Marty Rogan

HA! That's the back of my car. The diff plate was made to mount up to the existing holes in the cross-member. The part that is not shown, connects just in front of the ball. That bar mounts behind the bumper and uses the existing bumper mounting holes. I added a couple of pictures, but it is hard to see the cross piece. There is a gentle bend to it to follow the curve of the rear of the car. I used to haul my track tires and a large tool box on a Harbour Freight trailer. It worked really well. I sold the hitch to a member on this forum years ago. If he is still around, maybe he would sell it to you. He seemed to only need it for a move that he was making at the time. Good luck with it. Marty

I saw this website years ago. It was never clear whether they actually produced any shells or not. I am sure shipping to the US would be pretty high.

Mark, In Illinois there is a cash lane. You will pay twice the toll, but you don't have to have an I-Pass. I believe Indiana and Ohio have cash booths as well. I live in a NW suburb of Chicago, if, heaven forbid you have car trouble in this area. I even have a car trailer that I could pick you up with. I will PM you my cell number. Marty

Here is a picture of my old track car. It shows you what round fog lights would look like on a car.

This is the second person that said it was a steal. I am curious as to what a car like like this goes for today.

Congrats on finding what looks like a real gem!! Hopefully the time in Ohio did not let rust creep into it. It looks really clean from the pictures. Looks like the dash is not even cracked. How many miles are showing? I will be watching to see how easy this car come back to life. Enjoy the process. Marty

You absolutely DO NOT want to use Armorall on the dash. Many people have found it to cause the dash to crack. Warm, soapy water is good for cleaning. I use Vaseline to protect the dash. It put back some of the petroleum oils into the vinyl, and makes it look shiney. It helps to soften the vinyl too.

Well done!! Your car is in beautiful shape. That is exactly the kind of guy I like to buy cars from. You can really tell the pride of ownership that he had. Enjoy it!!

I stongly recommend that you use a relay and wire in the oil pressure switch. You really don't want the fuel pump to keep running if the engine quits, due to an accident or anything else. I wired mine up like Jarvo2's diagram. It was not that hard to do, and I suck at wiring. Good luck! Marty

This is what I did on my '71. Just make a small jumper to go from one side of the T Plug to the other. That will get you running. Then you can get a relay and wire in the oil pressure switch.

Great looking car! Could you show some detailed pictures of the roll cage? Especially around the dash and windshield. Thanks!

That thing is so rusty that it looks like it was parked IN salt water, !!

I have that one. I think you will like it.

I bought a Quick-jack BL-3500 from BendPak http://www.bendpak.com/Shop-Equipment/QuickJack/BL-3500.aspx I got the 12v versions so I could use it on the race car at the track. It works well, lifts the car 17" off the ground and it is much more stable than jack stands. If you will never use the portability of the lift, it comes in a 110v version as well. My only complaint is that it is kind of heavy, but that is because it it very well built. Marty

I removed the vent tank with no problems whatsoever. It is a U.S. Emissions device. Non U.S. vehicles leave them out, per Nissan's design. I even used a Nissan hose from a non-U.S. spec vehicle that deleted the tank. That was many years ago and I don't have the P/N any longer. It may be in the parts manual though.

Doug has got this right. I do contracts for a living. Without a signed contract, the owner has absolutely no recourse against you. Even if you had a signed contract, it would cost him a lot of money to sue you and enforce the contract. Probaly more than the car is worth. Just treat the $500 as a valuable lesson learned. You should post pictures of the car and this person's EBay name so others can stay away from this joker. Next time you find a car that you think you want, send a post to the community here and see if there is a member that lives close by.who would be willing to check out the car for you and possibly help close the deal. I have had members here go look at a car for me. I also have checked out a car for another member. He ended up buying the car and was thrilled with it. Don't get discouraged. There are still plenty of good 240Z's out there for sale by reputable owners. Good luck with the next deal. Marty

I can second that. Had it happen on my track car. Make sure your sealant is rated for gasoline use. Marty

I use an MSD Blaster 2 coil and it works great.

I also put the MSA box on my '71 Z. It installed pretty easily, and was of good quality. I do remember that a couple of the connectors were not right, but I just spliced in the correct ones from the old burned up fuse box. I never had fuse box problems again after that. Marty

That is my old race car. It had a turbo charged L28, making 330 RWHP when I had it, and that was a lot to handle. 650 HP in a 2100 lb car is just a beast. Marty

I had a hard time bleeding brakes on my Z after installing the Toyota 4x4 calipers. Here is a copy of the post I did back then: I feel your pain. I had one hell of a time bleeding my brakes after putting the conversion on. Make sure you thoroughly bleed the master cylinder first. Then move to the right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front. I also had to crank up the rear drums a bit more. If that doesn't do it, try this racer trick that Rick taught me. Once the brakes are bled all around, go to the right front, remove the outer brake pad, open the bleeder screw, then take a pair of lock jaw pliers and force the pistons in. Be careful not to push them past the seals. Put the pad back in and do this to the inner brake pistons. Then repeat on the left front. I was amazed at how much extra air I forced out of the calipers. Once I got it bled correctly, the brakes are killer! I also highly recommend installing SpeedBleeders on all 4 corners and the master. It will make your life much easier. Hope this helps! Marty

So how significant of a race was the Macau Grand Prix? And how significant was the driver? The story does not even say how the car did in the race. Sure it has an interesting racing provenance, but it is not a BRE Team car or driven by Newman or Morton, to justify a price like that. The EBay auction ended at $25K. To me, in my opinion, that seems like a more realistic price. Marty

I just saw this listing: 1970 Datsun 240 Z Race Car WR Showroom It claims to be the Macau Grand Prix car. The back ground story appears correct. The listed VIN number is also correct. Interesting car, but is it really worth $70K? Marty

Does anyone know if the the door latch inserts from a 280Z fit a 240Z?? I am missing the driver's side on my car. Marty

From your description it sounds like your clutch throw-out bearing has gone bad.