a CF II. And yes, the 280Z collar is definitely THICKER (longer). I put it all in, and after a little tinkering with the pedal adjustment at the MC, it works flawlessly. I would also recommend that you replace the clutch hose with a stainless steel one from MSA; Earl's hoses, about $15. Also, put in a Speed Bleeder on the slave, to aid in bleeding; http://www.speedbleeder.com/. I believe its the SB7100S, but I could confirm it tonight if you want. I would also recommend using a brand new Nissan T/O bearing. The only real difference in the clutch fork is that the early ones have a hole in it to accept the rod for an adjustable slave. Later ones have a dipple in it where the later, self adjustable rod connects to the fork. You can use either fork/slave matched set, but why bother with the hassle of having to adjust the clutch??? Let us know hwat you find out on the measurement. You have got me curious now. good luck, Marty

ZSaint, I just put a '78 5 spd and Centerforce II clutch in my 71 last weekend. The Centerforce needs the 280Z collar, which is the LONGER one. I also used the 280 clutch fork, so I could use an automatically adjusting slave. Marty

Rick, I recently completed a complete rebuild on the suspension on my '71. I did the same to my '70 2 years ago. In both cases, I used "Moog" brand ball joints and tie rod ends. They are very high quality parts and at least half the price of Nissan parts. I got mine at CarQuest. Don't know if they are in your area. Call around, you should be able to find them. Don't use anything made in Taiwan. Good luck. Marty

Very cool! Looks like a great Magazine. Is it available at any news stand or only by subscription? Marty

Your best bet is buy the Club's PArts CD and buy them direct from a Nissan Dealer, or Courtesy Nissan: http://www.courtesynissan.com/en_US/HomePage_1.chtml As long as the engine is out, you should also replace the tranny pilot bushing. It's also a good time to get there and scrub out and fix anything in the engine bay that needs attention. Marty

Ok, thanks! I think I have got it now. Marty

Thanks for the response Victor. Is that 2MM between the adusting nut and the fork, when the fork won't move anymore? I guess I am getting confused as to which direction to move the fork in to get the TO bearing up agains the PP fingers. Is it toward, or away from the engine? Marty

I have a track date on Saturday. My clutch seemed to be loosing some grip at about 5,800 RPM. I would like it to hold a little longer than that at the track. This is a stock trans, and gine, build date 1/71, so it has the adjustable slave. So, I got out the FSM and Haynes. Their descriptions leave a lot to be desired. Something like, back off the locking nut (pretty straight forward). Adjust the adjusting nut until the fork just stops moving (which way do you turn it, doesn't say; which way is the fork supposed to move, toward or away from the engine?). Then back off 1.5 turns and re-tighten locking nut. After I tried to follow the directions, now I am starting to lose grip at 4,800 - 5,000. I have adjusted it back and forth about 10 times and it hasn't got any better. At this point, I would be happy to get it back where I started. The TO bearing seems to be making some noise now too. I don't think its bad, because it was replaced last year. Can someone explain in detail how to get the proper adjustment? I tried a search, but it didn't reveal a good step-by-step procedure. I need to get a base-line to start from and adjust from there. I only have tonight to get this right and I am off to the track at 5:00 am. TIA, Marty

First of all, make sure that rod is adjusted properly. Second, I would re-bleed the master on the car, then RR, LR, RF AND LF. If that still does not do it, try this: Start with the RF caliper, take out the outer brake pad, open the bleeder and carefully push in the piston with a pair of channel locks or pliers that will reach in there. I put rubber grippers over the pliers so that I don't scratch the pistons. Step on the pedal to push the piston out again. Push it back in. Do that a few times. Replace the outer pad, and remove the inner pad. Repeat the procedure, then replace both pads. Move over to the driver's side and repeat. I had one hell of a time bleeding my brakes after I installed the Toyota conversion. This procedure was the only way I could get all of the air out. Good luck! Marty

Hey TexasZ, Thanks for the tip on MSA. I placed an order with them. FedEx 2 day was only $13, not too bad. Marty

Thanks. How much are they at MSA? My only worry, is that I won't get them in time to get them installed by Saturday. Of course I guess I could pay through the nose for overnight delivery. Marty

Cr#%!! I can't seem to locate Spicer U-joints locally. Everybody seems to have Precision Brand, or I can get Beck Arnley. Anybody have experience with those brands? Otherwise, I guess I will go with Nissan. I need to get them in a hurry, since I have a track day on Saturday. TIA, Marty

I grabbed the half shaft and turned it back and forth. It moves about 1/16". There is an audible noise, before the wheels start to move. So, it looks like it is shot. So there are 2 u-joints on each half shaft, right? I am going to locate some Spicers. I have heard lots of good things about them. Marty

I finished up the suspension rebuild on my '71. Put in PU bushings, new MSA springs and Illuminas. Now that its all back together, I have a clunk coming from the driver's side rear. The clunk wasn't there before the rebuild. I thought something may not have been tightened down, so I went over everything again. Its all tight. While under there I grabbed the half shaft and twisted it. I get about 1/16 of an inch slack and it does make some noise when I move it. Is any slack acceptable in the half shaft u-joints, or should I just repalce it? TIA, Marty

Hey Bill, Now that you have the '73 painted, you will have to change your signature line! Marty

