Marty Rogan

Thanks Chris. I checked out the website, but did not see anything on there about it. I sent Charlie an email. Marty

I bought a set of nice used rims. they look like Enkei style but have no name on them at all. The came with out center caps though and I have having a bit of a time finding some that fit. I attached a pic at the end. The inner diameter of the whole is 2 7/8" and outer diameter, around the center lip is 3 1/8". I have tried center caps from some swatstica wheels, which were close, but 1/8" too narrow to fit around the lip. If you can ID these wheels manufacurer, have some caps to sell that fit or know where I could find some, let me know. thanks, Marty

All policies have a dedeuctible. I believe I set mine at $500. You can adjust that up or down, and it will affect the premium price. But this is so cheap, that it would not be more than a couple of bucks difference anyway. Marty

The State Farm policy is not strictly for show cars, but is for classic cars. You would need to check withyour agent to review their definitions. I also have my '71 240Z insured with them for an agreed to value of $7,500. While it is a really nice car, it is far from a "show car". Marty

This may be another option for you. I have a little known policy offered by State Farm for classic cars. I have a $9,000 agreed to value policy on my 70 show car. It costs me $39 every 6 months. I get to drive it 2,500 miles per year. I can even drive it to work occassionally, as long as I don't use it as a daily driver. You have to send them some pictures and state what upgrades, restoration has been done to it, but it was not hard to agree on the value. Marty

I don't think this is the same link that I had before, which was very in depth and informative, but you can try this one and maybe do a search on the Hybryd site: http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6616 Marty

There was a discussion of this on the 240Z mailing list. Someone posted this link for additional info: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=27871 Apparently this was discussed extensively on a 510 forum also. Marty

I read recently of a dangerous condition that the PU bushings cause on the tension rod, especially on a lowered car. The bushings don't have much give to them at all and can cause alot of stress on the tension rod. They have been known to snap in two. The recommended solution is to put a PU bushing toward the front of the car, and put a stock rubber bushing on the back side of the rod mount, to allow for additional flex to the rod. that's what I plan to do. Marty

I have the same problem with my 71. I was going to try RIT dye on the carpets. I pictured mixing up a batch in a large metal bushel basket and soaking the whole carpet in it. Is there a reason you can't dunk the whole carpet in it, vs soaking witha sponge? If you get to this before I do, let us know how it turns out. TIA, Marty

Is this an early or late '71? If it is an early model and the console is near perfect, I would be interested. Marty

Too bad you didn't ask the question first. I mounted my stickers on a thin magnetic sheet. I keep them in the glove box and put them on when I get to a show. That way they always look like new. They are too expensive to replace if they get dirty. Not sure what you can do to protect them now. Marty

Charlie, 5 months is not really long term storage. That is what we mid-westerners have to deal with every year. I would recommend that you: 1) fill the gas tank and add stabil to the gas. 2) when you are ready to place it in its hibernating place, drive the car for at least 20 minutes to get it up to operating temperature. Then park it, shut it off and don't restart it till you take it out of hibernation. 3) take the battery out and put it in the basement or somewhere warm and dry. Put a piece of wood under it. Never put a battery on concrete. 4) Some one else said to remove the tires. You can do that, or just jack the car up just enough to take the pressure off the tires and put it on jack stands. You don't necessarily want to have it high enough for the springs to hang and sag. 5) clean and wax as someone said. 6) if there is a possibility of rodents being in the area, stuff a rag in your tail pipe and air cleaner snout, shut the floor air vents and place a dish of moth balls inside the car. Cover it with a car cover. 7) Buy a subscription to Z SPort Magazine, read this forum and buy all the parts you will need for your next project when you bring it out again. This helps from getting bummed out from not driving it! Some of the other suggestions are good too. It just depends on how far you want to go. 5 months is not too bad. Hopefully that won't grow into a long term thing. But if it does, it should be well prepared. Good luck, Marty

Kats, I have never had the pleasure to travel to Tokyo. I would love to tour the Nissan car collection as Alan got to. In the US, I have never seen a judge pull out a tail light bulb, or any other bulb for that matter to check them. But I have never been to the National Convention, so I could not say if they get to that level of detail. Do judges in Japan look to that level of detail? Looking at the pictures of your car, it is hard to imagine that you are losing many points at all! With your level of detail, even replacing hose clamps at the vent hoses, behind the plastic panels! No one ever sees those! Your car continues to be an inspiration for me to keep improving my car. I applaude you for driving your car, and not let it become a garage queen. These cars were meant to be driven! I loose a few points at shows because of rock chips, but I gladdly give those points up in trade for the pleasure of driving the car. Marty

Hi Kats, In the US, Koito bulbs are pretty hard to find, anywhere. I recently bought a set of Koito Headlights for my 70 from Chloe at Midwest Z. I was really excited about that since I was not able to find a set anywhere. Even Dealers could not get them here. Are those bulbs you are showing the stock bulbs for the taillights? Are they used everywhere on the car? Marty

That must be 280 thing. There is no such thing on a 240. You should call Chloe anyway. She is very resourceful and a club supporter. Marty

If you mean the metal bucket that the hedlamp is actually mounted into, yes. Chloe at Midwest Z should have them. http://www.midwestz.com/ Marty

Yep, seen that one and looks pretty decent. I have just about blown my budget for this year already, so I was hoping someone had one laying around for less money. Thanks for the P/N though. Marty

Ed, It looks like I missed a word when I typed that. I am looking for a strut tower bar. This is the bar the bolts across the stut towers, over the engine. It helps limit strut tower flex on hard cornering. Thanks, Marty

Looking for a front strut bar. Want the type that bolts on to the strut towers, not welding please. If you have one, please send a desciption and picture along with your asking price. Thanks, Marty

I have put on NOS parts, and they were silver plated. Marty

Does that PDK stut bar require welding for installation? How much is it. I did not see any pricing for that one on their website. I did see a more typical strut bar that they have on sale for $99. Marty

Jon, You should join us at the Windy City Z Club. Here is the web address: http://www.windycityzclub.com/default.asp If you look under the classifieds, there is a nice sounding 280Z. I don't know anything about it other than what is in the add. You may have to travel farther to find a good Z. The last one I bought, I flew down to NC and drove it back. Good luck on your search. That can be half the fun! Marty

Hey ZHead, It's been a while. Have you completed the trip? We want to hear a detailed acounting on how it went! Marty

Hi All, I am collecting the parts to do the 4 piston caliper/vented rotor conversion in the next couple of weeks. Does anyone know the size of the bolts needed to bolt the rotors to the hub. These are the ones that need to go through the new spacer. TIA, Marty