Marty Rogan

Thanks for sending this. It looks at least equal to the MSA Strut Bar.

The Top End brace looks like a nice piece. I agree that the triangular brace would work much better. The installation directions are not real clear, and the don't show a picture on how it is attached at the fire wall. Are they talking about drilling through the hood channel, right next to the weather stripping? Seems like that area would not be very strong. Anyone have pictures of an installed one, that shows that connection?

I am considering putting strut bars on my '70. MSA's front strut bar is priced at $110. I had one of those on my '71 and thought it worked ok. They also list a Cusco strut bar for $215. Has anybody had experience with the Cusco bar? Do they work any better than the MSA bar to justify the extra $100?? Thanks, Marty

Another option for you is to use the PU bushings mounted on the front of the TC rod and the rubber bushings on the rear of the TC rod. This would eliminate the problem of the TC rod breaking, as has been reported when using PU bushings front and rear. You will still need the washers though. Marty

Yeah, that baby sounds great! I love an L-6 at full howl, especially with tripples. Nice driving too! How much HP is that thing putting out? Marty

Check this website: Race, performance & street cars, engines, engine parts, trailers for sale It has the largest number of trailers for sale out of any site that I know of. Good luck. Marty

Alan, Thanks for the very detailed response. It is really fun to see the thinking and details that went into these cars. I would love to see one in person some day. However that would be highly unlikely. It seems a little odd that they would not put any type of air filter over the carbs. Weren't they concerned about sucking dirt into the engine? Marty

I am also anxious to see what you scored. Just so no one misses it when you put the list in the classifieds, notify this post also when it is available.

It's beautiful! Doesn't even look like it needs to be refreshed. I didn't notice any badging that identifies it as an "R" model. Is there anything on the car that identifies it, or do you just need to know what to look for? Marty

You can still buy replacement panels from Nissan. However, they are only available through Canadian Nissan Dealers. I never understood why U.S. Dealers can't order them. Marty

Arlington Heights, IL On Sunday December 7, 2012 I was driving my buddy's newly acquired, race prepped Miata on a test drive, eastbound on Lake Cook Road. I caught a quick glimpse of a 919 yellow Fairlady Z going westbound. It looked to be in pretty decent condition. That was a totally rare sighting on many counts. 1) You don't see any early Z Cars on the road around here, except at car shows; 2) NOBODY around here that actually has an early Z drives them in December. It was a great 55 degree day though. and 3) I have never seen a Fairlady Z on the road in the Chicago area EVER!! It was a pretty cool site to see. I would definitely like to know who owns it and see it again up close and personal. If you own it, send me a PM. Marty Marty

I have not run that exact size, but I did run RA1's in 225/50/15 on zero offset Rewinds with no rubbing. It also depends on if you have the stock front valance or an air dam on the front. If you have an air dam, it should be no problem. If you have the stock valance, you may have to roll the front lip of the fender a little bit. RA1's are a great track tire. I would not run on the street though. They have a 140 tread wear rating and the street would wear them out in no time at all. Hope that helps. Marty

That's cool. I thought putting it back to stock would be pretty tuff to do, but thought he might want to with such a low VIN car. Marty

Whatever happened to the 2 Z's that were used for North American testing? I believe they were shipped back to Japan for evaluation after the test. Wonder what happened to them after that? Marty

Absolutely stunning!!! Congrats Jerry, she turned out beautiful. Any idea what Les plans to do with the #29 car? Marty

I am with conedodger. I quit entering car shows. Oh, my car won plenty of awards and even a couple of Best in Shows. It is very stock (maybe 3-4 not totally stock parts on it) and nicely detailed engine bay. The last show I entered, first place was given to a two-tone brown 240Z, with tons of aftermarket parts, and the engine bay that looked like a circus. The fuel rail and the manifold and various other parts were painted blue and red (and I am not talking about aeroquip hoses either). It was then that I realized that these local shows were very political. They vote for their buddies more than for a deserving car. Two people who were attending said that I had the nicest car there and were stunned to learn that I didn't even place in the show. That's when I decided all of the money and time and fretting over every paint chip just was not worth it to get a plastic trophy. I started putting on more and more improvements like electronic ignition, grippy steering wheel, etc. and I enjoy driving the car a whole lot more. Anytime there is a choice between going to the race track or a car show, the track wins every time, hands down. Zeddy, you already have the right answer. Modify your car the way that makes you happy and drive the hell out of it at the Texas Rally!! And if you want to go to a car show for some good car conversation, go for it, but don't bother paying an entry fee. Well that my 2 cents worth anyway. Marty

I have relatively new Nissan wires on my car. Recently, I switched to a ZX Distributor and MSD Blaster II coil. I was wondering if the sotck wires are adequate, or should I upgrade to something else? Marty

Hey Rich, How do you do in the show? Marty

Are you using the stock brake hoses? If yes, replace them with stainless steel braided hoses. They will also help get a firmer pedal. Make sure the brake pedal itself is adjusted to the correct height. Is the reaction disc in the booster in place? Just some additional thoughts I had. You can get these old brakes to perform very well. The pedal on my track car was quite firm. It had Toyota 4x4 calipers, with 300 Zx vented rotors, braided lines and Axxis Ultimate pads. That thing would throw you through the windshield if you weren't harnessed in. and that was with the stock rear shoes. Keep working on it, you'll get there.

Did you have any luck firming up your brakes? Marty

You can also stick a couple 0f 2x10's, about three feet long under the ramps, to help cut down the angle even more. Marty

Try this: If you still have a spongy pedal, try this trick that a racer taught me a long time ago. Bleed the rears properly first. Then on the right front caliper, remove the outside brake pad. Use some padded channel lock pliers and press the piston carefully into the caliper. It will travel farther than with the pad installed. BE very carelful when you push the pedal down, that you don't push the piston out past the seal. Do that a couple times till you get all the bubbles out. Replace the outer pad. Then remove the inner pad and repeat the process. Then move onto the drivers side and repeat. Every time I would put new calipers on my race car, I could never get a firm pedal until I did this extra step. After doing it once, it was bleeding as usual. I don't know why the rears would still have air in them, unless you have them on the wrong side? Don't know if that is even possible. Good luck, Marty

So, how did you manage to get an invite to see the hanger?

Thanks for the reply Wade, but I picked one up some time ago.

My yellow track car had the quick steering knuckles, and they made a big difference. I liked them a lot. The car was maybe an inch or so lowered and I did not use the bump steer spacers. I did not notice any ill effects from that. As far as the poly bushings for the TC rod, I would recommend what I did. Put a polly bushing in the front to retain stiffness. Put a stock rubber bushing on the back side of the TC Rod where the hex nut goes on. This will also help to prevent the TC Rod from breaking, as has been reported when using the polly bushings at both ends. Marty