Click on the link in my first post. Marty

Painting the vinyl and plastic in a Z is easy. There are 2 sources for the dye. If you don't have a paint gun, find SEM vinyl dye at a good paint store. SEM is the only way to go, and I have never found another product that works as well or lasts so long. It also looks totally natural. They have Satin Black for your 240Z, and Napa Red for your red 240Z. They have ZX colors, too. Please do not even consider any other brand. Been there, done that. In my experience, there is no other brand that has the correct gloss, durability, and chemical composition to bond to the vinyl. SEM is about $7/can. I use 4-6 for an entire interior on a 240Z. If you have a paint gun (door jamb gun is good, HVLP jamb gun even better). Dupont has vinyl dye that is comperable to SEM. It is about $20/quart. Does one car. Preparation is everything! Here's my process: 1. Remove seats and carpet 2. Use a couple of rolls of paper towels to clean all the vinyl/plastic (VP) with a water based cleaner (soap/water, ammonia, Mr Clean, Mrs Pineoil, ect). Let dry 3. Wet wipe the surfaces with lacquer thinner. Not Enamel or poly thinner, just cheap lacquer thinner. Wipe and scrub and scrub. You will notice the VP getting soft. Stop before you ruin the grain pattern. 4. Now shake your paint can. If using the Dupont, it is ready to spray. Mask off all the unpaint items. I use Big Gulp bottoms taped to the gauges. 5. Rewipe the surfaces quickly with a very wet paper towel, and start fogging on the dye. It is very thin. You may end up with 5-12 coats to get good heavy coverage. Let dry, and you are done. Note: DO NOT PAINT THE SEATS. IT WILL RUBv OFF EVENTUALLY ON YOUR 501'S. The Napa red is a precise match for the Datsun red interior. Even a patch of paint will blend in to the existing panel. The theory behind the lacquer is that it chemically softens the VP. When you apply the dye, it soaks in and grabs the substrate. Dupont also has texture paint to redue the texture for Ford Bronco tops. It so happens to look like vinyl when it is dry. I use it to redue the sill plates... It also works for roll bars to spiff them up. The stuff is bulletproof when dry. It does not match the Datsun sillplate vinyl exactally, but it is a lot easier than trying to recover that rusty piece with contact cement and vinyl. This paint has to be applied with a non-HVLP gun (your normal old fashioned gun is not HVLP). It's the pressure that makes the spiderwebs as it comes out, which then coagulate into the vinyl texture. This coating can then be recoated with black semi-gloss vinyl dye. The driver's door came out so well, that you can't tell the difference in color from the original panels. Marty

Welcome to the club! You have come to the right place. I also happen to have a blue on blue '70. It is both a blessing and a curse. The blue interior is very rare, so you don't see many around. But trying to get original parts for it is nearly impossible. If you don't have to have Nissan parts, then best place to get aftermarket replacements is Classic Datsun: http://www.classicdatsun.com/ They were one of the original shops hired by Nissan to perform restorations on the Classic Z-Car Program. They carry the interior plastic panels, seat covers, and diamond vinyl. Maybe the headliner too. Getting door panels is next to impossible. I have owned my car since 1998 and still have not found a new blue drivers door panel. I bought a black one and dyed it blue to match with SEM vinyl dye, great stuff. I can send you instructions on how to do it if you need them. Visors were blue, carpet was black. New dashes for a 1970 are also pretty impossible to find. Occassionally they might come up on ebay, but be prepared to pay big bucks for them. The correct Datsun paint code is Blue 903. A good body shop should be able to match it. Post some pictures. We always like to see pics of a new member's car. You can check my gallery to see mine. Marty

These guys have given some excellent, sound advice. The only thing I could add is, take your time and be picky. It is well worth the extra time to get a good one. Also, save up your money and buy the very best example you can find, even if you have to buy a plane ticket there and drive it home. I did that on my last 2 and it was a blast. Buying one that has been kept up or partially restored will save you a lot of money in the long run. Check out the Z websites and here: http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/ There are about 100-200 Z's for sale most of the time. It just takes work and patience to find the right one. Hey, the hunt is part of the fun! Good luck on your search. Marty

Several months back he got dis-enchanted with the website. He didn't really say why and I didn't ask. WE trade emails occassionally, mostly about racing. He seems to be doing well. Marty

Thanks for the calculator website. So it looks like the the 4.44 will drive up the RPM's slightly. Does that mean it would accelerate quicker than the 4.11? I'll have to play around with the calculator. On the track that I normally compete at I can get up to 80-90MPH. I will be doing an event or two at Road America, where I can get upwards of 110+. I wouldn't want to drive the revs up too much for that. Marty

Having a flat can be a real pain. It's better tha have one and avoid being stranded somewhere. I just take my spare out when I get to the track. Marty

I have a '71 240Z that I use for High Speed AX at the track, and for lapping days, along with street driving. It has the stock engine at the moment. In the near future, I will be installing a 5spd from a '78. I have been looking into diff choices. Was thinking of using a 4.11 out of a '84-85 Nissan 4x4. I might have a shot at an R190 with a 4.44 ratio. My question is, how much difference would there be between a 4.11 and a 4.44?? Also, what would the differences be? TIA, Marty

Ben, Who told you that waxing the car would make it worse?? Maybe with some Walmart wax, not with a high quality wax. Which do you think would last longer (fade less), protected pain or un-protected paint? The longer you wait, the more damage will occur. I believe the Zaino was has UV protectants in it. I witnessed the proceedure I detailed to you at a Z-Show held at a Detailer's Shop. He took one of the members 280z daily driver that looked like it had not been waxed in about 2 years. It had really dull and faded paint. After he did the hood, the difference was amazing. That faded hood really shined! It did it on my own car and had similar results. Well, its your car, and you can do what you like with it, but it won't get any better on its own. Let us know the results on whatever you do. Marty

I have a car with a blue interior and I can tell you they are black. All of the seat brackets, arm rests and consoles were black, no matter what color your interior was. Marty